The Zam Barrett Thread

[uzairh]

There is nothing original with what he does. Taking designs/cuts that got a lot of rep on SZ and re-hashing is all I have seen (Overlock, Siamese belt, etc).

The same ethos are eschewed with prejudice on SZ, but when ZB does it, 'great work' and applause follows?!? Is it because his buddy Rabkin runs the place?

Sure, great work will trickle down onto others (like overlock stitching) and that just validates my original point. Just re-hashed and derivative.

Look at his 1-B blazer and the one from Devoa. Looks like a rip off to me.

I am intrigued by your comment about Devoa and CCP. Care to show and example of Daisuke ripping-off Carol?

 

[sinnedk]

I wouldn't say that its not original. Really what is original these days?

Z is inspired but what he likes and it is his interpretation. For example, his pants are diff from Devoa/CCP and so are his leather jackets. Maybe similar in style.

The blazers i can see similarities in but its a blazer, really not much to innovate.

I would say clothing is dependent on 3 things the aesthetic/look, the cut and the quality. ZB got all 3 and has a niche cut that allows people to wear this type of aesthetic who otherwise wouldn't be able to. (Zam cuts clothing according to his body). Seriously, Julius, Devoa, Attachment are made for Asian body types which are hard to fit for others. I am pretty thin but not that thin and ZB offers things that would fit me.

 

[BillKillgore]

It's kind of amusing to see grown men worry about originality and plagiarism in a world populated by around 7 billion people.

 

[Caveat]

Yeah, I think some people on here look at fashion as something to study and appreciate and I can see their POV. For me, I couldn't care less who designs my clothes or where they got their ideas. I only care that I look cool.

 

[sinnedk]

just having a discussion fellas...

 

[onijo84]

Reminds me of the days nicolo ceschi berrini got slammed for 'copying' ccp iirc. eg. Overlock stitching, curved elongated jacket sleeves etc.

 

[brad-t]

The problem with Zam's designs isn't that he takes an element someone else popularized and runs with it (e.g. overlock), it's that all of his designs are literally amalgamations of other people's work. There's very little inventiveness or evolution there.

I find most of his stuff to be pretty awkward looking, personally. That leather jacket is just terrible. The lapelless jackets are nice, but as stated the Devoa is nicer.

 

[nahneun]



It's kind of amusing to see grown men worry about originality and plagiarism in a world populated by around 7 billion people.

I find it amusing that you don't think intellectual property is worth defending (at least to a certain extent).

 

[sinnedk]



The problem with Zam's designs isn't that he takes an element someone else popularized and runs with it (e.g. overlock), it's that all of his designs are literally amalgamations of other people's work. There's very little inventiveness or evolution there.

I find most of his stuff to be pretty awkward looking, personally. That leather jacket is just terrible. The lapelless jackets are nice, but as stated the Devoa is nicer.

he has some hits and misses, i like his pants/jeans/leather jackets a lot

 

[BillKillgore]



I find it amusing that you don't think intellectual property is worth defending (at least to a certain extent).

For all I know some bushman probably invented overlock stitching by accident, clear rip-off.

 

[Zamb]

Good evening to everyone.
I stumbled across this thread awhile back and I do read it on occasion when I have a chance, even though I dont post here
I was kinda hoping to keep it that way because once you get into the mix of things, it alters the reality as people have a tendency of not speaking their honest opinions for fear that you might see it and I do like to know what people really think rather than what they say which is often different.

I am kind of spoiling some of the fun now by no longer remaining anonymous and making a post here. However I promise not to post much as i'm often busy and will be busier as time goes by While I do read here and like the forums, they can take away time from doing meaningful work and that is always my focus so i try to limit that as much as i can in order to remain productive

I want to thank everyone for their comments, whether they be good, bad, responsible, irresponsible or anywhere in between.


I know by now that uzairh has some kind of beef with me of which I do not understand, but as a human being I love you anyways. I wish you nothing but the best in life and hope that whatever your problem is with me you would let it go and not seize every opportunity you get to say something negative about me and my work. You yourself are a person too and it would be a rather nice thing if you would consider how you want to be treated when you are dealing with others......And yes, Rabkin is my friend, been my friend before he started SZ, as I have been a designer long before SZ existed and before you knew about my work or CCP or any of the brands you and others accuse me of copying.


I am not here to change opinions, as I have learned from experience that people believe whatever it is they want, until reality forces them to accept otherwise.


However, lets take the issue of copying or "being inspired by" for a second.

As I have said before and I say again, my two favorite and most revered designers are not designers working in this narrow niche for which many seems to believe fashion begins and ends

one of them is retired a while ago and the other doesn't even do menswear. They are Azzedine Alaia and Richard Tyler. Two of the greatest living technicians to have worked in fashion and that is primarily where my focus is as a designer. in the construction of the clothes

Yes I like CCP, and will readily admit that like many other designers I borrow the use of overlock stitching from him. All references to his work begins and ends there. Nothing else. I borrow nothing from no one, nor do I have any interest to, I have my own interests, my own philosophy of working and my own ideas. I am a strong believer in what I do and I am confident and patient enough that it will connect with those who can see beyond the hype and look at the clothing themselves for what they are. Those who have come to my studio here in NY can testify to the fact that I have no images of anything from anyone here. no garments from other designers, nothing. I work on my own time table, with my own production facilities that I have built myself, My own staff that i have trained doing my own research and having one of the truest Artisanal design studios existing today. All our garments are made here at Zfactorie where we develop our own fabric treatments, our own dyeing techniques and our own methods of creating the work. all our patterns are made here, everything.
The accusation of copying are irresponsible at best, and mean spirited at worst.


Where are the examples? why not present them? so that we can all see who or what have I copied........ I have asked for this before and those who have made these irresponsible statements are incapable of bringing a single example to the fore. The truth of the matter is...... they cant...... because there is none. None at all and I can say that without reservation. for someone like Brad T or the others making irresponsible accusations, lets see you present, from over 7 seasons of collections and hundreds of products, a single copy that I have done of some other designers work. Just one will suffice.

Yes my work may be similar to that of other designers, but every other designers' work is similar to another, so there is nothing special about that. There is a complete difference between something being similar as opposed to something being a copy of. I am sure you fine gentlemen are all intelligent enough to know the difference


Take for example this Shawl Collar Blazer, does it bear similarities to the Devoa, Yes. is it a copy, absolutely not. anyone could argue the Devoa is better as that is a matter of opinion and personal liking. but anyone who knows anything about making clothing that have seen these two jackets in person would need their head examined if they said any one was a copy of the other.

The cut of the two Jackets are completely different. My jacket has no shoulder padding at all, The Devoa is a very structured Jacket. My jacket has vertical **** pockets built into the side panels the Devoa jacket has horizontal welt pockets. My jacket has a concealed welt buttonhole, a technique we developed here at Zfacotrie that I can guarantee does not exist anywhere else on any garments.
there are so many more differences I could give, but I will spare you all that. the only thing my Jacket has in common with the Devoa is the fact that they are both jackets without lapels and there is nothing wrong with that.

I invite you to take a closer look at the work, preferably in person if you can before making conclusions because in honesty, we do not take the greatest pictures of the stuff....if you do that and you think it sucks, then fine, but dont stand afar and look at a few images and form conclusions about things you dont know

Also, this isn't the first season we have done this Jacket, this is a jacket we do in different fabrics for five seasons running now It can be seen here from three seasons ago in boiled cotton:

https://www.ink-clothing.com/en/detail/Zam-Barrett/SPRING-SUMMER-2012/id=777

As I said, bring me meaningful examples of stuff then we can have a discussion. if not, just say you hate my work, or you dont think its for you or something like that and its all good. However to say someone is copying something when there is absolutely no example of this to be given is irresponsible.

Anyways,
it not that serious man, whoever started this thread and to all those who participate i appreciate it all. Even the not so kind statements are continuing the discussion of our work and that's all we can ask for because the world owes us nothing.

thanks to all
Blessings
ZB

 

[hendrix]



I find it amusing that you don't think intellectual property is worth defending (at least to a certain extent).

IP laws do not and should not exist in fashion.

TBH I do not see anything morally reprehensible about completely ripping off clothing.

 

[grizzlybear]



Where are the examples?  why not present them? so that we can all see who or what have I copied........ I have asked for this before and those who have made these irresponsible statements  are incapable of bringing a single example to the fore.  The truth of the matter is...... they cant...... because there is none. None at all and I can say that without reservation. for someone like Brad T or the others making irresponsible accusations, lets see you present, from over 7 seasons of collections and hundreds of products, a single copy that I have done of some other designers work. Just one will suffice.





 

Finally someone tells Brad to GTFO.

 

[sinnedk]



Finally someone tells Brad to GTFO.

yea the designer!

 

[uzairh]

I anticipated you would show up... Welcome to the dialog!

Firstly, I want you to know that there are many folks, including ones from SZ, who say the same when I have met them in person. They don't say so online and we all know why.

Here is an example: Siamese belt. And I mean copy, not replica. Sure, double buckle belts have been done by many others, even before CCP, but the CCP influence is clearly visible. It won't be a surprise if you owned/used a CCP double buckle belt before.

Frankly, I am not looking to get in an item by item discussion with you, so I will leave it at that.

I have seen your stuff in person and I stand by my original statements. Next time I am in Brooklyn, I am open to coming to your workshop and discussing in a civil way if you are inclined to. I would love to have my opinion changed!