The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ovlov]

The fact that there is fusing on the lapel is a bad sign and in my opinion shows laziness on the part of the tailor.
As far as the lapel width goes it cannot be and will not be made any larger. However there seems to be a notch more near the center of the lapel which maybe where the tailor intends to attach the collar. The photo you posted seems to be misleading because at first glance the lapel looks tiny and so does the collar. I hope that you have a good enough relationship with your tailor that you can ask him. Also, have you seen his other work? How did the collar and lapel ratio look on other coats? Did you have a conversation about lapel width prior to this fitting? The dynamic between a tailor and client is one of relationship. There has to be open dialogue and respect given.

This is my first suit with this tailor. At our first meeting I wore my best fitting suit and discussed with him what I did and did not like about the style and fit. In particular I noted that I liked the fairly wide lapel so he copied the width of the suit I had (8.5cm)

perhaps these pics may help give a better assessment of the lapel and collar width. My understanding is there will be at least 2 more fittings and so I thought any other issues would be gradually fixed before I saw the end result

 

[PeteyPajamapant]

Figured I'd post this here too since this is a problem with most dress pants for me. I just got a pair of Eidos dress pants, and I have pocket flare/some tightness in the front. Is there anything I can do about this?

I usually try sizing up, but then I end up having to take so much out of the waist that it messes up the seat of the pants. I'm a 32 waist, so I usually go up to 34 at least (these are 34). Things get dicey when I have to go up to 36...

 

[ThomGault]

Figured I'd post this here too since this is a problem with most dress pants for me. I just got a pair of Eidos dress pants, and I have pocket flare/some tightness in the front. Is there anything I can do about this?

I usually try sizing up, but then I end up having to take so much out of the waist that it messes up the seat of the pants. I'm a 32 waist, so I usually go up to 34 at least (these are 34). Things get dicey when I have to go up to 36...

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I'm no tailor, but I think the technical term is "too tight in the crotch." Do you want to be comfortable, or do you want to show off your package?

 

[PeteyPajamapant]

Welp. I guess you're right.

 

[Tastethesoup]

Do you want to be comfortable, or do you want to show off your package?

Why not both?

 

[PeteyPajamapant]

Why not both?

Haha, I was going to say this, but I didn't want to make it seem like I didn't appreciate the advice.

 

[clee1982]

34 to 32 is fine but I wouldn't do 36 to 32

 

[GBR]

Hello Gentleman,

I'm thinking of buying this coat from NM, but I'm not a fan of ticket pockets. Would it be possible to close a ticket pocket? I'm thinking a reweaver can just close the ticket pocket with the flap that would have to be removed to get rid of said ticket pocket (there is definitely enough fabric for that). I've searched for this on the forum, but haven't gotten a definitive reply. Here is the coat in question:

http://www.neimanmarcus.com/Neiman-Marcus-Camel-Hair-Single-Breasted-Topcoat-camel-coat-mens/prod191600107___/p.prod?icid=&searchType=MAIN&rte=%2FeSearch.jsp%3FN%3D0%26Ntt%3Dcamel%2Bcoat%2Bmens%26from%3DbrSearchExcep%26_requestid%3D200831&eItemId=prod191600107&cmCat=search

Thank you gentlemen!

No! All you can do is stitch it such you can't put anything in it but no more. What do you propose to do about the cut in the cloth? Playing about with the flap will simple turn the thing into something dreadful.

Get used to it or look for something else which meets your exacting standards.

 

[a tailor]

Figured I'd post this here too since this is a problem with most dress pants for me. I just got a pair of Eidos dress pants, and I have pocket flare/some tightness in the front. Is there anything I can do about this?

I usually try sizing up, but then I end up having to take so much out of the waist that it messes up the seat of the pants. I'm a 32 waist, so I usually go up to 34 at least (these are 34). Things get dicey when I have to go up to 36...

If the size 34 allows the pockets to lay flat then taking in 2" at the front only will do it.
Go to search and ask for 'tailors technical tutorials' scroll down to "gaping pockets'.
The tutort is more complex but the part part that is about the front is for you.
the trousers should be wool, because the trouser top must be shrunk to fit the smaller waist band.
,

 

[GAU11]

.

 

[Aloysius16]

Sometimes, MTM offers a 'flat seat' figuration adjustment. Does anyone know what particular alterations to pattern this is likely to introduce?

I perhaps need it, as I often find trousers to be loose across the seat, and sometimes need the crotch taken in also. However, if I buy/have made trousers where the total hip circumference ensures a good fit across the seat, the front is normally too tight between crotch and base of pockets, causing pockets to flare, creasing when I sit, etc.

 

[PatchedUp]

Any thoughts gentlemen?

bw

PU

Spoiler: Original message

Hello all,

First of all I would like to say that I have been lurking on these forums for a while now but only posting for the first time now.

I'm looking at getting some items from Luxire and thought I would post some pictures of my best fitting trousers - not perfect by any stretch of the imagination but I didn't think they were too bad for OTR.

Thoughts or suggestions? I apologise for the state the shirt is in, so please ignore it if you can!

My thoughts were that there was perhaps work needed around he seat to reduce the wrinkles a little and also to shorten the hem by perhaps half an inch to have a decent full break. I am very much new to all of this however so I'm sure that a more expert eye would be able to pick up much more.

Thank you in advance,

bw PU

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[a tailor]

HEY GUYS ;' CLEE-PETEY-GAUII- ALOYSIUS-PATCHEDUP.
I am surprised none of you have read the 'tailors tutorials' or you would have picked up on this.
Click the search ask for 'tailors technical tutorials'' scroll down to 'gaping pockets'.
There is a great deal of information waiting for you there. TRY IT SOME TIME.

 

[Aloysius16]

HEY GUYS ;' CLEE-PETEY-GAUII- ALOYSIUS-PATCHEDUP.
I am surprised none of you have read the 'tailors tutorials' or you would have picked up on this.
Click the search ask for 'tailors technical tutorials'' scroll down to 'gaping pockets'.
There is a great deal of information waiting for you there. TRY IT SOME TIME.

Yes, I have read your very informative content. In my case, I just wondered if a standard pattern adjustment for a 'flat seat' (as used in MTM programs for instance) was just a case of reducing the overall dimensions of the seat (I.e. The measurements of the back panel and the rear crotch) or whether something else tends to change - e.g, the balance of the trousers, seat angle, etc.

 

[a tailor]

There are several ways to flatten the seat.
Most M2m shops default change is to straighten the center back seam.