The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

@Egdon Heath

EH, I chose to respond to his post because you said “little can be done to fix this” which is not true. It’s more work than you care to do with the experience you have. He would like the trouser to look better and it can be done without such excessive effort that it makes it not worth it.
Keep sewing EH. When I started it would take me two days to do something I can do in a few hours now. Take a class, find a tailor and watch him work. Get some guidance/training, if you haven’t already. You will progress much quicker. Like any skill, it’s harder to learn on your own. No way to understand the techniques or if you are doing it wrong. Harder to correct bad habits than to learn proper methods and practice them.

 

[AlonsoMerino]

Hello,

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask this but I was wondering if people here know when Prada started using this logo/patch design on their suits?

P.S. I know Prada doesn't get much love around here

 

[demondeac]

What can be done to help these pants drape better in the seat / thigh?

 

[GAKBO]

I have just ordered a cotton suit from Suitsupply, a bargain online. My query for this thread: can cotton be altered? Any limitations on what can be done (versus wool)?

 

[breakaway01]

I have just ordered a cotton suit from Suitsupply, a bargain online. My query for this thread: can cotton be altered? Any limitations on what can be done (versus wool)?

not a tailor but my experience has been that taking in is no problem. If you let out, the old stitching holes may remain visible.

 

[bdavro23]

No I haven't made a pair of trousers from scratch, having no desire to do that, sorta like an auto repair guy has no desire to build a car from scratch, so scratch ability is not my criterion here. We were discussing the eradication of pant bulge above the cuff, I went first and you followed, basically repeating what I'd said, except that you think it's a piece of cake and I don't, which apparently makes me ripe for a pile of snide. Whatever. So long, thread. It's all yours.

To be fair, it IS the "tailor's fit and feedback" thread...

 

[Despos]

What can be done to help these pants drape better in the seat / thigh?

View attachment 1371088

Taking in the crotch a bit and shaping the seat will help a little.
You would benefit having trousers made that would adjust the cutting for the outward curve around the calf. You need a trouser cut with a long outseam and short inseam. It's a bow leg adjustment. Looks like you have a high right hip that could be compensated for.

 

[Egdon Heath]

To be fair, it IS the "tailor's fit and feedback" thread...

So I'm what, supposed to show my license? Don't got. Despos has set up the entry ticket for me here, have I made a pair of trousers from scratch? Nay. And have no plans to. I tore my Robert Hall (Google it) college fraternity blazer apart one drunken night when I was 18 to see the secrets inside. Then sober used what I found to teach me how to remake a jacket into the bohemian style that would match my diction. And likewise with other clothing items. And have kept at it for the 57 years since. My tailoring desire ends at my own closet. A nice one and I do interesting work. And will show it here some day. Please hold me to it, for I can be a slacker. I seem to have mis-stepped here by offering an explanation to a question asked. A proper one, but since I've not made my bones by clothing strangers for bucks, I accept a splash or two of internet scorn from those that do. Accept, not expect. So once again, so long, thread.

 

[bdavro23]

So I'm what, supposed to show my license? Don't got. Despos has set up the entry ticket for me here, have I made a pair of trousers from scratch? Nay. And have no plans to. I tore my Robert Hall (Google it) college fraternity blazer apart one drunken night when I was 18 to see the secrets inside. Then sober used what I found to teach me how to remake a jacket into the bohemian style that would match my diction. And likewise with other clothing items. And have kept at it for the 57 years since. My tailoring desire ends at my own closet. A nice one and I do interesting work. And will show it here some day. Please hold me to it, for I can be a slacker. I seem to have mis-stepped here by offering an explanation to a question asked. A proper one, but since I've not made my bones by clothing strangers for bucks, I accept a splash or two of internet scorn from those that do. Accept, not expect. So once again, so long, thread.

I'm not trying to be difficult here, but the whole point of this thread is to get feedback from professional tailors. There are hundreds of other threads on this site where everyone gets to have their opinion, but this one was set up so people would have the opportunity to get experienced, advice and direction from people who make their living making and altering clothing.

As it happens, the info you gave was wrong and could have dissuaded the poster from getting something fixed thats pretty straight forward for a professional. We've all been wrong before and theres no reason to disappear. Why dont you start a thread with some of your work, I'd certainly be interested in seeing it.

 

[CorozoButton]

I saw a post in the Hertling MTO thread, which included this picture, asking about the pleat 'opening' slightly:

I'm having the exact same issue, including the very diagonal lines pulling from the pleat to the thigh, along with very minor pocket opening.

@Despos mentioned that whilst not irregular for the cut, to get rid of it would require a fuller thigh/leg. Would I also need to increase the seat measurement slightly, and if so, should it be the whole seat, or just the front panel, whilst leaving the back the same (there is no visible pulling on the back of the seat, which looks very clean).

Thanks!

 

[Despos]

This is what pleats do. the crease is flat against the body at the top and turning outward to make the crease down the trouser leg. Pleats/crease rotate like this. It's normal.

The diagonal lines are from the pattern. The back part is too open, in tailoring terms. It seems to be the common flaw in some trouser patterns. They need a better pattern.

 

[CorozoButton]

This is what pleats do. the crease is flat against the body at the top and turning outward to make the crease down the trouser leg. Pleats/crease rotate like this. It's normal.

The diagonal lines are from the pattern. The back part is too open, in tailoring terms. It seems to be the common flaw in some trouser patterns. They need a better pattern.

Thank you! Are you able to explain what 'the back part is too open' means in layman terms?

 

[Despos]

The explanation is about the angles of the back part and how they align with the front when sewn together. Change the angles to change the drape/fit.The angles are determined by and have to match the body type. That's why you can't adjust this with a change in measurements. Lowering the waist line in back or in internet terms, decrease the back rise, is not the way to correct the pattern either. It's pretty simple engineering and I don't understand why this is such a ubiquitous problem.

 

[Dr.Teatime]

Dear august gentlemen of the sartorial ilk,
I am having a sport coat made up in tweed and received a first run... Clearly there are several issues with this including the dreaded divot of MaFooFan! I am not sure if the quarters are a bit too closed. Also, I requested a peak lapel on this tweed to be a bit daring, I wonder if I should change that now?
I am requesting additional input on what to ask for repair/ alteration to improve this jacket.

Thanks again all

Thanks in advance for any help / suggestions.

 

[Alx190]

Hello, everybody! I have a problem with my jackets, i don t know if the wrinkles are caused by the collar or something else. I want to know if somebody has some materials(video, pictures, etc) which explain the alteration you need to do for different kind of body posture. I want to mention that i ve tried to make it larger on that area (i have enough extra fabric in middle) but the result was the same. Thank you!