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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

bdavro23

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It's beige. Tan, maybe. What color does it appear on your screen?
Mauve, maybe a really light lavender. Both of which would be amazing. I made myself a Mauve jacket from the Loro Piana Cashmere Cloud collection (now discontinued) that I simply love. I think the fabric would look gorgeous as a DJ.
 

Andy57

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Mauve, maybe a really light lavender. Both of which would be amazing. I made myself a Mauve jacket from the Loro Piana Cashmere Cloud collection (now discontinued) that I simply love. I think the fabric would look gorgeous as a DJ.
Well, that's odd that your screen would render it as a light lavender. I agree that such a color would look awesome as a DJ. This one is beige, though. The inspiration was the Fellows illustration a few pages back.
 

bdavro23

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I recall the discussion, just didnt realize you were that far a long in the process. Enjoy it.

Let me know when you get around to making the Mauve or Lavender DJs, I have some swatches I can recommend :)
 

The Chai

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I might pull the trigger on a beige cran necker lapel versión myself
 

Andy57

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Inspired by the Fellowes illustration at the bottom of this post and also that @Butler keeps asking me to refill his champagne glass when I wear my ivory dinner jacket, I commissioned a beige jacket from Dormeuil "Ceremonial" cloth. Here is a picture from my first time out with it:
1212068


The jacket was made by Hemrajani. The trousers are my midnight blue mohair trousers, also by Hemrajani. Shirt is a hand-pleated shirt in voile by Budd. Tie is by Le Noeud Papillon. I'm also wearing a cummerbund by Budd.

The Fellowes illustration is attached.

 

am55

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Inspired by the Fellowes illustration at the bottom of this post and also that @Butler keeps asking me to refill his champagne glass when I wear my ivory dinner jacket, I commissioned a beige jacket from Dormeuil "Ceremonial" cloth. Here is a picture from my first time out with it:
View attachment 1212068

The jacket was made by Hemrajani. The trousers are my midnight blue mohair trousers, also by Hemrajani. Shirt is a hand-pleated shirt in voile by Budd. Tie is by Le Noeud Papillon. I'm also wearing a cummerbund by Budd.

The Fellowes illustration is attached.

I know you have great attention to details on these things. May I ask what prompted you to change the lapel shape away from the two-lines-with-curved-corner one favoured by both men on the illustration, towards a single sweeping curve? Your higher buttoning point may have caused issue with replicating the effect of the "corner" at the waistline underlined by the button (in the illustration). Well, of course what you did looks good, but I am curious as to the thinking.
 

Andy57

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I know you have great attention to details on these things. May I ask what prompted you to change the lapel shape away from the two-lines-with-curved-corner one favoured by both men on the illustration, towards a single sweeping curve? Your higher buttoning point may have caused issue with replicating the effect of the "corner" at the waistline underlined by the button (in the illustration). Well, of course what you did looks good, but I am curious as to the thinking.
A number of things come into play, if I stop and think about it. First, I like the drama of my lapels and I think they work quite well for my height. Second, the cut is the same as my midnight blue jacket where we originally went for that dramatic sweep and succeeded. So I knew my cutter could execute these lapels exactly right so I figured I'd have him make something I already knew he could do a good job with. So I suppose you could say it's a product of my inherent, uh, conservatism.
 

classicalthunde

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@Andy57 out of curiosity how tall are you?

anyone know of a resource for the different shapes of shawl lapels? Are they even standardized in description from tailor to tailor? any tips on how to chose a shape if your doing MTM and won't be able to see if on you first (I'll obviously be asking my tailor for input in person whenever the opportunity for a new DJ arises)? I'm on the shorter and wider side (5'8" and 215lbs) and tend to wear my jacket unbuttoned a good bit of the night

How would you describe the examples below?

Andy's latest DJ - bellied?

Example 1 - would this be standard shawl?

Example 2 - beveled maybe?

Example 3 - wide standard?
 

UrbanComposition

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Tailors don’t do shawl collars very often; very few have a “house” style (with the exception of Row houses). Usually you show them a picture of what you like, and they approximate it.
 

jonathanS

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@Andy57 out of curiosity how tall are you?

anyone know of a resource for the different shapes of shawl lapels? Are they even standardized in description from tailor to tailor? any tips on how to chose a shape if your doing MTM and won't be able to see if on you first (I'll obviously be asking my tailor for input in person whenever the opportunity for a new DJ arises)? I'm on the shorter and wider side (5'8" and 215lbs) and tend to wear my jacket unbuttoned a good bit of the night

How would you describe the examples below?

Andy's latest DJ - bellied?

Example 1 - would this be standard shawl?

Example 2 - beveled maybe?

Example 3 - wide standard?
Maybe it’s just me. But I always felt like the rounder you are the less likely you should do shawl lapels.
 

The Chai

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I originally wanted a wide bellied eidos styled shawl lapel. My tailor suggested I go for a narrow bevelled shawl (similar to dr no James Bond) as I was skinny and 5ft 7, it is by far my favourite dj
 

classicalthunde

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Maybe it’s just me. But I always felt like the rounder you are the less likely you should do shawl lapels.
Fair, I'll definitely listen to the input of my tailor...maybe 'barrel chested' would be a better description than round per se..,.My current black tie rig is a wide peak grossgrain lapel, but want to eventually commission a separate DJ for some variety. Thinking of either off-white, black watch or a velvet one...teh velvet I could see doing as a peak, but black watch and the white summer jacket i think would look odd with more formal peak lapels
 
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