The Ultimate Toronto Thread

[othertravel]

I absolutely was not shaming anyone. It just seems like everyone here has more money to spend on clothes than me. It's envy and admiration.

it’s admirable you live below your means. That is a virtue, imo. In an era of easy credit, it can be easy to go off the rails spending wise.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I absolutely was not shaming anyone. It just seems like everyone here has more money to spend on clothes than me. It's envy and admiration.

TBH I personally think people should be shamed for their spending decisions. Consumption has a social opportunity cost, and nobody needs 100 pairs of shoes or a $7000 Tom Ford suit.

 

[othertravel]

speaking of outlet shopping,

The winners in Oakville (Dorval) has these two tasteful Zegna ties for $99.

The light blue one in particular is nice.

 

[induere_to]

I'm no financial advisor, nor am I anyone's mother; I don't care where people spend their money. I'm a bespoke tailor's apprentice that wants to learn as much as I can, and upskirting luxury brands is something I find therapeutically stimulating. I can see how other brands make garments, in comparison to the ways I was taught, and by comparing SRP price tags and reputation, I can justify what is preached versus what is practiced. I will always offer to answer questions if there are things I have not been able to properly describe. I've had more messages of intrigue from people that find this series fascinating than the few people that would rather look at a concrete anatomical exhibition as an 'opinion'.

As I've mentioned before, these garments are one of thousands made. Production changes constantly, and these individual items are not reflecting the entire history of a brand. But, I will state that these garments I take apart are not knock-offs; they are garments that have made it through the Quality Control standards by these companies, to be put on a retail sales floor by their labeled companies at full price, and available for purchase to the public. They are not sample garments, as one poster has previously tried to suggest.

I have not paid for any of these items, they are sent to me specifically for research purposes with the agreement that I document what I find here, specifically on StyleForum. I post more video and photographic coverage of what I take a part on Instagram, because the majority of my social media circle of interaction is with other tailors and company owners spread out across the globe; so whatever I post on here is not only what I discover personally, but features insight from other tailors that probably know far more than I do.

If you don't like this series, or feel no level of interest towards it, you can easily scroll past it. You're obviously more than welcome to make purchases as you please, and enjoy the garments you have collected and possess. It's also within your own right to take your own garments apart and document your own discoveries however you please.

--------------

But, for now on to...:

While I was waiting for another package to arrive in the mail, I decided to commence taking apart this Canali. Two of the tailors present while I disassembled this jacket both warned me "you will probably be pleasantly surprised with Canali." From the outside, the jacket felt stiff, though the fabric was spongey and soft. It's a heavy hopsack that flaunts an inside tag that reads 'Travel'. I didn't press the jacket at all, so on the mannequin, it drapes as was, 'fresh out of the box.' Hopsacks and open weave fabrics generally are great for travel-intended garments because they weigh heavier and the yarns are more dense which are less likely to wrinkle.

On the outside, there are very little signs of handwork, being a medium-entry price offering at higher-end retailers, I wasn't expecting to find that much hand detail. The swelled edges are all machine stitched down, buttonholes are all done by machine. Flipping the garment inside out, I was excited to see some hand-closing details.

Though, it's common that the sleeve lining is closed by hand, the sleeves in this jacket didn't show any signs of having ever been altered. The hem at the bottom of the jacket was felled by hand as well, which having machine-stitched edges, they could have easily machine stitched through the hem to close it. This shows that it is not Canali's intention to rush production with a machine, but also that slowing down to seal the bottoms by hand is a quality they'd like to preserve.

Similar to the hem, the facing was also felled by hand to the fronts.

With most brands I have taken apart so far, it's very common to see the sleeve placket machine stitched, but Canali did not only close the sleeve bottoms by hand, but also the placket. To do it via machine just saves a lot of time and does not actually jeopardize the quality.

The sleeve cuff was pleasantly unfused. One tailor present said that he usually charges extra to alter Canali sleeves because they reinforce their cuffs with linen rather than fusing. The sleeves I've altered in the past by Luciano and Attolini are all finished this same way. The Zegna sleeve is uncertain as it had been altered too many times to tell it's original condition and the Cucinelli was completely fused.

Sleeve lining was basted to both seams of the sleeve, prevents shifting and twisting, as mentioned in previous posts.

Inside-out sleeve with exposed sleeve head:

Collar was assembled by machine, as you can see along the edges and the top, however along the bottom of the collar, we can see that it was assembled to the jacket by hand. You can tell if you were to look closely because the machine stitch is a perfectly evened LLLLLLLLLLLLL and by hand is more of an imperfect ll\lll/lll/l\ll. I like to close my collars with a hatch stitch, which I was told is a more flexible means of attaching something that is constantly in movement, however this is constantly contested by many other tailors. Looks more like a XXXXXXXX

Pleasantly, I was shocked to see that Canali didn't use any fusing to reinforce the shoulder at the collar nor behind the shoulder seam rather instead, they use stiff edge tape.

I have not yet found a collar that had been rolled and padded by hand. Usually they're blind-stitched, this one was fused. This picture shows the canvas, without any stitching sturdily attached to the melton.

Shoulder seam is open, with a reinforced tape. I prefer seams closed, because they're stronger but this causes the seam to be raised which may not be an aesthetic preference for many brands.

It's a pretty good-looking pattern overall. Well-maintained shape.

A wedge of lining to conceal the canvas on the inside. Haven't seen that before, but I suppose the intention is to conceal the insides and any possible fraying that may occur to the canvas.

The canvas used is actually extremely lightweight, I was surprised by this because the jacket itself felt so stiff, turning back the facing, the only thing that can take blame for the stiffness could be the stiff layering of pocketing fabric. But as I looked closer to the construction of the canvas, the chest piece was made of horsehair canvas that spread from the button stance and into the armhole. Horsehair I most commonly see spread across the top of the canvas at the shoulder.

As seen with the Zegna, the dart is reinforced with fusing where it zeroes, and an additional strip of fabric reinforces the dart; Sebastian Espinosa kept boasting the fact that he was the one that taught me about this method.

Another additional detail that shocked me about this Canali, is the lack of fusing in the construction of the jacket. Fusing is used on the Zegna at the top of the lapel and throughout the cran, and in the corners of the quarters. Canali didn't have any fusing in these areas... shockingly also was the lack of fusing around the chest pocket. Fusing is used to add more durability where fabric can shift and the fact that this jacket has survived two owners (though I do no know how old it is), it remained in great condition.

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the construction of this Canali jacket, and though it costs less at regular price, I'd argue that the Canali is better made than the E. Zegna jacket that I took apart (even though quality is very similar and each do certain things better or worse than the other). Cananli is mostly assembled by machine, with hand finishing where they could have used fusing and machine to expedite their production. Goes to show that Canali is less interested in fast production but rather in finding a decent balance regarding how they feel things should be made and what their competitors are making and the price they are asking.

As currently sits, the jackets that remain for me to disassemble are:

Kiton.
Brioni.
Isaia.
London House (Rubinacci).

And two others that seem to be stuck somewhere at the US/Canada border.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

These are great. I'm very curious about the Rubinacci.

 

[RapFan]

I guess still being a real Family Business shows in the small details of the Canali.

Interested in the Rubinacci. I have a brown linen unlined sport coat from Rubinacci that has been sitting in my closet for about 5 years with tags still attached, just haven't had the time to get it tailored. I hope this summer it finally gets some wear

 

[othertravel]

I'm no financial advisor, nor am I anyone's mother; I don't care where people spend their money. I'm a bespoke tailor's apprentice that wants to learn as much as I can, and upskirting luxury brands is something I find therapeutically stimulating. I can see how other brands make garments, in comparison to the ways I was taught, and by comparing SRP price tags and reputation, I can justify what is preached versus what is practiced. I will always offer to answer questions if there are things I have not been able to properly describe. I've had more messages of intrigue from people that find this series fascinating than the few people that would rather look at a concrete anatomical exhibition as an 'opinion'.

As I've mentioned before, these garments are one of thousands made. Production changes constantly, and these individual items are not reflecting the entire history of a brand. But, I will state that these garments I take apart are not knock-offs; they are garments that have made it through the Quality Control standards by these companies, to be put on a retail sales floor by their labeled companies at full price, and available for purchase to the public. They are not sample garments, as one poster has previously tried to suggest.

I have not paid for any of these items, they are sent to me specifically for research purposes with the agreement that I document what I find here, specifically on StyleForum. I post more video and photographic coverage of what I take a part on Instagram, because the majority of my social media circle of interaction is with other tailors and company owners spread out across the globe; so whatever I post on here is not only what I discover personally, but features insight from other tailors that probably know far more than I do.

If you don't like this series, or feel no level of interest towards it, you can easily scroll past it. You're obviously more than welcome to make purchases as you please, and enjoy the garments you have collected and possess. It's also within your own right to take your own garments apart and document your own discoveries however you please.

--------------

But, for now on to...:

View attachment 1926537

While I was waiting for another package to arrive in the mail, I decided to commence taking apart this Canali. Two of the tailors present while I disassembled this jacket both warned me "you will probably be pleasantly surprised with Canali." From the outside, the jacket felt stiff, though the fabric was spongey and soft. It's a heavy hopsack that flaunts an inside tag that reads 'Travel'. I didn't press the jacket at all, so on the mannequin, it drapes as was, 'fresh out of the box.' Hopsacks and open weave fabrics generally are great for travel-intended garments because they weigh heavier and the yarns are more dense which are less likely to wrinkle.

View attachment 1926539

On the outside, there are very little signs of handwork, being a medium-entry price offering at higher-end retailers, I wasn't expecting to find that much hand detail. The swelled edges are all machine stitched down, buttonholes are all done by machine. Flipping the garment inside out, I was excited to see some hand-closing details.

View attachment 1926541

Though, it's common that the sleeve lining is closed by hand, the sleeves in this jacket didn't show any signs of having ever been altered. The hem at the bottom of the jacket was felled by hand as well, which having machine-stitched edges, they could have easily machine stitched through the hem to close it. This shows that it is not Canali's intention to rush production with a machine, but also that slowing down to seal the bottoms by hand is a quality they'd like to preserve.

View attachment 1926543

Similar to the hem, the facing was also felled by hand to the fronts.

View attachment 1926545

With most brands I have taken apart so far, it's very common to see the sleeve placket machine stitched, but Canali did not only close the sleeve bottoms by hand, but also the placket. To do it via machine just saves a lot of time and does not actually jeopardize the quality.

View attachment 1926547

The sleeve cuff was pleasantly unfused. One tailor present said that he usually charges extra to alter Canali sleeves because they reinforce their cuffs with linen rather than fusing. The sleeves I've altered in the past by Luciano and Attolini are all finished this same way. The Zegna sleeve is uncertain as it had been altered too many times to tell it's original condition and the Cucinelli was completely fused.

View attachment 1926549

Sleeve lining was basted to both seams of the sleeve, prevents shifting and twisting, as mentioned in previous posts.

View attachment 1926551

Inside-out sleeve with exposed sleeve head:

View attachment 1926553

Collar was assembled by machine, as you can see along the edges and the top, however along the bottom of the collar, we can see that it was assembled to the jacket by hand. You can tell if you were to look closely because the machine stitch is a perfectly evened LLLLLLLLLLLLL and by hand is more of an imperfect ll\lll/lll/l\ll. I like to close my collars with a hatch stitch, which I was told is a more flexible means of attaching something that is constantly in movement, however this is constantly contested by many other tailors. Looks more like a XXXXXXXX

View attachment 1926555

Pleasantly, I was shocked to see that Canali didn't use any fusing to reinforce the shoulder at the collar nor behind the shoulder seam rather instead, they use stiff edge tape.

View attachment 1926559

I have not yet found a collar that had been rolled and padded by hand. Usually they're blind-stitched, this one was fused. This picture shows the canvas, without any stitching sturdily attached to the melton.

View attachment 1926561

Shoulder seam is open, with a reinforced tape. I prefer seams closed, because they're stronger but this causes the seam to be raised which may not be an aesthetic preference for many brands.

View attachment 1926563



View attachment 1926565

It's a pretty good-looking pattern overall. Well-maintained shape.

View attachment 1926567

A wedge of lining to conceal the canvas on the inside. Haven't seen that before, but I suppose the intention is to conceal the insides and any possible fraying that may occur to the canvas.

View attachment 1926569

The canvas used is actually extremely lightweight, I was surprised by this because the jacket itself felt so stiff, turning back the facing, the only thing that can take blame for the stiffness could be the stiff layering of pocketing fabric. But as I looked closer to the construction of the canvas, the chest piece was made of horsehair canvas that spread from the button stance and into the armhole. Horsehair I most commonly see spread across the top of the canvas at the shoulder.

View attachment 1926571

As seen with the Zegna, the dart is reinforced with fusing where it zeroes, and an additional strip of fabric reinforces the dart; Sebastian Espinosa kept boasting the fact that he was the one that taught me about this method.

View attachment 1926573

Another additional detail that shocked me about this Canali, is the lack of fusing in the construction of the jacket. Fusing is used on the Zegna at the top of the lapel and throughout the cran, and in the corners of the quarters. Canali didn't have any fusing in these areas... shockingly also was the lack of fusing around the chest pocket. Fusing is used to add more durability where fabric can shift and the fact that this jacket has survived two owners (though I do no know how old it is), it remained in great condition.

View attachment 1926575

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the construction of this Canali jacket, and though it costs less at regular price, I'd argue that the Canali is better made than the E. Zegna jacket that I took apart (even though quality is very similar and each do certain things better or worse than the other). Cananli is mostly assembled by machine, with hand finishing where they could have used fusing and machine to expedite their production. Goes to show that Canali is less interested in fast production but rather in finding a decent balance regarding how they feel things should be made and what their competitors are making and the price they are asking.

As currently sits, the jackets that remain for me to disassemble are:

Kiton.
Brioni.
Isaia.
London House (Rubinacci).

And two others that seem to be stuck somewhere at the US/Canada border.

This is fantastic. Thank you for this series.

 

[Bjorling]

I'm looking for an English bridle leather belt and wondered it anyone has ordered from Victory Made Goods in Alberta, and could share their opinion on both the product and the ordering/delivery process.

Flagship Bridle Leather Belt - Victorymade Goods

Elevate your style with our Flagship Bridle Leather Belt. Crafted with the finest materials, it's the perfect accessory to complete any outfit.

victorymadegoods.com

 

[TimothyF]

I'm no financial advisor, nor am I anyone's mother; I don't care where people spend their money. I'm a bespoke tailor's apprentice that wants to learn as much as I can, and upskirting luxury brands is something I find therapeutically stimulating. I can see how other brands make garments, in comparison to the ways I was taught, and by comparing SRP price tags and reputation, I can justify what is preached versus what is practiced. I will always offer to answer questions if there are things I have not been able to properly describe. I've had more messages of intrigue from people that find this series fascinating than the few people that would rather look at a concrete anatomical exhibition as an 'opinion'.

As I've mentioned before, these garments are one of thousands made. Production changes constantly, and these individual items are not reflecting the entire history of a brand. But, I will state that these garments I take apart are not knock-offs; they are garments that have made it through the Quality Control standards by these companies, to be put on a retail sales floor by their labeled companies at full price, and available for purchase to the public. They are not sample garments, as one poster has previously tried to suggest.

I have not paid for any of these items, they are sent to me specifically for research purposes with the agreement that I document what I find here, specifically on StyleForum. I post more video and photographic coverage of what I take a part on Instagram, because the majority of my social media circle of interaction is with other tailors and company owners spread out across the globe; so whatever I post on here is not only what I discover personally, but features insight from other tailors that probably know far more than I do.

If you don't like this series, or feel no level of interest towards it, you can easily scroll past it. You're obviously more than welcome to make purchases as you please, and enjoy the garments you have collected and possess. It's also within your own right to take your own garments apart and document your own discoveries however you please.

--------------

But, for now on to...:

View attachment 1926537

While I was waiting for another package to arrive in the mail, I decided to commence taking apart this Canali. Two of the tailors present while I disassembled this jacket both warned me "you will probably be pleasantly surprised with Canali." From the outside, the jacket felt stiff, though the fabric was spongey and soft. It's a heavy hopsack that flaunts an inside tag that reads 'Travel'. I didn't press the jacket at all, so on the mannequin, it drapes as was, 'fresh out of the box.' Hopsacks and open weave fabrics generally are great for travel-intended garments because they weigh heavier and the yarns are more dense which are less likely to wrinkle.

View attachment 1926539

On the outside, there are very little signs of handwork, being a medium-entry price offering at higher-end retailers, I wasn't expecting to find that much hand detail. The swelled edges are all machine stitched down, buttonholes are all done by machine. Flipping the garment inside out, I was excited to see some hand-closing details.

View attachment 1926541

Though, it's common that the sleeve lining is closed by hand, the sleeves in this jacket didn't show any signs of having ever been altered. The hem at the bottom of the jacket was felled by hand as well, which having machine-stitched edges, they could have easily machine stitched through the hem to close it. This shows that it is not Canali's intention to rush production with a machine, but also that slowing down to seal the bottoms by hand is a quality they'd like to preserve.

View attachment 1926543

Similar to the hem, the facing was also felled by hand to the fronts.

View attachment 1926545

With most brands I have taken apart so far, it's very common to see the sleeve placket machine stitched, but Canali did not only close the sleeve bottoms by hand, but also the placket. To do it via machine just saves a lot of time and does not actually jeopardize the quality.

View attachment 1926547

The sleeve cuff was pleasantly unfused. One tailor present said that he usually charges extra to alter Canali sleeves because they reinforce their cuffs with linen rather than fusing. The sleeves I've altered in the past by Luciano and Attolini are all finished this same way. The Zegna sleeve is uncertain as it had been altered too many times to tell it's original condition and the Cucinelli was completely fused.

View attachment 1926549

Sleeve lining was basted to both seams of the sleeve, prevents shifting and twisting, as mentioned in previous posts.

View attachment 1926551

Inside-out sleeve with exposed sleeve head:

View attachment 1926553

Collar was assembled by machine, as you can see along the edges and the top, however along the bottom of the collar, we can see that it was assembled to the jacket by hand. You can tell if you were to look closely because the machine stitch is a perfectly evened LLLLLLLLLLLLL and by hand is more of an imperfect ll\lll/lll/l\ll. I like to close my collars with a hatch stitch, which I was told is a more flexible means of attaching something that is constantly in movement, however this is constantly contested by many other tailors. Looks more like a XXXXXXXX

View attachment 1926555

Pleasantly, I was shocked to see that Canali didn't use any fusing to reinforce the shoulder at the collar nor behind the shoulder seam rather instead, they use stiff edge tape.

View attachment 1926559

I have not yet found a collar that had been rolled and padded by hand. Usually they're blind-stitched, this one was fused. This picture shows the canvas, without any stitching sturdily attached to the melton.

View attachment 1926561

Shoulder seam is open, with a reinforced tape. I prefer seams closed, because they're stronger but this causes the seam to be raised which may not be an aesthetic preference for many brands.

View attachment 1926563



View attachment 1926565

It's a pretty good-looking pattern overall. Well-maintained shape.

View attachment 1926567

A wedge of lining to conceal the canvas on the inside. Haven't seen that before, but I suppose the intention is to conceal the insides and any possible fraying that may occur to the canvas.

View attachment 1926569

The canvas used is actually extremely lightweight, I was surprised by this because the jacket itself felt so stiff, turning back the facing, the only thing that can take blame for the stiffness could be the stiff layering of pocketing fabric. But as I looked closer to the construction of the canvas, the chest piece was made of horsehair canvas that spread from the button stance and into the armhole. Horsehair I most commonly see spread across the top of the canvas at the shoulder.

View attachment 1926571

As seen with the Zegna, the dart is reinforced with fusing where it zeroes, and an additional strip of fabric reinforces the dart; Sebastian Espinosa kept boasting the fact that he was the one that taught me about this method.

View attachment 1926573

Another additional detail that shocked me about this Canali, is the lack of fusing in the construction of the jacket. Fusing is used on the Zegna at the top of the lapel and throughout the cran, and in the corners of the quarters. Canali didn't have any fusing in these areas... shockingly also was the lack of fusing around the chest pocket. Fusing is used to add more durability where fabric can shift and the fact that this jacket has survived two owners (though I do no know how old it is), it remained in great condition.

View attachment 1926575

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the construction of this Canali jacket, and though it costs less at regular price, I'd argue that the Canali is better made than the E. Zegna jacket that I took apart (even though quality is very similar and each do certain things better or worse than the other). Cananli is mostly assembled by machine, with hand finishing where they could have used fusing and machine to expedite their production. Goes to show that Canali is less interested in fast production but rather in finding a decent balance regarding how they feel things should be made and what their competitors are making and the price they are asking.

As currently sits, the jackets that remain for me to disassemble are:

Kiton.
Brioni.
Isaia.
London House (Rubinacci).

And two others that seem to be stuck somewhere at the US/Canada border.

One aspect that always puzzled me is why the edges are left raw. Yes I know they are on the inside and unseen by the customer. But with sewing machines it should not take long to finish off the edges with thread. Cleaner look, cleaner feel, and no unravelling. It would appear no one does this, not even the very top tier

 

[partenopean]

I absolutely was not shaming anyone. It just seems like everyone here has more money to spend on clothes than me. It's envy and admiration.

This is why I buy a lottery ticket every week. I encourage you to do so also.

 

[suitforcourt]

This is why I buy a lottery ticket every week. I encourage you to do so also.

I'm cool with envying and admiring most members here. It's nice to see the nicer pieces.

 

[partenopean]

I'm cool with envying and admiring most members here. It's nice to see the nicer pieces.

LOL. In this thread? Is there much to admire here?

 

[Ebichuman]

No, not in this thread. Not enough Cucinelli here

 

[partenopean]

I come looking for Cucinelli and all I get is scraps from a ripped up 20-year old, discarded suit jacket!

 

[induere_to]

Unmentioned fact: the day after I took apart the Cucinelli jacket, I ran up to Yorkville to do some investigating and check out the collections available on the floor for public purchase so I can compare what they had to the one I had taken apart. I was curious if maybe the suit I had dissected was possibly a knock-off. It wasn't...

...But, while I was up in Yorkville, I stopped by Holt Renfrew and ran into some old friends. As they marched off to sell to some clients, I did some wandering and digging of my own and came across a Brioni tuxedo that had caught my eye. For those that follow me on Instagram, you may recall this, as I had posted pictures of some of the finishing qualities from the garment (the trousers even had the waistband attached by hand). When I notice a garment now, my eye scans every visible centimetre so I can critique how it's made. When I was younger, I had a job as a screen-printer for Jansport and to this day, I cannot buy a t-shirt whose ink suggests that the silk screens had not been properly lined up. So, now that I've developed my newfound obsessive compulsiveness to critique tailoring, this may be something I carry to my grave.

The price-tag read $7500. So, I ended up getting my hands on a Brioni jacket to take apart:

Buttonholes (though not the most attractive) on the fronts were all done by hand, as was the edge stitching.

The hem of the jacket was felled by hand as well. It's usually hard to comment on the bottoms of jackets because any adjustment to the waist and sides is usually done through opening the bottom lining of the jacket. However, beneath the felling at the hem, you can see a hand top stitch that I have not seen before, don't recall opening up to see what it was attached to now that I think about it. But later, you'll see that once I removd the lining that the hem of the jacket was also sealed by hand.

Collar is attached by hand.

Sleeve lining and shoulder lining seam all felled by hand.

The placket of the cuff is extremely short... evidence that the sleeve was once shortened by quite a bit. However, the felling along the inside of the placket was still done by hand. The bottom of the sleeve lining was all finished by machine, so my estimated guess is that hand-stitching would have been original.

Linen inside the cuff.

The shoulder padding was extremely thick, which I didn't personally find aesthetically pleasing and made me estimate that the garments manufacturing could be several decades old. So it was interesting that once I got inside the shoulder, to see that a massively thick shoulder pad was added at some point for one of it's previous owners.

Gone.

Prick-stitch machine-stitching that tacks the lining to the facing:

How it looks from the outside:

Threw the jacket back on the mannequin after removing the shoulder pad, and believe that the original jacket structure has a much better drape.

Sleeve head is attached by hand. As were all the additional layers throughout the armhole.

Collar was basted in by hand, attached by machine in the front and finished by hand.

The bottom of the collar was top-stitched by hand as well, this stitching goes through to the melton and holds the layers together. You can also see the lining beneath the collar was all finished by hand.

I found the following image quite mind-blowing. One of the prideful assembly tailors I would sometimes apprentice under would yell at me when I complained about seeing him use fusing in a jacket. "Everyone uses fusing! There is no tailor that exists that doesn't use fusing somewhere." I know it wasn't true, but this Brioni collar was strengthened by using Silesia along the top of the collar rather than fusing. The shoulder seam is open with a fortifying edge tape. The collar is machine blind-stitched.

Removing the shoulder pad from the armhole by removing all of the hand basting.

StyleForum only allows a certain number of picture uploads per post, and I'm trying to take as many pictures possible of each step of the process.

So, to be continued...