The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[The Dirty Pigeon]

After much planning, finally have ordered everything for my first black tie rig! Appreciate all the knowledge from this thread.

Have pulled the trigger on:

• Black single breasted, one button peak lapel tuxedo from No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara (wool/mohair blend from the Drapers Bingley bunch with satin facings)
• Covered placket tuxedo shirt from The Armoury x 100 Hands
• Cufflinks from Codis Maya
• Black satin bowtie and cummerbund from Sam Hober
• Will likely just get a high shine on my AE Park Avenues, rather than buy patent leather, but may change my mind on footwear as I get closer

Nice! Let’s see some photos when you’ve got it all sorted. Don’t forget a crisp white linen pocket square if you don’t have one. Hober is a great source for that as well.

 

[jeremygo]

Nice! Let’s see some photos when you’ve got it all sorted. Don’t forget a crisp white linen pocket square if you don’t have one. Hober is a great source for that as well.

There will be many photos! Yes, I have a Drake's white linen pocket square I picked up for my wedding I hope to repurpose - good call!

 

[hpreston]

Any idea what the brands are for this outfit? I won't lie, I really like it.

They’re listed in the pics that the poster took them from (IG account @UrbanComposition)

After much planning, finally have ordered everything for my first black tie rig! Appreciate all the knowledge from this thread.

Have pulled the trigger on:

• Black single breasted, one button peak lapel tuxedo from No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara (wool/mohair blend from the Drapers Bingley bunch with satin facings)
• Covered placket tuxedo shirt from The Armoury x 100 Hands
• Cufflinks from Codis Maya
• Black satin bowtie and cummerbund from Sam Hober
• Will likely just get a high shine on my AE Park Avenues, rather than buy patent leather, but may change my mind on footwear as I get closer

Some nice choices there. Yes, definitely need pics when all those bits come together.

 

[Lensmaster]

Because I am slim and regular fit looks very baggy in the body for me. Reviews for Hawes and Curtis are mixed. I think I will go bespoke, probably shawl collar.

Many people today have the image in their head that a very close fit, almost tight, is the proper look, and anything looser is baggy. Classic fit is not some specific dimensions that will look off on someone who is skinny or large. That impression can sadly be reinforced with some off the rack suits. Classic fit measurements vary on every person. The idea is for the jacket and pants to have enough room to hang nicely but not extra material. The extremes are todays suits being so tight they look like sausage casings, and the 1990s when suits were way too big. The best way to get a properly fitted suit is bespoke. The second best, which I do because I am not made of money, is to get a classic fit suit off the rack and have a tailor make adjustments to your body.

 

[DorianGreen]

 

[UrbanComposition]

Could @UrbanComposition (or anyone else who might know) tell me what the fabric is for the cuffs and lapels on this robe?

Cotton “astrakhan” (cotton pile, because as awesome as real astrakhan is, it’s also kinda gross).

 

[brax]

Cotton “astrakhan” (cotton pile, because as awesome as real astrakhan is, it’s also kinda gross).

Tofani used it as trim on the lapels of this coat. I have subsequently commissioned one in solid black for less contrast.

 

[classicalthunde]

Tofani used it as trim on the lapels of this coat. I have subsequently commissioned one in solid black for less contrast.
View attachment 2150961

that coat is so f*cking baller

 

[The Chai]

Took the opportunity to wear it out for the first time before the dog days of summer call it quits...

 

[DorianGreen]

Took the opportunity to wear it out for the first time before the dog days of summer call it quits... View attachment 2151801 View attachment 2151799
View attachment 2151795

Very nice, I love the wide leg trousers.

 

[sftiger]

Cotton “astrakhan” (cotton pile, because as awesome as real astrakhan is, it’s also kinda gross).

Wow I never knew what real astrakhan was. Wtf...

 

[The Chai]

I want an Astrakhan collar and hat...lamb foetes is delicious!

 

[brax]

Took the opportunity to wear it out for the first time before the dog days of summer call it quits... View attachment 2151801 View attachment 2151799
View attachment 2151795

Good stuff with a small stylistic quibble. The second row of buttons seems, at best, superfluous. The wide lapels really push the second row out very wide. Why not skip the second row as they are non-functional and a bit incongruous being so far out?

 

[The Chai]

Yeah I'm seriously considering removing the top row and having it as a 2x1 which still looks good....but I won't look like Humphrey bogart in Casablanca!!! 🥸😩

Good stuff with a small stylistic quibble. The second row of buttons seems, at best, superfluous. The wide lapels really push the second row out very wide. Why not skip the second row as they are non-functional and a bit incongruous being so far out

 

[DorianGreen]