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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Mark from Plano

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Ok. Zeroing in on the NYE wedding ensemble. Here are my current thoughts.

Jacket: Divij Bespoke/Hemrajani shawl lapel black watch dinner jacket.
Trousers: Black Steed MTM formal trousers

IMG_1392.jpeg


Shirt: Hemrajani formal shirt with faux pleat front.
Tie & Waist: Black grosgrain silk tie & cummerbund from Edward Armah.
Pocket Square: White silk with black pin dots by Robert Talbot
Braces: Trafalgar limited edition silk formal braces (“Puttin’ on the Ritz”)
Stud set: sterling silver and onyx by Jan Leslie
Shoes & Stockings: Red silk formal stockings from Ben Silver and black velvet slippers with crown motif from Bullock & Jones
Watch (not shown): 1920’s vintage IWC dress pocket watch in an 18k gold case on an 18k gold chain.
IMG_1397.jpeg


Thoughts?
 

dougc33

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Ok. Zeroing in on the NYE wedding ensemble. Here are my current thoughts.

Jacket: Divij Bespoke/Hemrajani shawl lapel black watch dinner jacket.
Trousers: Black Steed MTM formal trousers

View attachment 2067059

Shirt: Hemrajani formal shirt with faux pleat front.
Tie & Waist: Black grosgrain silk tie & cummerbund from Edward Armah.
Pocket Square: White silk with black pin dots by Robert Talbot
Braces: Trafalgar limited edition silk formal braces (“Puttin’ on the Ritz”)
Stud set: sterling silver and onyx by Jan Leslie
Shoes & Stockings: Red silk formal stockings from Ben Silver and black velvet slippers with crown motif from Bullock & Jones
Watch (not shown): 1920’s vintage IWC dress pocket watch in an 18k gold case on an 18k gold chain.
View attachment 2067063

Thoughts?
Think about matching your metals - seems like everything is silver ex your watch. But that's truly a first-world issue...
 

quigleysr

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Great thread.

I'm starting to dabble in the black-tie circuit, and I have a very nice, slim Dior tuxedo (peaked-lapel jacket, striped trousers, if that's the term). I wear it with a Dior black bow tie.

I have a bevy of white dress shirts, but no cuffed versions (all buttons).

There's a charity ball in Philadelphia which I'm interested in attending. It's old school.

The invitation says "White Tie for men (Black Tie accepted). / Floor Length Evening Gowns for Women"

I feel like the Black Tie accepted would be almost disappointing, however, maybe I'm off and that'll be more common than gents actually going in white tie.

One other option, and is this completely off, could I wear the Dior tux, and just purchase a white bow tie, cummerbund, different white shirt with cuffs, and...gloves?

If you are willing to share, I am curious what event you are considering. I always thought the now-defunct Academy Ball was the last major white tie event around here.
 

classicalthunde

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There's a charity ball in Philadelphia which I'm interested in attending. It's old school.

The invitation says "White Tie for men (Black Tie accepted). / Floor Length Evening Gowns for Women"

I feel like the Black Tie accepted would be almost disappointing, however, maybe I'm off and that'll be more common than gents actually going in white tie.

One other option, and is this completely off, could I wear the Dior tux, and just purchase a white bow tie, cummerbund, different white shirt with cuffs, and...gloves?

I'm familiar with this event, although I haven't gone myself personally. By all accounts, its a mix of a lot of badly rented white tie and black tie rigs.

Personally, I'd rather wear a proper well fitting black tie rig than a poorly done/poorly fitted white tie rig.
 
Last edited:

SirGrotius

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Sure, that makes sense above, ha. If I were to go, I'd 100% do the perfectly fitted and attired black-tie ensemble.

Here's the link, it's the Philadelphia Charity Ball. https://www.philadelphiacharityball.com/

I've never been before either, but saw it listed in Philadelphia Magazine and thought it looked interesting, especially the white-tie element. I recently finished a rather esoteric booked called the Perennial Philadelphians on the subject of old-Philadelphians, and it brought this type of event to mind.

I imagine I could still go, even though there's a note saying that reservations should be made before now, however, it almost seems too intimate in some ways, so wonder if I'd be too socially awkward for such a gala. ;)
 

classicalthunde

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Sure, that makes sense above, ha. If I were to go, I'd 100% do the perfectly fitted and attired black-tie ensemble.

Here's the link, it's the Philadelphia Charity Ball. https://www.philadelphiacharityball.com/

I've never been before either, but saw it listed in Philadelphia Magazine and thought it looked interesting, especially the white-tie element. I recently finished a rather esoteric booked called the Perennial Philadelphians on the subject of old-Philadelphians, and it brought this type of event to mind.

I imagine I could still go, even though there's a note saying that reservations should be made before now, however, it almost seems too intimate in some ways, so wonder if I'd be too socially awkward for such a gala. ;)

Ah, I was thinking the Academy of Music Gala, which was also white tie
 

wilcthree

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I plan to soon acquire a pair of standalone formal trousers. Black barathea is my first choice, but should I also consider midnight blue (mohair blend)? The intent would be to wear them as separates with dinner jackets. I know @Andy57 has tremendous success pairing midnight blue formal trousers with dinner jackets, but I haven’t reached that sartorial level of black tie mastery… yet. So, what say ye? Should I prioritize one over the other? What’s the prevailing wisdom on this?
 

Mark from Plano

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I don’t think it makes much difference really. Your choice. If it’s a true midnight you won’t notice much difference. My last tux I had both a midnight (the color of the tux) and a black pair made. I tend to wear the black pair with alternate dinner jackets mainly to reduce wear on the main pair. But I’ve worn both.

I recently got a tartan pair. Going to be trying those out at a holiday party in a couple of weeks. 😝
 

Andy57

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I plan to soon acquire a pair of standalone formal trousers. Black barathea is my first choice, but should I also consider midnight blue (mohair blend)? The intent would be to wear them as separates with dinner jackets. I know @Andy57 has tremendous success pairing midnight blue formal trousers with dinner jackets, but I haven’t reached that sartorial level of black tie mastery… yet. So, what say ye? Should I prioritize one over the other? What’s the prevailing wisdom on this?
If you don't have a black pair or if this is your first pair, then you should get black.
 

Andy57

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Ok. Zeroing in on the NYE wedding ensemble. Here are my current thoughts.

Jacket: Divij Bespoke/Hemrajani shawl lapel black watch dinner jacket.
Trousers: Black Steed MTM formal trousers

View attachment 2067059

Shirt: Hemrajani formal shirt with faux pleat front.
Tie & Waist: Black grosgrain silk tie & cummerbund from Edward Armah.
Pocket Square: White silk with black pin dots by Robert Talbot
Braces: Trafalgar limited edition silk formal braces (“Puttin’ on the Ritz”)
Stud set: sterling silver and onyx by Jan Leslie
Shoes & Stockings: Red silk formal stockings from Ben Silver and black velvet slippers with crown motif from Bullock & Jones
Watch (not shown): 1920’s vintage IWC dress pocket watch in an 18k gold case on an 18k gold chain.
View attachment 2067063

Thoughts?
Are you quite sure about the socks?
 

Mark from Plano

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Are you quite sure about the socks?
Not entirely. Just a thought. Red are recommended as an alternative in ‘Dressing the Man’ I believe. But it might be a bridge too far in this case.

Plus, She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed has exercised veto power over the insignia slippers. I’ll likely go with plain black.
 

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