The Way They Wore: Images from the Past

[Spinster Jones]

Another writer, Jack London.

I've previously asked about the first picture and its "tie". Sam Hober commented that it looks like a Victorian-era one, but I've had a hard time finding other examples of it. The others are more classic vintage or western-inspired ones.

I like it's flamboyance. Could probably bring a nice pop to muted suits. Sort of like wearing a silk pocket square. Probably easier worn with more classic tailoring, with a high buttonstance. Would also think it would work with more western-inspired outfits - but then it should maybe be in cotton, à la cotton neckerchiefs?

 

[TomTom]

Catching up on this thread.
Re knit ties - despite the Connery Bond / Fleming Bond connections, outside of a funeral I can’t think of a scenario wherein a navy or dark blue tie would not look better than black. I mentioned recently recalling a pic posted by Vox in blue and white striped seersucker suit, straw boater under his arm, wearing a black knit tie that just seemed so incongruous and harsh against the sunny background and otherwise spring-like clothes. (Can’t remember if he wore black shoes!)

I’m also an outspoken proponent of the ‘hard three’. Like anything else, done poorly it looks crap but done well it’s the ne plus ultra of suit / jacket styles IMO.

And just to contradict myself as none of the following are hard threes - here are my favourite suity pics from the world of cinema …

View attachment 1769352
Cary Grant in a ventless 3 roll 2 (1959 - note the roll and the absence of an ugly button hole buggering up the lower lapel!)

View attachment 1769354
Sean Connery in a ventless 2B (1965 - I think the tie is navy not black!)

View attachment 1769356
Michael Caine in a 3 roll 2.5 (1969 - I have some jackets cut similarly to this which I can choose to wear as a hard three. Despite my personal preference I do like the symmetry of the way MC wears this with the middle button only closed.

I had that Michael Caine suit made as a Specials Order by Mason and Sons..the only difference is mine has cuffs..Such a classic and flattering look and the lapel really does roll beautifully.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

I've previously asked about the first picture and its "tie". Sam Hober commented that it looks like a Victorian-era one, but I've had a hard time finding other examples of it. The others are more classic vintage or western-inspired ones.

Jack London's tie is so called scarf tie.

You can find some short information about it here:
https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/history-1920s-neckties/

 

[Spinster Jones]

Jack London's tie is so called scarf tie.

Well, that just makes perfect sense.

If anyone finds any pictures of it being worn, please share.

 

[Thin White Duke]

I had that Michael Caine suit made as a Specials Order by Mason and Sons..the only difference is mine has cuffs..Such a classic and flattering look and the lapel really does roll beautifully.

Excellent - would love to see pics!

 

[schraiber]

Going through a lot of the pics here I find myself really noticing how much I don't like the wide, straight pants worn by most of these men. Not to say that they should be wearing skinny pants or anything like that, but that's just not how a leg looks. I think it creates a weird, unnatural silhouette. Instead of enhancing the natural shape of the human body, it seems to be trying to hide it. I think even just a little bit of a taper helps so much, because then you look like a human and not a robot

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Going through a lot of the pics here I find myself really noticing how much I don't like the wide, straight pants worn by most of these men. Not to say that they should be wearing skinny pants or anything like that, but that's just not how a leg looks. I think it creates a weird, unnatural silhouette. Instead of enhancing the natural shape of the human body, it seems to be trying to hide it. I think even just a little bit of a taper helps so much, because then you look like a human and not a robot

This seems a strange critique to me, because any trouser that isn't form-fitting or skin-tight is going to 'hide' the natural shape of the human leg.

That certainly used to be the way of things before the C19th (in Europe and North Ameirca at least). But ever since then we've gone for varying degrees of hiding the natural shape of legs in menswear, except when it comes to athletic wear and the brief trend for jeggings.

 

[schraiber]

This seems a strange critique to me, because any trouser that isn't form-fitting or skin-tight is going to 'hide' the natural shape of the human leg.

That certainly use to be the way of things before the C19th (in Europe and North Ameirca at least). But ever since then we've gone for varying degrees of hiding the natural shape of legs in menswear, except when it comes to athletic wear and the brief trend for jeggings.

Yeah obviously anything that's not skin tight hides the shape! But there are degrees, and I feel like the totally straight box leg is just so unflattering. I also think it doesn't create a coherent silhouette with a structured jacket, that DOES emphasize (indeed exaggerate) the natural shape of the torso, i.e. the V.

 

[Leiker]

It's tough to find quality images of the stuff outside of "The Honeymooner's", or him pulling a silly face, but Jackie Gleason was spot on for examples of clothes on a big frame. The suit in "The Hustler" is ubiquitous for how to wear a three piece, but here are some others I really like.

Tweed:
View attachment 1769846


*I keep finding and adding more

Really love this one. The jacket, that tie and the cufflinks, it all comes together.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Yeah obviously anything that's not skin tight hides the shape! But there are degrees, and I feel like the totally straight box leg is just so unflattering. I also think it doesn't create a coherent silhouette with a structured jacket, that DOES emphasize (indeed exaggerate) the natural shape of the torso, i.e. the V.

We've had this discussion here many times before. Just take a look at this picture of former French President, Francois Hollande, meeting the impeccably dressed former Japanese Emperor Akihito:

Just ask yourself - who looks better here? The slim / tapered-trousered Hollande, or the classically full-trousered Akihito?

 

[schraiber]

We've had this discussion here many times before. Just take a look at this picture of former French President, Francois Hollande, meeting the impeccably dressed former Japanese Emperor Akihito:

Just ask yourself - who looks better here? The slim / tapered-trousered Hollande, or the classically full-trousered Akihito?

Eh it's really a wash for me. Hollande is a bit too slim, and Akihito is too boxy. I think this video from The Armoury is pretty close to how I think tailored trousers should fit. Tapered, but with enough width that they produce clean, draped lines

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Eh it's really a wash for me. Hollande is a bit too slim, and Akihito is too boxy.

I simply don't understand this. Obviously, Hollande's trousers are too slim - he looks like an egg on stilts. But Hirohito's proportions and silhouette are perfect. Perfect. I won't have it any other way. It totally gives the lie to the idea that short men should go for slimmer trousers. It helps that he had one of best tailors in the world of course...

Now, I don't agree with all of DWW's historicism, but it seems to be that in terms of coherence in CM, you can't really do better than this. Any deviation to make it 'better' is really going to fail and move away from what makes CM, classic. It might stll be good, but it will be something else...

The Armoury boys are #menswear. That's fine - they are the best at what they do. But the trousers they wear would look ridiculous on Akihito, and in that kind of outfit. Akihito would end up looking more like Hollande.

 

[Spinster Jones]

I think another interesting outlook is looking at the women in the photo. Both have well fitting skirts. Fits with their widths, and they both create strength.

Compare Hollande's wife to him. Would be just as weird had she worn a pencil tight skirt.

 

[Sir Jack II]

I simply don't understand this. Obviously, Hollande's trousers are too slim - he looks like an egg on stilts. But Hirohito's proportions and silhouette are perfect. Perfect. I won't have it any other way. It totally gives the lie to the idea that short men should go for slimmer trousers. It helps that he had one of best tailors in the world of course...

Now, I don't agree with all of DWW's historicism, but it seems to be that in terms of coherence in CM, you can't really do better than this. Any deviation to make it 'better' is really going to fail and move away from what makes CM, classic. It might stll be good, but it will be something else...

The Armoury boys are #menswear. That's fine - they are the best at what they do. But the trousers they wear would look ridiculous on Akihito, and in that kind of outfit. Akihito would end up looking more like Hollande.

But this is an egregious mis-fit on Hollande's part. Anyone can see that his outfit does not fit his body. I think Akihito looks pretty sharp here, but I don't think this fit is the be-all-end-all of CM. I don't fully like the way his pants kind of flood his shoes, for example.

I'm curious what you think of Kim Jung-on's silhouette?

 

[Spinster Jones]