The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. EvilTuna7

    EvilTuna7 Well-Known Member

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    Hey everyone,

    I picked up a Suitsupply Jort recently and wanted to get some opinions on fit/look. I've been reading this forum a bit but I've never bought a nice suit before, so some advice would be great. This suit hasn't been tailored yet. I'm planning on buying some darker brown double monks to go with this, does that sound alright? Thanks for the help!


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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  2. Citan1145

    Citan1145 Senior member

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    ^ Fwiw I think it looks good. Maybe a bit tight across the back but I am no tailor. May i suggest getting some brown lace ups if you don't have them before the monks. Not saying you don;t have them but if you don't that is..
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The trousers are fine unless you are as OCD as I am. Have the back hem dropped down. Looks better over your shoe when the hem is sloped/angled longer in the back. Take in the back part on the out seam from the waistband to mid thigh. Back part only, 1/4 to 3/8" just to smooth out the line and get rid of the little bulge at the bottom of the front pocket. These comments are optional, trouser looks fine as is.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice Jort. Looks fine at this camera angle but I don't get any idea of how it actually fits you from pictures at this distance.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These lightened up pictures help to see more. Few questions/comments for you. This is a very ambitious project.

    The balance is different now, fronts are still short even though you dropped the fronts down from the shoulder. Time to shorten the back from the top of the shoulder, start by reducing by 1/2". This will lift the back off your hips and bring more cloth from the front to the back. Then you can shape the waist more and get some waist definition.
    Are you shortening the jacket to the horizontal line just above the hem? Looks about right.
    What are the two horizontal lines on the canvass about 1/3rd up on the lapels from the buttoning point ? You made your own canvass, correct?
    It's hard to judge how much, but the back is too wide across the blades and upper back, shoulders too. You might need to slope either the front or back shoulder 1/4" to clean up the blade but wait until you baste a sleeve to determine this.
    What are the basting threads along the center back seam there for?
    The front darts are located too much to the side/back. Would be better if you move them towards the front edge. Usually the dart is centered under the breast pocket.
    Does this pattern use a side body?
    The overlap is fine, it puts the button about 11.5 cm from the edge. I like a bit more and would add about 1 cm to the front edge. Get the jacket balanced before trimming the front edge. As the balance changes so does the overlap.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  6. EvilTuna7

    EvilTuna7 Well-Known Member

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    Alright, is this any better? I noticed that the collar of the jacket isn't sitting perfectly on my neck/shoulder but im not sure if that's an issue with the suit or i just didn't properly settle (for lack of a better word) the suit when i put it on. Thanks again for your help!

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  7. EvilTuna7

    EvilTuna7 Well-Known Member

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    Alright, do these help more? I noticed the collar of the suit isn't resting perfectly on my neck/shoulder but I don't know if that's an issue with the suit or i just didn't let the suit settle properly (for lack of a better word) when I put it on. Thanks a lot!

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, new pictures are better. You need some shoulder/collar work in two different ways. You may have squarish shoulders and need the shoulder squared, This means the jacket shoulder slope is more than the slope of your shoulder and the collar stands up off your neck. You also have an erect posture and that could be contributing. This requires removing more off the back shoulder than the front shoulder.
    A good tailor will diagnose and can fix this. Depending on the degree of adjustment needed on the shoulders, you may need the collar shortened.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  9. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    gents

    i swear this suit fit better when i first got it but perhaps its loosened up a bit with use or maybe ive changed shape slightly, regardless ive got some fit issues now. i wont guide the conversation but i want to know what to tell me tailor to get a better fit

    thanks in advance

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] i dont think i'll get any love for these shoes but i thought id include 'em for funzies
     
  10. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    I've made about five coats before and about twenty pairs of trousers, so I'm comfortable with the sewing process. The fit of them left a bit to be desired though - the last one was that grey birdseye.

    Thanks for the balance tip. The line chalked above the hem was the original hem on the draft - I tend to just leave it until I sort out the rest of the fitting issues. The lines on the canvas lapels are 1cm x 10cm darts + silesia - I always put small darts on the canvas at the lapel on DB coats to help them wrap around the chest. I don't dart the cloth, but rather work the excess in when pad stitching the lapel.

    There is no sidebody, just an underarm dart - I figure that my chest/hip ratio is close enough that I don't need a sidebody? Certainly, sidebody drafts I have attempted have not fitted very well in the front. I'll move the darts around the front a little as suggested. Basting threads at the back are just visible from where I have basted the two back pieces together. Thanks for the tip about overlap and button placement. I'll look at the front edge after getting the balance right and moving the darts around.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What did you change regarding the fit?

    This is new to me and don't comprehend the intention or the effect it has on the lapel
     
  12. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    Bringing it to the experts.

    This is a bespoke suit. What would you change about it?

    N.B. I use this suit primarily for performing piano and voice, so I asked for extra room at the back to allow for comfortable extention of my arms.

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  13. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Hi Guys,

    Will appreciate your (especially the excellent Mr Despos's) comments on the fit of this DB. The cloth is a 8/9oz old H.Lesser SFT. I absolutely love this cloth.

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Suit looks pretty good. Your blades are high and prominent and cause a little issue under the collar in back. Left blade seems more prominent. May be causing the collar to pull away a bit on the left side, very minor. Is this no vent and if so, your idea or the tailor's? He did a good job fitting your posture.
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a very rough basting and will change much after this. Will you get another basted fitting? This type of basted try on is done up very quickly and then everything removed from the canvass. That's good, you can still change everything.

    A side view would be very helpful.

    The sleeve length and jacket hem are almost on the same line. Gives off a ladies proportion. If I were making this, I would give you another basted fitting with a longer length. Would try 1 inch longer and move the buttons down.
    You want to avoid looking too narrow on the shoulders and wide on the hips. Might be the camera angle and distance, but I would watch out for that as the jacket progresses.

    Front edge should be more perpendicular to the floor. Back looks good.

    First time I have ever seen a tailor baste up the outlet of the sleeves on the outside of the sleeve rather than turn it under.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2012

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