The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ter1413]

I picked up a Caruso sport coat on the cheap recently that I like, but it's snug in the shoulders/chest.

View attachment 1092637 View attachment 1092638

In particular, note the bunching below my shoulders from the back.

Is this simply too small for me, or can this be addressed?

WAY too small. Look at how short the sleeves are.....without even addressing any other issues. Return it.

 

[Quipster]

WAY too small. Look at how short the sleeves are.....without even addressing any other issues. Return it.

I have long arms for my height and need sleeves lengthened on everything (better than getting a jacket shortened). Thanks though.

 

[paxonus]

I picked up a Caruso sport coat on the cheap recently that I like, but it's snug in the shoulders/chest.

View attachment 1092637 View attachment 1092638

In particular, note the bunching below my shoulders from the back.

Is this simply too small for me, or can this be addressed?

The bunching under the shoulder is because it is too tight. That cannot be altered.

 

[Ladislav]

Hi guys,

what do You think, it might be wrong with this fit. In particular, I'am concerned about the back.

Regards

 

[othertravel]

Too tight in the waist. Also looks a bit short.

 

[Ladislav]

Too tight in the waist. Also looks a bit short.

Thanks, for the comment.

Well, do You think, it is modifiable? It's Suitsupply. Normally I wear this size (50, 52 would be too big though). Could the cut be the reason?

 

[othertravel]

The waist can be taken out a bit, but there’s also rumples along the shoulder. Might want to try a different model (and a longer size).

I’d also recommend trying Spier and Mackay if you’re looking for staples. Better value than suitsupply in my opinion.

 

[Ladislav]

The waist can be taken out a bit, but there’s also rumples along the shoulder. Might want to try a different model (and a longer size).

I’d also recommend trying Spier and Mackay if you’re looking for staples. Better value than suitsupply in my opinion.

Looks pretty well, but as being from Europe, it would be slightly more complicated. But seem frankly even better than Suitsupply.

Thanks

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

Anyone know why my jeans are giving me a serious wedgie? I'm using these as a template for some Luxire jeans, and I'm not quite sure how to fix that because the hips look fine. Do I ask for them for a full seat adjustment or to scoop the seat?

 

[BernieL]

Hi All,

Just received my first trial shirt from Ascot Chang after being measured at the San Francisco trunk show last month. I asked for a fused collar with the lightest possible lining to look like my Permanent Style Oxford shirt but their collar turns out to be stiff with no roll. Also, I asked for very subtle shirring in the shoulders - that request was ignored. All feedback is welcome. From my observations, 1. There is excess fabric throughout the arms, 2. I think shoulder slope and sleeve pitch need improvement, I feel tugging with the natural rotation of my arms, 3. The darting in the back is too aggressive, causing the bottom to pull upwards, 4. Sleeve length needs to be lengthened slightly, 5. A bit more room in the chest (feels a bit tight), 6. Increase dress shirt overall length to fully cover seat, and 7. Cleanup excess fabric in the top portion of the back.

Without further ado, here are the pictures of the shirt:

 

[Colrais]

Anyone know why my jeans are giving me a serious wedgie? I'm using these as a template for some Luxire jeans, and I'm not quite sure how to fix that because the hips look fine. Do I ask for them for a full seat adjustment or to scoop the seat? View attachment 1095898 View attachment 1095899

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/on-pants.177616/

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/on-pants.177616/

Thank your this, it was an interesting read. Is there a similar guide for shirts? And based on the roping around my crack, I'm guessing I gotta scoop the seat.

 

[angelescrest]

I don’t know what it is, but my winter coat buttons all seem to unravel rather quickly, and I don’t even fasten them all the time. I went to the tailor today and he suggested I put backer buttons (aka reinforced buttons) on the inside, opposite the exterior button. This would prevent ripping. Both coats (wool/mohair/alpaca blend; baby camel hair) are currently at the tailor and are double breasted.

Truth is, I’ve never seen a backer button on modern menswear. Should I get them or not? I don’t put a lot of strain on my coats. But while I’d hate to rip the fabric at some point, I am also concerned it would look strange to me, even though nobody will see them being that they are on the inside.

I live in the sticks and wish I had more confidence in my tailor, though having left a few items with him including two suits that will require a lot of work, this will be a big test.

 

[circumspice]

@sehkelly used backer buttons on my green cotton raincoat. I think they are cool. The cotton lining in the sleeves makes getting the coat on a bit of a production, however

 

[lngn2]

Here's my latest Luxire iteration. My previous iteration can be found in post 7070.

Pants
Alterations since previous order:

• Hip circumference increased. Judging by the curve of the side seams at pocket height I should probably increase it more.
• Thigh circumference increased by 2 cm. Maybe increasing a bit more would allow the pants to fall cleaner the the back of my thighs?
• Knee circumference increased by 0.5 cm.
• Decreased back rise at waist band by 1 cm and increased front rise at waist band by 0.5 cm to achieve a more horizontal waist band.
• Inseam length increased, it ended up slightly too long causing some breaking. It will be shortened.

At this point Luxire had no further suggestions to improve the fit. I asked about using ironwork to clean up the back of knees area. They do offer this service, but it would more or less double the cost of the pants which probably isn't worth it to me.

I've been reading up on ironwork and most of it is performed before the trousers are assembled. Some of the worked areas are along seams and thus can't be stretched/shrunken after assembly. However, some worked areas are along creases and could possibly be stretched/shrunken even after assembly.

I'm suggesting that when ironing an assembled trouser, one should stretch the blue areas and shrink the red areas:

Image from Cutting for Prominent Calves

Rather after the event but I've just posted on this at https://www.styleforum.net/threads/bespoke-trouser-ironwork.641277