The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[chrisphr]

And remember, you would need at LEAST 3 fittings after being measured to be properly suited up IMO.

I have heard that, unfortunately only was passing through for the day. Did measurements, then used a shell to tune in the fit best that could be done in one day. Figured that would get me close enough to have a local tailor make some finishing tweaks. We'll see.

 

[FlimFlam85]

I'm back with a second version of Luxire pants. Aloysius16's advice to increase the rear rise at crotch was very helpful.

Here are the changes I made from the first version:

• Decrease waist by 0.25"
• Increase hip by 0.25"
• Increase front rise at crotch by 0.25"
• Increase back rise at crotch by 0.50"
• Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.25"
• Increase upper thigh by 0.25"
• Decrease front and back rise at waist by 0.5"
• Decrease outseam at waist by 0.5"

Attached is the resulting pair. These are already the best-fitting pair of trousers I own and definitely feel like I'm working towards an even better fit.

For the next version, I'm thinking I need to increase the inseam by 0.5" and increase the rear rise at crotch a tad ~0.25"... But am at a loss for how to clean up the bunching at the seat. Luxire advised we "scoop the seat a bit to ease the issue." Was wondering if I should also shorten the rear rise to somehow pull-up the back (which helps alleviate some of the folding when I do it myself) to offset my hip's forward tilt? Any suggestions would be really appreciated!

 

[stifler]

Hello Gentleman,

I'm thinking of buying this coat from NM, but I'm not a fan of ticket pockets. Would it be possible to close a ticket pocket? I'm thinking a reweaver can just close the ticket pocket with the flap that would have to be removed to get rid of said ticket pocket (there is definitely enough fabric for that). I've searched for this on the forum, but haven't gotten a definitive reply. Here is the coat in question:

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/Neiman-...d%3D200831&eItemId=prod191600107&cmCat=search

Thank you gentlemen!

 

[98muted]

I received my Kent Wang suit yesterday, looks pretty good for the first try. I really like the fabric (a mid-grey herringbone) and the process was extremely easy, and really nice guys to work with. Here are some bad pictures, suit has not been pressed or anything, so I think it will settle in, and pants haven't been hemmed. The pants are a little slim for my taste, but I have skinny legs...so deciding whether to alter them at all.

I will be taking it to the tailor to get the pants hemmed, and wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions on changes to make.

 

[Shirtmaven]

I received my Kent Wang suit yesterday, looks pretty good for the first try. I really like the fabric (a mid-grey herringbone) and the process was extremely easy, and really nice guys to work with. Here are some bad pictures, suit has not been pressed or anything, so I think it will settle in, and pants haven't been hemmed. The pants are a little slim for my taste, but I have skinny legs...so deciding whether to alter them at all.

I will be taking it to the tailor to get the pants hemmed, and wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions on changes to make.

nice
push some fabric up from upper back under the collar.

next time, make the jacket 1/2" longer

just looked at the pants
take a photo with the jacket off and your legs together.

 

[ThomGault]

I received my Kent Wang suit yesterday, looks pretty good for the first try. I really like the fabric (a mid-grey herringbone) and the process was extremely easy, and really nice guys to work with. Here are some bad pictures, suit has not been pressed or anything, so I think it will settle in, and pants haven't been hemmed. The pants are a little slim for my taste, but I have skinny legs...so deciding whether to alter them at all.

I will be taking it to the tailor to get the pants hemmed, and wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions on changes to make.

I understand your rationale about narrow trouser legs because of your natural legs, but those look really skinny. The nice thing about tailored clothing is that it can hide and compensate for natural physical peculiarities, but I think the trousers are just accentuating your narrow frame.

 

[98muted]

I understand your rationale about narrow trouser legs because of your natural legs, but those look really skinny. The nice thing about tailored clothing is that it can hide and compensate for natural physical peculiarities, but I think the trousers are just accentuating your narrow frame.

Completely agree, I was just noting why they were so skinny, as the measurements were probably fine. I took them to the tailor today, and there was plenty of room to let them out through the thigh and taper down accordingly. He's taking the waist in a tiny bit on the jacket and cleaning up the upper back. Overall I'm pretty happy with it for a first try. I am already looking forward to ordering something new with the noted changes!

 

[Shirtmaven]

Hello Gentleman,

I'm thinking of buying this coat from NM, but I'm not a fan of ticket pockets. Would it be possible to close a ticket pocket? I'm thinking a reweaver can just close the ticket pocket with the flap that would have to be removed to get rid of said ticket pocket (there is definitely enough fabric for that). I've searched for this on the forum, but haven't gotten a definitive reply. Here is the coat in question:

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/Neiman-Marcus-Camel-Hair-Single-Breasted-Topcoat-camel-coat-mens/prod191600107___/p.prod?icid=&searchType=MAIN&rte=%2FeSearch.jsp%3FN%3D0%26Ntt%3Dcamel%2Bcoat%2Bmens%26from%3DbrSearchExcep%26_requestid%3D200831&eItemId=prod191600107&cmCat=search

Thank you gentlemen!

nope... can't be done...
weaving a pocket closed would cost more then the coat.

 

[ovlov]

Hi Peoples,
I am in the middle of getting my first bespoke suit done by a local tailor. I feel a little out of my depth and caught up in it all so I don't notice some things when I go in for the fitting. However looking at photos from my recent 2nd fitting I noticed that the notch in my lapel seems VERY small. I am wondering whether that is something to do with the way the suit is made (so it will be larger once it is finished or is this just a very small notch? Should I be asking my tailor to enlarge it a bit? I don't recall it being so small so it may just be the angle of the photo but it has me worried.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Hi Peoples,
I am in the middle of getting my first bespoke suit done by a local tailor. I feel a little out of my depth and caught up in it all so I don't notice some things when I go in for the fitting. However looking at photos from my recent 2nd fitting I noticed that the notch in my lapel seems VERY small. I am wondering whether that is something to do with the way the suit is made (so it will be larger once it is finished or is this just a very small notch? Should I be asking my tailor to enlarge it a bit? I don't recall it being so small so it may just be the angle of the photo but it has me worried.

View attachment 809136

The notch has not been snapped yet.
The fusible on the lapel is an interesting touch on a bespoke suit.

 

[ovlov]

The notch has not been snapped yet.
The fusible on the lapel is an interesting touch on a bespoke suit.

Uh Oh. I have no idea what you are talking about but you have me worried.

At the price point I'm getting this at I was a little concerned it would not end up up to snuff but thought I would given him a try since I am starved for choices in my town. Since it's my first go round I am not even sure what to look for. The fact it is being made from scratch clearly in the tailors workshop surely makes it bespoke though... right...?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Uh Oh. I have no idea what you are talking about but you have me worried.

At the price point I'm getting this at I was a little concerned it would not end up up to snuff but thought I would given him a try since I am starved for choices in my town. Since it's my first go round I am not even sure what to look for. The fact it is being made from scratch clearly in the tailors workshop surely makes it bespoke though... right...?

If he is making tbe sukt in his shop, you are getting a custom made suit. I am not a fan of the term bespoke.
The fusible is not the worst tho g in the world. It can help stabilize the fabric.
At the end, if you are happy with fit and price then don't worry.

 

[ovlov]

If he is making tbe sukt in his shop, you are getting a custom made suit. I am not a fan of the term bespoke.
The fusible is not the worst tho g in the world. It can help stabilize the fabric.
At the end, if you are happy with fit and price then don't worry.

Thanks for the reassurance. I forgot to ask though. What do you mean by 'the notch has not been snapped yet'. does that mean it will get bigger? or I should ask to have it fixed?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Sorry about my lack of spell Check
It has not been shaped yet

 

[ericjens7]

Hi Peoples,
I am in the middle of getting my first bespoke suit done by a local tailor. I feel a little out of my depth and caught up in it all so I don't notice some things when I go in for the fitting. However looking at photos from my recent 2nd fitting I noticed that the notch in my lapel seems VERY small. I am wondering whether that is something to do with the way the suit is made (so it will be larger once it is finished or is this just a very small notch? Should I be asking my tailor to enlarge it a bit? I don't recall it being so small so it may just be the angle of the photo but it has me worried.

View attachment 809136

The fact that there is fusing on the lapel is a bad sign and in my opinion shows laziness on the part of the tailor.
As far as the lapel width goes it cannot be and will not be made any larger. However there seems to be a notch more near the center of the lapel which maybe where the tailor intends to attach the collar. The photo you posted seems to be misleading because at first glance the lapel looks tiny and so does the collar. I hope that you have a good enough relationship with your tailor that you can ask him. Also, have you seen his other work? How did the collar and lapel ratio look on other coats? Did you have a conversation about lapel width prior to this fitting? The dynamic between a tailor and client is one of relationship. There has to be open dialogue and respect given.