The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[TimelesStyle]



Finally picked up finished product, and tried on with the bow tie. I'm still not very skilled at tying a bow tie, however...

Lapels are black grosgrain as is piping on trousers (with satin in the middle maybe?)

Gorgeous, wear it in good health.

And don't worry about the bow; short of my dad (who wore bow ties every day for 25 years) I've never met anyone truly skilled at tying one, which becomes part of the charm of a "real" bow tie.

 

[NefariousSabatour]

Looks great Foxx.

 

[Veremund]



Finally picked up finished product, and tried on with the bow tie.

Looks great. Where'd you get it?

 

[Snoogz]

Love the lapels, foxx

 

[The_Foxx]

Thanks guys! It's from Barneys, gent I always work with did another wonderful job for me, and his personal tailor turned around alterations in two days (inc functional handstitched sleeve buttons and even a handsewn lapel buttonhole w flower loop on this one!).

 

[nyarkies]

That's the Sartorio midnight blue tux right? Really sharp foxx.

 

[TimelesStyle]

I'd been reading through some old BT threads on this forum and came across an interesting one on the whole mixing midnight and black issue, but rather than necro-posting, I figured I'd bring it up here:

There was an idea that when mixing the color of the facings and accessories (i.e. midnight facings, black accessories) that one should also mix the textures/materials. So, for example, if one's DJ has midnight satin facings, it would be better to do a black grosgrain tie/cummerbund than black satin.

At first it sounded a bit odd. Even crazy. But then I began to think about it and it started to make sense; you will avoid giving people the impression that you tried really hard to match, but either couldn't or, worse, didn't realize that your facings and accessories were different colors. Is this something people here would encourage? Or is that concept "sooooo '09" (when that thread was last updated)?

 

[StephenB]

Below are some pictures from my wedding back in May in Anguilla. I tried to stay relatively traditional to BT (within reason) except for the shoes. The jacket was a 36R Corey cream DJ which fit absolutely horribly (I'm a 36s) when I first got it. I wish I had a before picture. It fit like a 38L, I had my alterer shorten the jacket, sleeves, take in at the chest and waist. The result I believe turned out pretty darn well, it looks like a completely different jacket from what I started with.

Jacket: Corey cream DJ
Shirt: CT formal shirt
Tie: Drake Grosgrain
Cummerbund: Drakes Grosgrain
Studs: CT Stud set
Cuff links: Kent Wang

 

[archibaldleach]

Well played and congrats, @StephenB.

 

[ter1413]

Jacket looks great!

 

[Dashaansafin]



Hi Dash,

To me, the sleeve length looks good. Always nice to see a decent amount of cuff on show.

However, I would agree with a previous respondent and with your comments, that the shoulders look too broad, for your (slim) body type. I would definitely look at having those altered by a good tailor. I think personally that a little more work may be required by the tailor here, than simply addressing the padding, but I may be wrong.

Good luck!

Yea...my tailor said it would cost a lot repair in the back, and may not even work out. Ugh...****. Weddings in a month and I just need this off my back. Does anyone know of any brands in SS's price range, with a softer shoulder and more fitted? Thanks!

 

[nyarkies]

Try the Benjamin tux at ehaberdasher.com. It runs quite slim as far as I remember when I tried it on.

 

[TimelesStyle]



Weddings in a month and I just need this off my back.

Pun intended?! LOL.

As to your real question, about alternatives, I've heard that eHaberdasher's Benjamin line tuxes are pretty slim and are around the same price. Martin Greenfield for Gilt will cost more, about $400 more IIRC, but they make a "slim" version (and the regular already looks plenty slim) and it'll be a very nice suit.

And finally there's J. Crew, where at least you can order separates (though they are probably between SS and MG on price). If you do that, though, you should go with a shawl lapel and the peak has a two-button front.

 

[Van Veen]

I know there's been discussion of the white vest w/ black tie. I am watching The Maltese Falcon, and Peter Lorre's character wears a good example:

 

[TimelesStyle]



I'd been reading through some old BT threads on this forum and came across an interesting one on the whole mixing midnight and black issue, but rather than necro-posting, I figured I'd bring it up here:

There was an idea that when mixing the color of the facings and accessories (i.e. midnight facings, black accessories) that one should also mix the textures/materials. So, for example, if one's DJ has midnight satin facings, it would be better to do a black grosgrain tie/cummerbund than black satin.

At first it sounded a bit odd. Even crazy. But then I began to think about it and it started to make sense; you will avoid giving people the impression that you tried really hard to match, but either couldn't or, worse, didn't realize that your facings and accessories were different colors. Is this something people here would encourage? Or is that concept "sooooo '09" (when that thread was last updated)?

For reference, it's this thread; posts 43, 44 and 63:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/22452/midnight-blue-dinner-jacket-what-color-bow-tie/30