The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Nobleprofessor]

First post in this thread (I'm usually in the thrift bragging thread). I am a lawyer and have to dress up everyday. I wear a suit 2-3 times a week. I have lost about 40 pounds and all of my suits are hanging on me. I was up to a 52L and a 44+ waist. Now, I still wear a 50L but I need a 40 waist. I might be able to wear a 48L but even though I have lost quite a bit of weight, I still have very broad shoulders. So, here's my question. How much can I really tailor my pants before they are going to look weird. I used to wear a 46 and had a 34 waist. When I tried to have pants tailored that much the pockets were practically touching and the pants looked odd. Do I bite the bullet and get new suits or can these be tailored down this much.

 

[ter1413]

So, here's my question. How much can I really tailor my pants before they are going to look weird. I used to wear a 46 and had a 34 waist. When I tried to have pants tailored that much the pockets were practically touching and the pants looked odd. Do I bite the bullet and get new suits or can these be tailored down this much.

Yup!

 

[tbrock]

Have just got this RTW Hardy Amies suit (not the best, I know but at 5'6" one can't be picky and I've had some horrendous MTM experiences).

Ignoring the trousers, which have not been altered yet, the main issue I see is the sleeve pitch. Waist, chest, shoulders and neck seem fine. Back looks worse than it is, due to needing steaming, but length all round is good.

How difficult an issue would it be to fix the sleeve pitch so it doesn't crease the arm like that? I believe it is half canvas. And any recommendations for alterations tailors in London? Is Pinnas and Needles still good?

 

[Andrews1980]

Have just got this RTW Hardy Amies suit (not the best, I know but at 5'6" one can't be picky and I've had some horrendous MTM experiences).

Ignoring the trousers, which have not been altered yet, the main issue I see is the sleeve pitch. Waist, chest, shoulders and neck seem fine. Back looks worse than it is, due to needing steaming, but length all round is good.

How difficult an issue would it be to fix the sleeve pitch so it doesn't crease the arm like that? I believe it is half canvas. And any recommendations for alterations tailors in London? Is Pinnas and Needles still good?

Sleeve pitch shouldn't be too difficult for a reasonable tailor. Not one for a dry cleaner though.

Back balance looks a little long too, bit you may have to live with that one now.

 

[Andrews1980]

Hi everyone,
Longtime lurker, first time poster here. I just thrifted this sport coat and would like some feedback on the fit specifically the length. I know it's longer than modern but is it too long or more on the traditional side? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 1000319

Length is fine. Ignore the rules and trust your eye.

You drop right a little. Pad it up and lengthen the sleeve to balance it out.

 

[Andrews1980]

Following on from my first post in here the other day. Today I picked up another suit. Of less cost, but I believe it fits me much better. It’s only a Hilfiger suit so no points for top quality, but I believe it fits quite well. Will just be a beater suit for days out etc.

Only a few things I can notice, but I’m sure you’ll notice more.

- Suit seems to have a strange drape when unbuttoned.

- Trouser possibly has too many breaks, where’s it kissing the top of the shoe rather than riding down it.

- Trouser feels ever so slightly tight around the thigh area.

-Jacket Feels a little roomy to me and could possibly be taken in at the waist slightly? This could possibly be due to me being used to fairly tight fitting suits however.

(Obviously needs a pressing around the arm area)

Any suggestions on how to make this fit better?

Thanks

View attachment 1000818

View attachment 1000819

View attachment 1000820

View attachment 1000821

View attachment 1000824

Hi buddy.....you look square shouldered to me. Hence the foreparts swinging away and the crease under the collar. Doe it feel the though the jacket I bouncing off your shoulder bone?

Trousers are difficult to see.from the photos, bit you certainly have too much back balance. If you have no hip pocket you may be able to drop the back rise and pass some excess out. You may need to let out the fork and reshape the seatline a little too.

 

[cbr]

Hi fellas!
I need your suggestions on my trousers. I am quite fine with the overall fit, but a bit helpless with some details. Where do the creases at the shinbone and under the kneepan come from? Do you recommend to narrow the thighs because of the excess fabric at the crotch?
I took a different photo from another angle because the trousers do not highlight my butt like the photo seems to.
I appreciate your thoughts!
cbr

 

[jandersson]

@cbr: great fit! I wish I could achieve such nice unbroken back creases.
I'm not a tailor, but...

• I'd guess the breaks at your shins are due to excessive front length.
• I would not narrow the thighs. You've achieved a surprisingly clean fit for a fairly narrow width. Maybe lowering the crotch/shortening the inseam from the top would clean up the excess fabric?

 

[zr3rs]

Hi fellas!
I need your suggestions on my trousers. I am quite fine with the overall fit, but a bit helpless with some details. Where do the creases at the shinbone and under the kneepan come from? Do you recommend to narrow the thighs because of the excess fabric at the crotch?

If you look at the side seams, there are diagonal creases at the height of the pockets and the side seam is not straight. The rear needs to be let out in this area. If that is done properly, the rear could be lowered somewhat because the front-rear balance is off for your posture (try to pull the front higher and observe the result). Everything else should wait until this is corrected.
Trousers are difficult.

 

[Maccimus]

Hi fellas!
I need your suggestions on my trousers. I am quite fine with the overall fit, but a bit helpless with some details. Where do the creases at the shinbone and under the kneepan come from? Do you recommend to narrow the thighs because of the excess fabric at the crotch?
I took a different photo from another angle because the trousers do not highlight my butt like the photo seems to.
I appreciate your thoughts!
cbr

You may not believe this, but the creases show that trousers are too tight, even that you can feel no stretch at all. You will need more room in the back, as currently the back piece is dragging your pocket open. You will also need a touch more room in the front--see the dent around the crease of right leg. Let them out if you have enough allowances in the side seams.
The mess around crotch suggests that you may also need to dress them lower.
These are typical mistakes a modern tailor will make. Even they have noticed the fuller pants can create sharper looks than slim/skinny pants, they still make the upper part overly slim. I made those mistakes too in the beginning.

 

[cbr]

If you look at the side seams, there are diagonal creases at the height of the pockets and the side seam is not straight. The rear needs to be let out in this area. If that is done properly, the rear could be lowered somewhat because the front-rear balance is off for your posture (try to pull the front higher and observe the result). Everything else should wait until this is corrected.
Trousers are difficult.

You may not believe this, but the creases show that trousers are too tight, even that you can feel no stretch at all. You will need more room in the back, as currently the back piece is dragging your pocket open. You will also need a touch more room in the front--see the dent around the crease of right leg. Let them out if you have enough allowances in the side seams.
The mess around crotch suggests that you may also need to dress them lower.
These are typical mistakes a modern tailor will make. Even they have noticed the fuller pants can create sharper looks than slim/skinny pants, they still make the upper part overly slim. I made those mistakes too in the beginning.

Thanks, guys! I see your point with the tight rear. I will go for widening it at first and then have a look at other alterations. The pictures don´t show the front-rear-balance correctly. I checked it today and front and back are on the same height, but the shown problems are the same. Dunno why it is that wrong on the pictures.
Also I pulled the front higher, but the creases above the cuffs stay the same. :/
Maybe I should go for widening the trousers overall (from rear over thighs to calves)? If yes, would you agree to start with 1cm overall?

@Maccimus Why should I go for a lower rise? Now, it stays on my natural hip. If I lower them, the excess fabric would be there too, maybe just a little bit lower, or did I get you wrong?

Thanks a lot for your suggestions!

 

[Maccimus]

Complicated. If it still looks messy then some adjustments would be needed. It is also related to which side you dress.

 

[Andrews1980]

Hi fellas!
I need your suggestions on my trousers. I am quite fine with the overall fit, but a bit helpless with some details. Where do the creases at the shinbone and under the kneepan come from? Do you recommend to narrow the thighs because of the excess fabric at the crotch?
I took a different photo from another angle because the trousers do not highlight my butt like the photo seems to.
I appreciate your thoughts!
cbr

View attachment 1007159

View attachment 1007160

View attachment 1007161

View attachment 1007162

View attachment 1007163

To be fair, they don't look bad. Sometimes a relentless pursuit of perfection can lead to dissatisfaction. Clothes are to be enjoyed.

From a purely critical point of view, the seat and thigh seem a tad close. Let them out so the pleats can settle. The back rise looks a little high, but you may be bracing them up??

The creasing on the front of leg looks like it's your calf's pulling. Either let out a tad or get your tailor to stretch and shape the leg here.

You also look to be high hip on the right.....you may have to accept it on this pair.

 

[jandersson]

I'm trying to understand the details of how collars fit and would appreciate some feedback.

My main issue with this collar is that the collar points won't stay down against my chest. Collar stays would fix this, but I prefer the softer roll you get without stays.

My analysis is that the collar leaf edge rests on my traps at ~6 cm from the collar points. I figured that if we shortened the collar leaf height at this point the collar points might reach my chest:

The tailor doesn't believe this would fix the problem, and I like the current shape so I'm fine with not changing it. But what then would make the collar points reach my chest? Tapering down the height of the collar band towards the front?

Another issue I see with the collar is how the placket buckles beneath the collar band:

My analysis is that the current collar band is too straight. It rests against my neck/traps across my back and on my clavicles in the front. This pushes the placket down and causes it to buckle. Also I often see a bit of a collar gap at the back of my neck. Not big enough to bother me, but I do see it as another sign of the collar band being too straight.

My thinking is that a curved collar band like this could pull the placket upwards instead of squashing it down. The new collar band shape would also require a new collar leaf shape, but I can't figure out if it will improve or worsen the flying collar point issue.

 

[beargonefishing]

I'm trying to understand the details of how collars fit and would appreciate some feedback.

My main issue with this collar is that the collar points won't stay down against my chest. Collar stays would fix this, but I prefer the softer roll you get without stays.
View attachment 1012386

My analysis is that the collar leaf edge rests on my traps at ~6 cm from the collar points. I figured that if we shortened the collar leaf height at this point the collar points might reach my chest:
View attachment 1012387
The tailor doesn't believe this would fix the problem, and I like the current shape so I'm fine with not changing it. But what then would make the collar points reach my chest? Tapering down the height of the collar band towards the front?

Another issue I see with the collar is how the placket buckles beneath the collar band:
View attachment 1012391

My analysis is that the current collar band is too straight. It rests against my neck/traps across my back and on my clavicles in the front. This pushes the placket down and causes it to buckle. Also I often see a bit of a collar gap at the back of my neck. Not big enough to bother me, but I do see it as another sign of the collar band being too straight.

View attachment 1012397
My thinking is that a curved collar band like this could pull the placket upwards instead of squashing it down. The new collar band shape would also require a new collar leaf shape, but I can't figure out if it will improve or worsen the flying collar point issue.

Have you tried a one piece collar?