The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

@Andy57 out of curiosity how tall are you?

I used to be 6' 1", but now I'm closer to 6'.

I think the Tom Ford example you gave is closest to the Fellows illustration. I went with what I liked. Unlike with my ivory jacket, I wasn't trying to copy a specific jacket (the one in the illustration). It was the color and single-breasted style of the jacket that was the important thing for me. So, without looking at the illustration, I went for my usual 4 self-covered sleeve buttons and self-covered link buttons at the waist. No vents, jetted pockets, of course.

 

[thermals]

I have a Black Mohair Sid Mashburn Tux (peak lapel) that I'll be wearing in my wedding in October. Really having issues deciding what shoes to wear. Any suggestions? I have a pair of Black AE Park Ave's but obviously don't want to wear a captoe. Any suggestions?

 

[Andy57]

I have a Black Mohair Sid Mashburn Tux (peak lapel) that I'll be wearing in my wedding in October. Really having issues deciding what shoes to wear. Any suggestions? I have a pair of Black AE Park Ave's but obviously don't want to wear a captoe. Any suggestions?

If you polish them to a high shine, they would be okay. But if it is your wedding, why not do it right and buy a pair of patent leather shoes? I would recommend patent oxfords (Brooks has a nice pair, for not outrageous money), but many people prefer black patent opera pumps.

 

[thermals]

If you polish them to a high shine, they would be okay. But if it is your wedding, why not do it right and buy a pair of patent leather shoes? I would recommend patent oxfords (Brooks has a nice pair, for not outrageous money), but many people prefer black patent opera pumps.

Yea, I'm wanting to do it right since this is obviously a very special occasion. Any thoughts about crockett and jones?

 

[Andy57]

Yea, I'm wanting to do it right since this is obviously a very special occasion. Any thoughts about crockett and jones?

A very respectable shoe maker.

 

[Concordia]

Shawls are funny-- sort of like 3-buttons. There was a perfect realization of the concept back in the late 50s, but I couldn't tell you where to find it or how to make it. I love the idea, but most incarnations don't quite do it for me.
I will need a firmer set of instructions or a tailor who obviously gets it before I make the leap. And I wear black tie so infrequently (even at Oxford, for shame!) that adding to the peak lapel and DB that are in residence seems wasteful even by my standards.

 

[The Chai]

I’ll wear my narrow shawl tomorrow and post a picture of it...I’m
In the same train of thought with shawls as you @Concordia and I had a lot of doubts as I was used to
The sbpl look. I probably would not get another shawl made for awhile but once I put mine on it feels very unique in comparison to my other djs

 

[The Chai]

Shawls are funny-- sort of like 3-buttons. There was a perfect realization of the concept back in the late 50s, but I couldn't tell you where to find it or how to make it. I love the idea, but most incarnations don't quite do it for me.
I will need a firmer set of instructions or a tailor who obviously gets it before I make the leap. And I wear black tie so infrequently (even at Oxford, for shame!) that adding to the peak lapel and DB that are in residence seems wasteful even by my standards.

I mentioned this in the aus thread the other day. My tailor flat out refused to make a three button or a three roll 2...finds it pointless especially if you are not meant to button the top button. That said I mostly get one buttons made...

 

[Concordia]

My new formula for jackets is a "4-button"-- the standard 3 but spaced to be part of a chain of 4 with the boutonniere. You have to make sure the notch is low enough to tolerate flipping up the collar, but you can button all 4 if you like. An additional benefit is a higher button stance when you only button the middle-- perfect when driving, for example.
I've only done that for tweed so far, but might get some of those beefy LL linens to see how it looks in warmer weather.
That said, most of my suits are 2-button, and I do a fair number of conventional 3s as well as 2s in sport jackets.

 

[The Chai]

My new formula for jackets is a "4-button"-- the standard 3 but spaced to be part of a chain of 4 with the boutonniere. You have to make sure the notch is low enough to tolerate flipping up the collar, but you can button all 4 if you like. An additional benefit is a higher button stance when you only button the middle-- perfect when driving, for example.
I've only done that for tweed so far, but might get some of those beefy LL linens to see how it looks in warmer weather.
That said, most of my suits are 2-button, and I do a fair number of conventional 3s as well as 2s in sport jackets.

I found some 500 gram linen the other day, can’t wait to get a jacket made in it

 

[thermals]

Guys,
I had to have Sid Mashburn alter my tux for a 2nd time recently due to some weight loss. I think it looks fine generally but am worried about the back / sleeves. Given that I spent about $2,200 on this buying a new one isn't an option at this point.

Obviously ignore the shirt and shoes as I won't be wearing that with my tux on my wedding day

 

[ababac]

i was going to suggest the tailor's fit thread, but i can see you've posted there, too.

i'm definitely no expert but your jacket really does need taking in at the back shoulder/armhole. the fit thread lot will tell you just what needs doing. if the suit fit well before, you've definitely lost a good bit of weight so well done! that'll be much more beneficial to how you look that having a perfectly-fitting suit.

i know it can be a little difficult getting together a good black tie rig from scratch on a limited budget; i never had a dinner jacket until my own recent wedding (always wanted one, never had the excuse).
after spending most of my money on my suit and shirt, i saved a lot of money by getting patent shoes made by aldo, half-price in a sale - £45. they're rubber-soled, so i had a cobbler put suede dancing soles for another £10. ditched the shoelaces and made my own ribbon laces (similar -but better, and cheaper if you live in the uk- than those sold at gentleman's gazette). et voilà, rather decent-looking shoes. they'll be upgraded in future, but for now i really rather like them. and that's all that matters.

 

[ericgereghty]

I have a Black Mohair Sid Mashburn Tux (peak lapel) that I'll be wearing in my wedding in October. Really having issues deciding what shoes to wear. Any suggestions? I have a pair of Black AE Park Ave's but obviously don't want to wear a captoe. Any suggestions?

I'd vote either for wholecuts or plaintoes, assuming you are tied to the oxford route.

 

[Concordia]

If well-enough shined, cap-toes can suffice, and even be indistinguishable from a plain-toe on occasion. But a plain-toe will look better.

 

[sftiger]

SS has them for $300 and BB has them for $400. I've never seen either go on sale. You can probably find ones online for less but it's not like there are tons of companies selling classic mens patent leather shoes, and the nice part about SS or BB is you can try them on in one of their stores.

C&J is great but a bit more expensive and may be harder to try on as they only have a store in NYC and, if their website is to be believed, are only stocked at 6 stores in the US including none west of the Mississippi.