The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

[Marshak]

Are these natural or structured shoulders? Antonio hasn’t been able to completely solve the issue. I took one of my jackets to a local bespoke tailor and he was able to make it better but not solve it completely and thinks it’s because the shoulders may not account for enough slope on the one side and is pushing it up. I haven’t had this issue on my pastena jackets with spalla.

It's currently a basted shoulder aimed to be converted into a spalla cadente. I use his classic (more structured) shoulder with my winter suits and didn't have any problem with it so far.

The only problem I encounter recently is when I asked him more shoulder width (this one is made on the new pattern). He did it but did not enlarge the yoke and the back, hence some tension around the ribs.

 

[Shetterd]

Are these natural or structured shoulders? Antonio hasn’t been able to completely solve the issue. I took one of my jackets to a local bespoke tailor and he was able to make it better but not solve it completely and thinks it’s because the shoulders may not account for enough slope on the one side and is pushing it up. I haven’t had this issue on my pastena jackets with spalla.

Mine are natural. I think the collar might also be a touch low.

 

[xizenta]

What's up with the LP Seersucker?

@Jmr928 @DavidLane @Marshak

All three of you coincidentally happened to decide to make something out of this fabric at the same time? lol

There has to be a story to this?

 

[JohnMRobie]

What's up with the LP Seersucker?

@Jmr928 @DavidLane @Marshak

All three of you coincidentally happened to decide to make something out of this fabric at the same time? lol

There has to be a story to this?

They both did the Drapers I think. I did the LP. I tried to do it last spring but LP was sold out of the cloth. Had to wait for a restock in august. Got my length but had Antonio hang onto the cloth until this spring since I had no use for it until summer.

 

[xizenta]

They both did the Drapers I think. I did the LP. I tried to do it last spring but LP was sold out of the cloth. Had to wait for a restock in august. Got my length but had Antonio hang onto the cloth until this spring since I had no use for it until summer.

They look extremely similar! Maybe they are the same and the LP is rebranded?

 

[JohnMRobie]

They look extremely similar! Maybe they are the same and the LP is rebranded?

Super different actually - Look, weight and fabric composition are all different. I have some side by side pics from me and @DavidLane fittings.

Drapers is wool and I think 270ish grams? LP is wool and silk and 170ish grams.

 

[kylebwells]

Second commission from Antonio is finished. I am happy with how the pattern is coming along. The jacket sits on me better and wraps around my body more naturally. The first jacket he made pulls back.

For this jacket, I asked for the lapels to be reduced by 1cm. I wish I had said .5cm. I also had him lower the gorge slightly, which looks better, IMO.

For this commission I also opted for Neapolitan shoulders. I assumed that would have come with spalla camicia, but I suppose I was wrong and that needs to be specified? At least the sleeve seam doesn't appear to go under the shoulder seam to me. I also would have liked a bit more shirring. At first, one side had a bunch of shirring and the other had none and they were in different places (front on one side and back on the other). I asked him to even it out, but it looks like he mostly removed them.

All in all, I am very happy with the progress, but wished I had been clearer or made a few slightly different choices.

 

[Viatu]

Super different actually - Look, weight and fabric composition are all different. I have some side by side pics from me and @DavidLane fittings.
View attachment 1968141
Drapers is wool and I think 270ish grams? LP is wool and silk and 170ish grams.

Would you by chance have the source code for this Loro Piana seersucker fabric?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Would you by chance have the source code for this Loro Piana seersucker fabric?

Yeah - N704008.

I also have pictures of the two Drapers shades

 

[Viatu]

Yeah - N704008.
View attachment 1969683
I also have pictures of the two Drapers shades
View attachment 1969685 View attachment 1969687

Thank you! Much appreciated.

 

[xizenta]

DB from Pastena in a Mohair, Linen, Silk blend.
😀

 

[xizenta]

Pastena fit.
New Fine Worsted, uncanvassed.
Thanks @Sreezy36 for selling me the length of fabric.

 

[Wilson13]

Some remote fitting pics for a blue Dugdale linen:

 

[xizenta]

That looks great all around!

 

[xizenta]

Update on three works in progress for me.

Two 6x1 DBs:
Walnut Melange FA-16 from Fox Air
Green S160s & 1% cashmere English bolt I have had laying around for about ten years.

Lastly, a single breasted peak lapel, one button, in Ascot 2-ply (brown/grey 18017).

I think he has lowered the gorge very slightly from my last peak lapel, which was also a DB. This may be because I asked him to lower the gorge on my notch lapel jacket pattern. Looks a bit lower than I think I want, but let's see what happens when I get it and try it on. Whatever it is I will live with it because the rest of the details look great.