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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Jacket looks too long
     


  3. Rylsa

    Rylsa Senior Member

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    Thank you for kindly sharing your opinion.

    I am thinking of the following changes: +0.5 cm to the trousers at the hip and +2 cm to the thigh, knee and rear. Will that be a good reiteration of the reverse pleat? I would like to obtain both a 'fuller cut' whilst being 'slim'. I don't think it's an oxymoron as I have seen it done (perhaps on rather well made bespoke trousers). I don't have a tailor to fit me with online mtm, so it's probably the best I can do for now.
     


  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you see how the pleats are pulling open? .5cm won' solve that. Hopefully widening the leg will help. You will need a tailor to repress the crease , so it hangs straight. I would like to see a photo where the inverted pleats work with a very slim leg without looking odd
     


  5. ter1413

    ter1413 Stylish Dinosaur

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  6. Rylsa

    Rylsa Senior Member

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    I am actually unsure. Seems to me that it might actually be an issue with the pattern? I laid the trousers flat on my bed and the pleats look like the are already pulling:

    IMG-4739.jpg

    IMG-4740.jpg

    Will be great to have some direction or to hear your thoughts, thank you.

    Sorry, didn't wear them with shoes at that time as I thought the break was fine. There were other issues concerning the reverse pleats that I was concerned with, thanks!
     


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Are these made of linen? Wool will go back to the original. Linen will not. The hip is still to tight to lay properly
     


  8. Rylsa

    Rylsa Senior Member

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    Yes, these are linen trousers indeed.

    I see. Would you suggest increasing the hip by 2cm? Thank you.
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Show me a photo of what you are trying to replicate
     


  10. Rylsa

    Rylsa Senior Member

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    PM sent!
     


  11. Andy_00

    Andy_00 Senior Member

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    What changes should be requested for a shirt pattern to fit better for round/forward shoulders?

    I tend to find that my shoulders push forward into the armhole seam, but i didnt just want to increase the total armhole size as it is very baggy at the back around the armhole.
     


  12. Oshare

    Oshare Senior Member

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    I'm planning to shorten the sleeves on this suit a bit, and looking for suggestions on what else I should consider adjusting.

    20180604.jpg

    This is an OTR Oxxford suit. I've long defaulted to "relaxed fit" because it is roomy and comfortable, but now thinking about:
    • Taking in the waist of the jacket a bit to give it more shape
    • Taking in the thigh area on the pants, which I think are much to baggy
    • Wondering if I should try to do anything about the rear of the jacket sleeves and the bunching fabric, but I believe this is a rather difficult alteration without completely repositioning the sleeves?
    Could anyone offer advice or have any other suggestions?

    Thanks!
     


  13. paxonus

    paxonus Senior Member

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    I wouldn't shorten the sleeves. You have already have some cuff showing. As for the trousers, that will be difficult. They are pulling at your calf. Altering the thigh may make that even more pronounced. It looks like you need more room at the back of the thigh, and less on the front. I have no idea how to do that, but a tailor may.
     


  14. aerogaa

    aerogaa Member

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    Hi guys,

    I recently asked my tailor to correct the shoulder pitch (backward bunching) by rotating the suit sleeves. However after the adjustment, there seems to be divots appearing on my shoulders and the side of my arms seem to more curved.

    The shoulders feel slightly tighter when put on. Whilst I suspect the tailor would not have shorten the shoulder width or cut the sleeveheads (and there's no reason to), it makes me wonder what the cause to this issue is. When I compare the before (with darker background in photo grid) and after photos (lighter backgrounds), there seems to be little difference in the shoulder length to my untrained eyes. My pose also affects how the divots may show.

    I will be taking the suit back to my tailor for fixing later this month, but would like to be specific in addressing this. I would appreciate any advice on what the (root cause) issue is and whether this can be reversed/fixed.

    PhotoGrid_1528043502687-01.jpeg

    PhotoGrid_1528043158430-01.jpeg

    20180604_133658.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2018


  15. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior Member

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    Considering that the armhole is not round but oval, you cannot just rotate the sleeve and keep the seams in place. Assuming just a slight rotation and assuming there is some reserve in the cloth, the job should not be too difficult. Problem could be caused by insufficient experience and/or missing reserves and/or improperly restored wadding. Discuss with your tailor.
     


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