The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

I put the seam over the boldest point on the shoulder because if you add cloth/length it puts the cloth at the point where it’s most needed. There is stretching the canvass and working extra cloth over the shoulder point. The shoulder line has to match the shoulder slope

 

[Despos]

Oh I might still be getting this completely wrong, but is the shifting of the shoulder done in the alteration because the only way to square a shoulder on a finished garment is to lower at the neck, where as at the cutting stage, you could raise at the end of the shoulder, thus not needing to take away cloth from by the neck?

Yes to the squaring part, no to the shifting. The twisting is caused by not enough back. The back is narrow and pulling towards the center seam causing the twist. Shifting the front away from the neck creates more cloth across the back and allows the jacket to move forward and relax on the shoulder.

 

[Despos]

Hold the jacket by your hand under the shoulder. What is the direction of the sleeve seam? The seam of the sleeve attaching to the body. Is it straight like this “I” or is it slanted outward on the back and angled inwards towards the front part? I think you will grasp what I’m asking

 

[CorozoButton]

Hold the jacket by your hand under the shoulder. What is the direction of the sleeve seam? The seam of the sleeve attaching to the body. Is it straight like this “I” or is it slanted outward on the back and angled inwards towards the front part? I think you will grasp what I’m asking

I'm so sorry, but I'm really struggling to understand this. Are you asking for this?

 

[Camillo]

You have thoroughly researched the topic of how well-fitting pants should fit and therefore have high expectations. Now when you want to check if this type of trousers suits you, you have to find a tailor at a sufficiently high level - RTW will most definitely fail here (or maybe you're lucky and you will fit into the off-the-rack pattern of some brand).

If I may suggest a maker other than D&S, from personal experience I recommend Collaro. Not to be groundless, bellow is my first pair of trousers (done completely remotely) made by them, preceded by a test pair:

View attachment 1542555 View attachment 1542554 View attachment 1542556

There are still some issues to be fixed (like for example my lower left hip, it's a little exaggerated in these photos I believe) but the result is very good IMO (sorry for the mismatched t-shirt and shoes).

As a follow up, here's my secon pair made by Collaro after some minor adjustments:

 

[acapaca]

Seat looks smooth as a baby's butt. Are the pleats pulling a touch?

 

[Despos]

As a follow up, here's my secon pair made by Collaro after some minor adjustments:

View attachment 1559569

These fit well and look great

 

[Despos]

I'm so sorry, but I'm really struggling to understand this. Are you asking for this?
View attachment 1559552

Don't see any shape in this jacket shoulder. Your physical shoulder has contours and curves. Shaping the canvass at the shoulder creates the same shape so the jacket shoulder rests naturally on your shoulder. Looks like a combo fitting and construction cause to the twisting.
Forget about the angle of the sleeve seam comment, it's a bit too esoteric.

 

[Camillo]

Seat looks smooth as a baby's butt. Are the pleats pulling a touch?

Hard to say. Daylight falls from the side and maybe exaggerate the problem a bit. Maybe it could also be because of my poor ironing.Too much maybe, @Despos , your professional input is always appreciated!

 

[Despos]

Pleats look alright to me. Wouldn’t fuss about it

 

[Kevin24]

Post a picture showing the sleeve style/construction. Can’t answer without seeing what needs to be done. The sleeve style is the issue not that it’s waxed cotton.

Apologies for my late reply. Here is a pic of the sleeve.

 

[Despos]

Apologies for my late reply. Here is a pic of the sleeve.

View attachment 1561429
More like shortening a shirt sleeve than a jacket sleeve. remove the cuff and probably the placket and sew it on again, placket adds more time and work. Not a big deal to do.

 

[Kevin24]

Thank you, that is good to know.

Will the material make any difference in the cost?

 

[Despos]

Don’t think so. Sometimes these are complicated by how the lining is attached or how the placket is made. If the construction is simple it takes less time. Don’t see how the cloth type would effect anything.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

I feel like we should add 'from Despos' to the end of the thread title.