The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Loren the Time Bum reviews the Millésime Merveilleux...

http://www.thetimebum.com/2018/10/millesime-merveilleux_20.html

 

[brax]

Other than my Expolore II which I use for everyday casual wear, I have owned this watch the longest which I use for international travel. It has taken a beating and is on its third band but still working great. We took a ten hour flight tonight but only had to adjust the time by one hour.

 

[Medwed]

I am looking for a dark dial (not busy) 3-subdials chronograph in manageable size of under 42mm with screw-down pushers.
I have seen Bell & Ross and like it very much aside from the fact that it is only 2-dial chronograph.
I have seen various Zeniths and Zodiacs (sounds to me almost the same)- too blah and busy on the dial.
Tudor Tiger is close to what I want but too much is happening on the dial of that watch.
If I could put an hour sub-dial on Bell & Ross that would be a perfect watch for me.
Please suggest if you could think of some other brand/model I should be looking at?

 

[LA Guy]

I am looking for a dark dial (not busy) 3-subdials chronograph in manageable size of under 42mm with screw-down pushers.
I have seen Bell & Ross and like it very much aside from the fact that it is only 2-dial chronograph.
I have seen various Zeniths and Zodiacs (sounds to me almost the same)- too blah and busy on the dial.
Tudor Tiger is close to what I want but too much is happening on the dial of that watch.
If I could put an hour sub-dial on Bell & Ross that would be a perfect watch for me.
Please suggest if you could think of some other brand/model I should be looking at?

Which Bell and Ross is this? There are some decent Bell&Ross three subdial chronos as well, iirc.

 

[Omega Male]

Lange 414.032 incoming. Has taken a good while to locate. Hope I like it as much in person as in pictures!

 

[Medwed]

Which Bell and Ross is this? There are some decent Bell&Ross three subdial chronos as well, iirc.

It is this one. Are there any 3 subdial chronographs with manual winding? I know everyone uses the same ETA movement but wouldn't it be easy to modify it and remove the rotor and make the watch 3mm thinner? I guess autmatic on the dial makes signals VALUE, so this trend will never die...

P.S.What is the point of writing CHRONOGRAPH on the dial of the watch if everyone can see it is one. I wish NO BADGE option become available just like for German cars in EU.

P.P.S. If I could mod this watch I would replace 30 sec useless totalizer with 12 hour counter and get rid of all writing on the dial except for B & R.

 

[LA Guy]

It is this one. Are there any 3 subdial chronographs with manual winding? I know everyone uses the same ETA movement but wouldn't it be easy to modify it and remove the rotor and make the watch 3mm thinner? I guess autmatic on the dial makes signals VALUE, so this trend will never die...

P.S.What is the point of writing CHRONOGRAPH on the dial of the watch if everyone can see it is one. I wish NO BADGE option become available just like for German cars in EU.

P.P.S. If I could mod this watch I would replace 30 sec useless totalizer with 12 hour counter and get rid of all writing on the dial except for B & R.
View attachment 1059218

Pretty much all the Speedmaster Pros are hand wind chronos, afaik.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

I hear you. I just don't love the normal Speedy Pros. To me, they are boring, though at least honest. This one just jumped out at me.

Though I am not a huge Omega fan, I do appreciate the clunkiness of some of their offerings, especially the limited editions. At least it's something interesting to look at. For example, I am amused by this, "Franklin Mint x Omega" looking watch:

I mean, all of the subdials are basically useless, and it's actually hard to read the time (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Spee...wsClbeE33:sc:UPS2ndDay!83843!US!-1:rk:10:pf:0 - from Swiss Watch Expo)

Or this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Spee...SwYHtbpqNg:sc:UPS2ndDay!83843!US!-1:rk:6:pf:0

To me, the clunkiness of some of these designs are endearing. While I don't have the cash to buy a bunch of watches just because they are endearing and silly, they appeal to me a lot more than umpteenth models by "microbrands" who seem to all share the same "I was conceived in a tech incubator somewhere in San Franciscio" look.

What do you think about the size of the Speedy Pro vs. the Speedy reduced on the wrist? There is another example of someone at Omega being really bad at marketing. They could have easily called the thing the "Speedmaster 40" or something. "Reduced" is generally not a great selling point. That said, I really do appreciate that level of clunkiness and maybe inadvertent honesty, once again.

I didn't like the Speedmaster when I first started getting into watches. Now I love it. I still don't own a Speedy Pro as they're generally easy to get, but I do like it. That said it's got a certain aesthetic that may or may not work for someone depending on how they want to wear it.

I don't know if I'd call a Speedmaster "clunky", but most of them in my experience definitely have more of a "vintage" feel if that's the way to put it. It really depends on the reference. Sure they make a lot of limited editions, but there is a lot of variation out there. I think that at the moment they're starting to make too many of them (a general criticism that in the past I'd to an extent disagree with), but so long as they get one right then I see no problem with it. The two you showed not being examples of "getting it right", but that of course is subjective.

If you want a smaller Speedmaster I'd look at some of the more recent releases instead of a Speedmaster reduced:

• First Omega in Space: You should still be able to get one near 40% off msrp as it was a numbered edition and not a limited edition. It definitely doesn't look or feel clunky in the metal. Sapphire crystal and the hand set in particular help make it look more polished. If you add the right strap (the version of an Omega strap that comes with it isn't that great anyway) it could even look pretty dressy for a chronograph (straps can really change the look of a piece). It's just below 40mm and wears slightly smaller than a Speedy Pro, but it's still somewhat thick. I don't think it wears thick at all as I can get it under all of my shirt cuffs. The dial looks similar to a Speedy Pro, but the case is different largely down to the lugs.
• 60th Anniversary Speedmaster: This one is even slightly smaller still. It's a fantastic reproduction that in my experience plenty of vintage owners even like. Silver bezel color changes the look quite a bit as does the broad arrow hand and overall hand set. It does have the faux aged looking lume, but with the overall finishing it looks quite new.
• CK 2998: The blue version as I'm not a fan of the 2018 Basel release. Totally different look with the panda dial, blue tones, ceramic dial and lollipop chronograph seconds hand. Case size is the same as the First Omega in Space. It comes on what I looks like one of the nice Omega straps.

I'd say the reduced is fine from a size perspective, but the dial layout isn't very good if you ask me. In fact I've never been a big fan of any of the Speedy reduced models they did, but I have to say the engraving work on this one makes me smile and it's a nice alternative to the out of this atmosphere Snoopy release:

It is this one. Are there any 3 subdial chronographs with manual winding? I know everyone uses the same ETA movement but wouldn't it be easy to modify it and remove the rotor and make the watch 3mm thinner? I guess autmatic on the dial makes signals VALUE, so this trend will never die...

P.S.What is the point of writing CHRONOGRAPH on the dial of the watch if everyone can see it is one. I wish NO BADGE option become available just like for German cars in EU.

P.P.S. If I could mod this watch I would replace 30 sec useless totalizer with 12 hour counter and get rid of all writing on the dial except for B & R.
View attachment 1059218

The biggest thing that would bug me about that piece is the date window. I've grown to accept some date windows, but can't think of any watches that have them at that four to five range that I like.

I can't think of any watch that meets what you're looking for, but looking at the Bell & Ross makes me think of a Speedmaster.

 

[LA Guy]

I didn't like the Speedmaster when I first started getting into watches. Now I love it. I still don't own a Speedy Pro as they're generally easy to get, but I do like it. That said it's got a certain aesthetic that may or may not work for someone depending on how they want to wear it.

I don't know if I'd call a Speedmaster "clunky", but most of them in my experience definitely have more of a "vintage" feel if that's the way to put it. It really depends on the reference. Sure they make a lot of limited editions, but there is a lot of variation out there. I think that at the moment they're starting to make too many of them (a general criticism that in the past I'd to an extent disagree with), but so long as they get one right then I see no problem with it. The two you showed not being examples of "getting it right", but that of course is subjective.

If you want a smaller Speedmaster I'd look at some of the more recent releases instead of a Speedmaster reduced:

• First Omega in Space: You should still be able to get one near 40% off msrp as it was a numbered edition and not a limited edition. It definitely doesn't look or feel clunky in the metal. Sapphire crystal and the hand set in particular help make it look more polished. If you add the right strap (the version of an Omega strap that comes with it isn't that great anyway) it could even look pretty dressy for a chronograph (straps can really change the look of a piece). It's just below 40mm and wears slightly smaller than a Speedy Pro, but it's still somewhat thick. I don't think it wears thick at all as I can get it under all of my shirt cuffs. The dial looks similar to a Speedy Pro, but the case is different largely down to the lugs.
• 60th Anniversary Speedmaster: This one is even slightly smaller still. It's a fantastic reproduction that in my experience plenty of vintage owners even like. Silver bezel color changes the look quite a bit as does the broad arrow hand and overall hand set. It does have the faux aged looking lume, but with the overall finishing it looks quite new.
• CK 2998: The blue version as I'm not a fan of the 2018 Basel release. Totally different look with the panda dial, blue tones, ceramic dial and lollipop chronograph seconds hand. Case size is the same as the First Omega in Space. It comes on what I looks like one of the nice Omega straps.

I'd say the reduced is fine from a size perspective, but the dial layout isn't very good if you ask me. In fact I've never been a big fan of any of the Speedy reduced models they did, but I have to say the engraving work on this one makes me smile and it's a nice alternative to the out of this atmosphere Snoopy release:

The biggest thing that would bug me about that piece is the date window. I've grown to accept some date windows, but can't think of any watches that have them at that four to five range that I like.

I can't think of any watch that meets what you're looking for, but looking at the Bell & Ross makes me think of a Speedmaster.

Thanks for that detailed reply. I think that I can understand what you are talking about for the Speedmaster reduced subdials, but it seems like a lot of the Japanese only releases that I've been looking at are all the Speedy Automatic, and for me, the color scheme and the details are more important than the very small spacing differences between the subdials, something that I honestly did not notice at all at first.

I discovered that, of the Speedy Pros that I like, that the Apollo 15 35th anniversary actually has a sapphire caseback, which is an immediate no buy for me. I want a nice, solid, case back. So since I want gold subdials and gold or black and gold bezel, it's down to a one of the Japanese releases or the Italian Grail:

This thing seems to be really hard to find, especially in unmodified form, and that, combined with the yellow rather than rose gold bezel and the considerably higher price is making me tend towards the Japanese release. Of course, if I find this at a lower price, I would probably definitely pick it up.

I do like the new 60th anniversary reissue release, the broad arrow Speedmaster (but not the one with the sapphire caseback):

which can be found at pretty decent prices. No gold subdials, which I don't know about right now, but I think that the broad arrow hands are a whole lot more interesting than the sword hands, imo, and give you something interesting to look at.

For me, I want the hesalite crystal, not sapphire.

 

[steveoffice]

pretty sure speedy tuesday is hesalite. if i were to buy a speedy it would be between 60th anniversary speedy and speedy tuesday (not ultraman).

 

[LA Guy]

It is this one. Are there any 3 subdial chronographs with manual winding? I know everyone uses the same ETA movement but wouldn't it be easy to modify it and remove the rotor and make the watch 3mm thinner? I guess autmatic on the dial makes signals VALUE, so this trend will never die...

P.S.What is the point of writing CHRONOGRAPH on the dial of the watch if everyone can see it is one. I wish NO BADGE option become available just like for German cars in EU.

P.P.S. If I could mod this watch I would replace 30 sec useless totalizer with 12 hour counter and get rid of all writing on the dial except for B & R.
View attachment 1059218

Maybe you are look for the Omega Speedmaster FOIS. This one is factory fresh from Chrono24, and it's well priced for that:
https://www.chrono24.com/omega/spee...pace---factory-warranty----new--id7826941.htm

 

[LA Guy]

pretty sure speedy tuesday is hesalite. if i were to buy a speedy it would be between 60th anniversary speedy and speedy tuesday (not ultraman).

Yeah, the Speedy Tuesday is hesalite, but I find it to be ridiculously overpriced considering that it's basically just a Speedy with an engraved caseback and reverse Panda subdials.

 

[Medwed]

I like Speedy 57 the most out of all I have seen. No screw down pushers though, on any of them. May be I should be looking at Fortis Cosmonaut.

View attachment 1059677

 

[Dino944]

May be I should be looking at Fortis Cosmonaut.

Meh...I find the dial busy, the overall appearance somewhat generic, and the bracelet looks cheap...even the clasp and safety latch look like industrial cheap stamped steel.

If I were getting something powered by a Valjoux 7750, I'd either opt for an IWC 3706 on the original "Pyramid style" bracelet (very comfortable and well made), or an old Tudor "Big Block," ...but those vintage Tudors have gone way up in value and may be out of your budget.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Guys, I'm excited to announce that due to popular demand from new clients, I'm in the midst of sketching out a sporty counterpart to the Millésime Majestique that will also use the same ultra-thin Vaucher micro-rotor movement. Renders should be ready soon...

In other news, Millésime was recently featured on Watches by SJX - http://watchesbysjx.com/2018/10/millesime-watches-maison-celadon.html

I must also apologize for the brief introduction at the start of my affiliate thread. The last few weeks have been pretty insane with the fervour surrounding the launch of Millésime and its two models the Majestique and Merveilleux. Once the dust settles shortly, I'll talk more about my first watch brand Maison Celadon which I started 6 years ago, the reasons that drove me to establish it, and the journey we've come so far. I will go in-depth as to the profound historical and cultural connections of our four collections - the Celestial Bespoke, Celestial Silk, Imperial and Yue Fei, and describe the process from initial sketches to the finished watch.

Lastly, I'm really excited to announce here on Styleforum the arrival of our newest Celadon model, the Jade Imperial, which will see our classic Meiping case (I will in an upcoming post talk about why we call this the Meiping case) paired with the newly-improved Celadon-Grade B18 movement, and crowned with a choice of exceptional dials, with the flagship of the collection naturally being jade. This continues the shared lineage of all our Celadon collections - that of dial artistry, whether it's cloisonné enamel, hand-stitched silk embroidery, guilloche or smoked sunburst.

I would love to hear any feedback you may have on this watch, or any features you'd like to see!

And to end off with a wristshot, here's the new Celestial Silk "Bird of Paradise" prototype, featuring a completely hand-stitched silk embroidery dial, hand-stitched strap using the same goatskin Hermes uses, artisanally heat-blued steel hands (done by hand and tweezer rather than in an industrial oven), exceptionally-finished case reminiscent of Chinese meiping vases and pagoda roof eaves, and hand-beveled CG18 movement...