The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

    Messages:
    4,199
    Likes Received:
    239
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2011
    Location:
    Liquidating Assets
    Three different shirts, is it normal for the location and size of the darts to vary? I have over 15 of these OCBD shirts (typical RL OCBD) from my pre sf days and I do not want to get ride of them, they are practically new.

    The shirts are OCBD and I wear them untucked, I am 5'11-6'00

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012
  2. mjt73106

    mjt73106 Senior member

    Messages:
    292
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2012
    Location:
    Southern Plains
    IMO the jacket is much too small for you in both length and sleeve.

    Check out this video for how the fit works;

     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    The line where the shoulder and sleeve are sewn is a bit too vertical or perpendicular to the floor like so II. If shoulder was extended a bit, the upper body would have more of a V shape to emphasize the chest and shoulder.




    Going MTM is starting from scratch unless you get MTM from the maker of this jacket, using this pattern.

    It's about matching the height and width of the sleeve to the armhole. Armholes change shape on anyone who wears the jacket according to their shoulder and chest shape.


    Maybe, I'm not sure. It's more about emphasizing the chest and shoulder
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Lift the back lining and you should be able to see how much shoulder padding is there. When the shoulder pad is removed there will either be a gap between your shoulder and the jacket or your shoulder will fill it in. Better if it's the latter.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    This might be the right size but the cut is not fitting you well. The fronts are very short and are crossing over in front. They are scissoring in tailor speak. Not correctable.If this is a regular, try a long.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Are you doing this work yourself?

    I can't make out enough detail due to the darkness of the shots on my monitor and hard to judge accurately with no full length shots.

    How much do the fronts overlap each other?

    Be careful how much you shorten the body, a little goes a long way.

    I rarely, if ever shape the back at the center back seam. Better to divide the amount in half and reduce on the sides of the back part.

    Balance is excellent. You are off to a good start.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    I wouldn't put darts on a shirt with a box pleat. Doesn't look right, actually, it looks terrible.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006

    Not good advice, would ignore
     
  9. smashwindow

    smashwindow Senior member

    Messages:
    2,233
    Likes Received:
    1,085
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2012
    Location:
    Boulder
    I think it might work, the problem is I have is that I already have 21" shoulders that are quite square (very little drop from bottom of neck to top of shoulder) adding pads to that, makes me look like a linebacker. Hopefully I can have this done for under 2-3 bills is there a resource for finding local tailors on here?
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Talk to Susan at Studio Bernina, It's on Arapahoe. if she can't help you she will recommend someone. Mention my name

    Shoulder looks narrow on that jacket.
     
  11. smashwindow

    smashwindow Senior member

    Messages:
    2,233
    Likes Received:
    1,085
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2012
    Location:
    Boulder
    I bought for shoulders to fit since thats what usually is impossible to change planning on having chest and waist taken in a couple inches. That place looks great I might have to take some additional classes i'm taking sewing 1 as an elective right now [​IMG]
     
  12. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

    Messages:
    243
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2008
    

    Thanks Chris. Yes, I'm making it. I have attempted to change a few things (let the fronts out at the shoulders, reduced shoulder inlays to 1cm, basted darts properly. Still having problems with the back - I fiddled with the scye a little, but I think it's still causing drags. Here's a brightened shot in better light - can't zoom out enough for full length in the small room. Still raining outside; I'll try to do proper shots tomorrow. Overlap/wrap is 13cm edge to edge. I've taken the pins out of the back and removed 0,5cm from each side instead

    [​IMG]
     
  13. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

    Messages:
    218
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Despos, what do you think about shirts just with darts (without pleat) ? I bought recently 2 kiton shirts made for European market, they have darts (my other kiton shirts don't have darts) they fit really good but i still hesitate to remove the darts. I am afraid that this will make the waist as large as the chest which is not good. Would you recommend to remove darts ? Many thanks.
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Darts are fine but an oxymoron with a shirt cut with a box pleat. Taper the ocbd's on the side seams and no darts.
    Kiton shirts are fine with darts unless you have a specific reason to remove them.
     
  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Here is a front and side view of the same trousers draping "correctly". Given how I'm shaped I'm not sure anything could be done to make future purchases look better other than dropping some more "love" off these love handles... :)

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by