The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Shirtmaven]

How's the fit on this linen blazer?

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Sleeves are unfinished and will get shortened, buttons attached, etc., also ignore the shoes/socks/pants (not the slightest clue as to why they crease the way they do in the back, will be bringing them to the tailor as well, any ideas?), I just needed to try it on real quick.

Thanks in advance!

Jacket looks too long

 

[Rylsa]

Wow
Not subtle
First the collar of the shirt screams. "Look at my big rolling collar"
Pants..
This is a very old military style cut up top.
But. This style shoud be cut full in the seat and legs.
Let out the seat. Not sure what the outlets are too make the leg fuller.

You are bow legged. The tight lower portion accentuates the issue.
If you are going retro. Stay true. This looks like a mistake

Thank you for kindly sharing your opinion.

I am thinking of the following changes: +0.5 cm to the trousers at the hip and +2 cm to the thigh, knee and rear. Will that be a good reiteration of the reverse pleat? I would like to obtain both a 'fuller cut' whilst being 'slim'. I don't think it's an oxymoron as I have seen it done (perhaps on rather well made bespoke trousers). I don't have a tailor to fit me with online mtm, so it's probably the best I can do for now.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Thank you for kindly sharing your opinion.

I am thinking of the following changes: +0.5 cm to the trousers at the hip and +2 cm to the thigh, knee and rear. Will that be a good reiteration of the reverse pleat? I would like to obtain both a 'fuller cut' whilst being 'slim'. I don't think it's an oxymoron as I have seen it done (perhaps on rather well made bespoke trousers). I don't have a tailor to fit me with online mtm, so it's probably the best I can do for now.

Do you see how the pleats are pulling open? .5cm won' solve that. Hopefully widening the leg will help. You will need a tailor to repress the crease , so it hangs straight. I would like to see a photo where the inverted pleats work with a very slim leg without looking odd

 

[ter1413]

Recently received my custom MTM trousers from Luxire. Wrote in to get some feedback but thought a second opinion would be helpful too. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

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Put shoes on. Repost pictures.
(Unless you usually go shoeless with trousers.)

 

[Rylsa]

Do you see how the pleats are pulling open? .5cm won' solve that. Hopefully widening the leg will help. You will need a tailor to repress the crease , so it hangs straight. I would like to see a photo where the inverted pleats work with a very slim leg without looking odd

I am actually unsure. Seems to me that it might actually be an issue with the pattern? I laid the trousers flat on my bed and the pleats look like the are already pulling:





Will be great to have some direction or to hear your thoughts, thank you.

Put shoes on. Repost pictures.
(Unless you usually go shoeless with trousers.)

Sorry, didn't wear them with shoes at that time as I thought the break was fine. There were other issues concerning the reverse pleats that I was concerned with, thanks!

 

[Shirtmaven]

I am actually unsure. Seems to me that it might actually be an issue with the pattern? I laid the trousers flat on my bed and the pleats look like the are already pulling:

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Will be great to have some direction or to hear your thoughts, thank you.



Sorry, didn't wear them with shoes at that time as I thought the break was fine. There were other issues concerning the reverse pleats that I was concerned with, thanks!

Are these made of linen? Wool will go back to the original. Linen will not. The hip is still to tight to lay properly

 

[Rylsa]

Are these made of linen? Wool will go back to the original. Linen will not. The hip is still to tight to lay properly

Yes, these are linen trousers indeed.

I see. Would you suggest increasing the hip by 2cm? Thank you.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Yes, these are linen trousers indeed.

I see. Would you suggest increasing the hip by 2cm? Thank you.

Show me a photo of what you are trying to replicate

 

[Rylsa]

Show me a photo of what you are trying to replicate

PM sent!

 

[Andy_00]

What changes should be requested for a shirt pattern to fit better for round/forward shoulders?

I tend to find that my shoulders push forward into the armhole seam, but i didnt just want to increase the total armhole size as it is very baggy at the back around the armhole.

 

[Oshare]

I'm planning to shorten the sleeves on this suit a bit, and looking for suggestions on what else I should consider adjusting.

This is an OTR Oxxford suit. I've long defaulted to "relaxed fit" because it is roomy and comfortable, but now thinking about:

• Taking in the waist of the jacket a bit to give it more shape
• Taking in the thigh area on the pants, which I think are much to baggy
• Wondering if I should try to do anything about the rear of the jacket sleeves and the bunching fabric, but I believe this is a rather difficult alteration without completely repositioning the sleeves?

Could anyone offer advice or have any other suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[paxonus]

I wouldn't shorten the sleeves. You have already have some cuff showing. As for the trousers, that will be difficult. They are pulling at your calf. Altering the thigh may make that even more pronounced. It looks like you need more room at the back of the thigh, and less on the front. I have no idea how to do that, but a tailor may.

 

[aerogaa]

Hi guys,

I recently asked my tailor to correct the shoulder pitch (backward bunching) by rotating the suit sleeves. However after the adjustment, there seems to be divots appearing on my shoulders and the side of my arms seem to more curved.

The shoulders feel slightly tighter when put on. Whilst I suspect the tailor would not have shorten the shoulder width or cut the sleeveheads (and there's no reason to), it makes me wonder what the cause to this issue is. When I compare the before (with darker background in photo grid) and after photos (lighter backgrounds), there seems to be little difference in the shoulder length to my untrained eyes. My pose also affects how the divots may show.

I will be taking the suit back to my tailor for fixing later this month, but would like to be specific in addressing this. I would appreciate any advice on what the (root cause) issue is and whether this can be reversed/fixed.

 

[zr3rs]

I recently asked my tailor to correct the shoulder pitch (backward bunching) by rotating the suit sleeves. However after the rotation adjustment, there seems to be divots appearing on my shoulders.

Considering that the armhole is not round but oval, you cannot just rotate the sleeve and keep the seams in place. Assuming just a slight rotation and assuming there is some reserve in the cloth, the job should not be too difficult. Problem could be caused by insufficient experience and/or missing reserves and/or improperly restored wadding. Discuss with your tailor.

 

[aerogaa]

Considering that the armhole is not round but oval, you cannot just rotate the sleeve and keep the seams in place. Assuming just a slight rotation and assuming there is some reserve in the cloth, the job should not be too difficult. Problem could be caused by insufficient experience and/or missing reserves and/or improperly restored wadding. Discuss with your tailor.

Thanks @zr3rs, I would suspect there is slight misalignment in the width and height between the the sleevehead and the sleeve armhole and that's causing the divots. However I am a bit puzzled why it now appears that the side of my arms are pushing outward forming a curvature on the sleeves. Shouldn't this be an issue when the shoulders are taken in (although I cannot see any change in the shoulder width)?