The WAYWT Discussion Thread

[BreezyBirch]

snowing, not graining

 

[Metlin]

Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren

I have crazy long legs. And actually, they're herringbone pants. And the shoes are blue. But I think you're probably still right about the tones being too close. Here's a detail:

I like the material of those pants. Although from your original picture, they looked a bit tight and had too much break. /MC opinion

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by thekunk07

Suit doesn't fit. Jacket is too tight and is too short. Plus, the sleeves need to be shortened. AND FOR CHRISSAKE, UNBUTTON THE BOTTOM BUTTON!!!! Just my two cents after you called everyone fat in the MC thread.

 

[jet]

kunk will crush you

 

[DLester]

kunky looks great.

this MC thing is like having a crazy uncle visit for a weekend.

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by jrd617

Just my two cents after you called everyone fat in the MC thread.

Originally Posted by DLester

this MC thing is like having a crazy uncle visit for a weekend.

i really wish feedback would not be about mc trying to retaliate against sw&d or vice versa. kunk's fit could use some work - and it has nothing to do with the comments he made or may have made against MCers. i dont think i even saw his comments.

 

[ahjota]

I think the bottom button is fine in Kunk's fit.

And I say this always leaving te bottom button on my suits open.

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by ahjota

I think the bottom button is fine in Kunk's fit.

And I say this always leaving te bottom button on my suits open.

Some insight on the topic (not my write-up, but agree 100%):
The tradition of leaving the bottom button of a coat undone started as a fashion choice. Coats are designed to flare away at the bottom, since the hips are (generally) broader than the waist, where a coat should be fastened. Modern suits are all cut with this in mind, and thus the bottom button should never be used, as it throws off the tailoring of the suit, turning a man's silhouette into a cylinder.

Ideally, three-button suits aren't supposed to have the top button fastened, either; leaving it undone balances the look and permits the lapel to roll closer to the waist, where it should be. In fact, the two-button suit takes care of this nicely by removing the offending button altogether. It is possible, if inadvisable, to button the top button without violating fashion rules.

There are a few exceptions. The bottom button on some double-breasted jacket is buttoned. There is also a type of custom jacket called a "paddock coat," where the placement of the buttons is altered and both are buttoned. John F. Kennedy was known to wear such a jacket.

The custom of leaving the bottom button on a waistcoat ('vest," in American English) undone comes from the early 20th century. King Edward VII was too rotund to fasten his bottom button and the custom came from his imitators.

 

[thekunk07]

sorry it doesn't fit like a sack and you're supposed to button both on jil sander suits and you aren't supposed to see cuff

Originally Posted by jrd617

Suit doesn't fit. Jacket is too tight and is too short. Plus, the sleeves need to be shortened. AND FOR CHRISSAKE, UNBUTTON THE BOTTOM BUTTON!!!! Just my two cents after you called everyone fat in the MC thread.

 

[KitAkira]

Originally Posted by ahjota

I think the bottom button is fine in Kunk's fit. And I say this always leaving te bottom button on my suits open.
I actually would lean towards agreeing with this, given the high button points on some of Jil's suits, if you don't button the bottom it throws off the look a ton.

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by thekunk07

sorry it doesn't fit like a sack and you're supposed to button both on jil sander suits and you aren't supposed to see cuff

who said it was supposed to fit like a sack? i actually complemented you for the waist suppression/shaping (which is the opposite of fitting like a sack).

care to share the provenance of the jil sander rules on not showing cuff and buttoning the lower button? first time i'm hearing this ... and i have followed the JS aesthetic for a fair while.

 

[thekunk07]

the raf simons jil sander suits are meant to remained buttoned and actually have sleeves that cover cuffs, he spoke about this in a protracted article on tailoring a while ago. will dig it up...

 

[altemp]

nvm kunk answered

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by thekunk07

the raf simons jil sander suits are meant to remained buttoned and actually have sleeves that cover cuffs, he spoke about this in a protracted article on tailoring a while ago. will dig it up...

interesting. a suit is still a suit right? whether its done by JS or Corneliani. I guess we can just agree to disagree.

The moral of the story being - MC and SW&D have different rules/aesthetics ... and its important to be tolerant of the stylistic choices of each group when they try to cross over.

 

[KitAkira]

Originally Posted by niidawg3

interesting. a suit is still a suit right? whether its done by JS or Corneliani. I guess we can just agree to disagree. The moral of the story being - MC and SW&D have different rules/aesthetics ... and its important to be tolerant of the stylistic choices of each group when they try to cross over.
But you said that most suits are tailored with an undone lower button in mind, what's to stop Raf from tailoring his suits with a full buttoning in mind? Different intended silhouettes