The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

@Andy57 will it be peak or shawl? I think on shawl you could go black satin facing with midnight blue, for some reason I think with peak it should all match and be grosgrain. I guess I think the shawl is a bit less formal, and therefor okay to play around with a bit

Good question. It will a shawl lapel jacket. The inspiration for the shawl lapel is James Bond's midnight blue, shawl lapel dinner jacket in Dr No. Anthony Sinclair made it with midnight blue, satin facings (according to Suits of James Bond).

 

[classicalthunde]

Good question. It will a shawl lapel jacket. The inspiration for the shawl lapel is James Bond's midnight blue, shawl lapel dinner jacket in Dr No. Anthony Sinclair made it with midnight blue, satin facings (according to Suits of James Bond).

Ahh, it looks like (at least on that website) that it is matching midnight blue satin for a true remake. Although it’s a bit lighter than midnight blue, I must confess that I love craig’s skyfall variation as something fun and modern with a small nod to tradition...especially if you already have a number of dinner jackets, which looks like you do, I think you have a bit of room to play around

 

[lordsuperb]

I'm not sure if I've asked this before, and in no way is this a poll, but I am interested in the community's diverse opinions. I'm about to commission a midnight blue dinner jacket, waistcoat, and trousers. I had thought that I would use black grosgrain silk for the facings, but now I'm thinking that I will use midnight blue silk, preferably grosgrain but perhaps satin.

So, on a midnight blue dinner jacket, black or midnight blue facings?

I have midnight blue facings......

 

[lordsuperb]

What was the occasion? And who are those folks? Interesting to see that the men are all wearing what looks like a regular button-up shirt. And I've long thought that a dinner jacket was a great look on a woman.

https://therake.com/stories/news/sciamats-black-tie-party-connaught/

 

[Andy57]

Ahh, it looks like (at least on that website) that it is matching midnight blue satin for a true remake. Although it’s a bit lighter than midnight blue, I must confess that I love craig’s skyfall variation as something fun and modern with a small nod to tradition...especially if you already have a number of dinner jackets, which looks like you do, I think you have a bit of room to play around

Ah, but don't forget that the dinner jacket on the poster for Skyfall was photoshopped to be lighter than it actually was (which, apparently, was midnight blue). When I color outside the lines, it is only with the jacket. I've actually held off for quite a while commissioning a full midnight blue suit as, even in such a dark shade of blue, it was straying too far from black. I've gotten more comfortable with the idea now. I have 5 meters of a London Lounge mohair blend milled by Lovat that will be handed off to my tailor on Monday. So that part is all nailed down. It's just the facings decision and how much of a go-to-hell lining I want that remain open questions.

 

[classicalthunde]

Ah, but don't forget that the dinner jacket on the poster for Skyfall was photoshopped to be lighter than it actually was (which, apparently, was midnight blue). When I color outside the lines, it is only with the jacket. I've actually held off for quite a while commissioning a full midnight blue suit as, even in such a dark shade of blue, it was straying too far from black. I've gotten more comfortable with the idea now. I have 5 meters of a London Lounge mohair blend milled by Lovat that will be handed off to my tailor on Monday. So that part is all nailed down. It's just the facings decision and how much of a go-to-hell lining I want that remain open questions.

Yes, I love the version of the dinner jacket in the casino scene in Macau, which is a bit darker. I say go for it with the contrasting black satin lapels. I’m pulling the trigger on my wedding tux from Kent wang in a few weeks. being a wedding and my only (and most likely last) tux I’m going to go with black and grosgrain peak lapels, but if the fabric is out I may be bold and go for midnight blue!

 

[dan'l]

I went with black satin on my midnight blue shawl lapel DJ. I did ask my tailor what he thought, but he couldn’t find midnight blue satin so it ended up black.

With that said, it is really hard to tell the difference. I have a sample of midnight blue satin from a tie maker and it looks nearly identical to the black sample.

 

[supern0va]

I'm not sure if I've asked this before, and in no way is this a poll, but I am interested in the community's diverse opinions. I'm about to commission a midnight blue dinner jacket, waistcoat, and trousers. I had thought that I would use black grosgrain silk for the facings, but now I'm thinking that I will use midnight blue silk, preferably grosgrain but perhaps satin.

So, on a midnight blue dinner jacket, black or midnight blue facings?

I have the same question. I’m inclined to do midnight blue facing, specifically silk cord facing (ie grosgrain-style). I note Bernstein and Barnlets (the lining company) carries it. But not sure how much to get for a jacket.

On a related note, would you do the vest in same silk facing, or in the midnight blue fabric (wool/mohair from dugdale for me)?

 

[Andy57]

I have the same question. I’m inclined to do midnight blue facing, specifically silk cord facing (ie grosgrain-style). I note Bernstein and Barnlets (the lining company) carries it. But not sure how much to get for a jacket.

On a related note, would you do the vest in same silk facing, or in the midnight blue fabric (wool/mohair from dugdale for me)?

My plan is to have the waistcoat made in the mohair blend.

 

[Andy57]

I have the same question. I’m inclined to do midnight blue facing, specifically silk cord facing (ie grosgrain-style). I note Bernstein and Barnlets (the lining company) carries it. But not sure how much to get for a jacket.

The company is actually Bernstein and Banleys, Ltd. They carry silk facings in both grosgrain and satin silk, in both black and midnight blue. Here's the midnight blue:

The black actually looks slightly greenish on my laptop screen. But there is clearly a ready source whichever way we decide to go. Right now, I'm thinking midnight blue grosgrain.

 

[Oshare]

I’m in no position to offer advice on black tie to the experts here, but I have a question related to black or midnight blue lapels:

If the lapels are midnight blue, I presume the tie remains black. Is the mismatch okay? Looking at photos of Bond with the midnight blue lapels, the contrast with the tie is noticeable if you look carefully.

It does strike me as a bit odd. But then again, my own midnight blue dj has black satin peak lapels. The black of the lapels and the black of the tie is very difficult to match, so maybe the point is moot?

 

[am55]

Westworld season 2 has begun, which reminded me of Anthony Hopkins' bow tie choice:

That jacket...

 

[Andy57]

I’m in no position to offer advice on black tie to the experts here, but I have a question related to black or midnight blue lapels:

If the lapels are midnight blue, I presume the tie remains black. Is the mismatch okay? Looking at photos of Bond with the midnight blue lapels, the contrast with the tie is noticeable if you look carefully.

It does strike me as a bit odd. But then again, my own midnight blue dj has black satin peak lapels. The black of the lapels and the black of the tie is very difficult to match, so maybe the point is moot?

You match the texture of the facings and the texture of the tie, meaning grosgrain to a grosgrain tie and satin to a satin tie. The color of the tie is always black.

 

[am55]

The company is actually Bernstein and Banleys, Ltd. They carry silk facings in both grosgrain and satin silk, in both black and midnight blue. Here's the midnight blue:

The black actually looks slightly greenish on my laptop screen. But there is clearly a ready source whichever way we decide to go. Right now, I'm thinking midnight blue grosgrain.

Definitely midnight blue.

Now, I would say grosgrain in London. For California, with your bright lighting and (I am guessing, based on your photos) prevalence of outdoor events, why not satin, which looks better in brighter light? The grosgrain's subtle textural light play is lost as soon as the proverbial torch is shone upon it, the direction of the pattern suddenly very prevalent, almost like a pencil stripe. I found myself shifting to satin after moving to warmer climes in part for that reason.

 

[Andy57]

Definitely midnight blue.

Now, I would say grosgrain in London. For California, with your bright lighting and (I am guessing, based on your photos) prevalence of outdoor events, why not satin, which looks better in brighter light? The grosgrain's subtle textural light play is lost as soon as the proverbial torch is shone upon it, the direction of the pattern suddenly very prevalent, almost like a pencil stripe. I found myself shifting to satin after moving to warmer climes in part for that reason.

Your point has merit. I'll ponder upon it.