Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
feel them. They're usually coarse and thick. Also check out the darker denims? thats how I do it
yes, with vintage levis there are a few ways to spot em without trolling hems.
i spit on most new selvedge i see: uniqlo, jean shop, gap, evisu - absolutely uninteresting and a pass for me.
lvc, gustin, tellason, lee 101 (sometimes), edwin (sometimes), i would kop rising sun, i would KOP roy. i don't see much japanese stuff (but i would probably kop just to do it).
moving into flip talk
these do pretty well for me. assuming theres little wear
oh of course. yeah. to each their own: j crew probably worth trying, naked & famous could flip ok (don't flame me snootchie bootchies)
condition is def important, you want stuff either like new or with an amazing fade
also size matters. and wimmenz hipzterz wear selvedge too, i think it's actually not a bad idea to cross-list as women's if the size works...
Again I am need of your help gentlemen. Are these two Mulberry bags authentic? I understand Roger Saul (the founder) was ousted in 2002 so they must pre-date 2002 but one of them is made in Turkey and I am unsure of when they began making their leather goods outside of Somerset in the UK. Any help would be appreciated
Honestly for vintage Lees it's pretty easy I go by the Rivets. For Wrangler I look for either the "Bright Blues" or I check the zip, and look for non-YKK/lee. For modern Selvedge I look at the hue of the cloth. If it looks dark, but not "Dark washed" I'll usually pop the cuff. Industrial indigo has a very distinctive look to it, and the way it ages. Since at this point in time 7/10 US selvedge companies use Cone, it's a pretty basic and specific color to learn. When your eyes travel outside of the "Cone Band" it starts to peak my interest. Usually arent racks of denim in my thrifts so it takes making 5 min to go through everything.
Same. I generally have like 20 pairs maximum to go through.
Is there a good way to clean marker off the bottom of these leather shoes? Goodwill seems to have used permanent marker for the price, and now it's the only real blemish. Best I could do was add a little dry-erase marker to make it a black smudge instead of a clear number. Obviously not a big deal, just curious if there's an easy fix.
Also I found this neat cashmere blazer, Nordstrom with Loro Piana fabric. Sadly just a hair too big for me in the shoulders/sleeves:
and then a basic, nearly mint Hickey Freeman black pinstripe suit:
A modest haul, but a good one by my standards!
^agreed. Even the biggest store here which has roughly a hundred pairs at a given time, a quick scan narrows me down to 10-15 that I even bother looking at
Edit: goo gone works sometimes on markered soles
If the permanent marker is on worn (rough) leather, honestly your best bet may be a light but deft bit of sandpapering. If it's on the shiny leather of the sole, rubbing alcohol may take it off...but it also may leave a water-stain kind of mark. Been there, done that. Looked wretched. I do NOT know why they do that. I mean, of course I do...it's to stop people swapping price tags. But destroying a lot of good items to keep a few of them from being sold for less than intended seems a bad trade to me. :/
Fine sandpaper will do the job.
I feel dumb.
Stop trying to make shit so easy Chet.
In short, it will come with experiences. In not so short, before trolling the hem, look for details that you are familiar with quality selvedge brands. Also, super heavy dark indigo with a fine hand is another clue to quality denim. Of course, you could prolly looking at a pair of momo 1101 sp that's 10 oz. What i would do before trolling the hem is troll the coin pocket for selvedge id. That should be easy enough. Oh, that going into battle momo is a terrific find!
I always look for several things:
- Brand. I instantly pass over brands like Old Navy, Denizen, 7 For All Mankind, etc. They don't really make selvedge, and if they did it wouldn't be worth a damn.
- Color. Most of the time when I pop selvedge, It's a pretty dark Indigo Blue. Sometimes I will notice high contrast fades and be able to pick them out that way. If it's really faded, I generally pass over it instantly... UNLESS I happen to notice a lot of age or distinct character. If it's vintage Levis, I cop em of course... But most newer brands of jeans aren't worth a lot if they're super faded and washed out. Colors like Black, Gray, Khaki are sort of a toss up. If they seem quality, I check em for brand and etc.
- Leather Patch. Yeah there's older selvedge Levi's with those papery patches, but most of your newer high-end jeans makers use tanned Leather. Thicker the better usually.
- Construction. Heavy belt loops, bartacks, good rivets, chainstitching... These are all signs of higher quality jeans.
- Denim Weave / Character. Sometimes I will know a certain denim is selvedge before I'm even touching it... As time passes, and you experience more and more... You get to know certain denims really well. I remember one time I spotted a pair of N&F broken twills from like 10 feet down the rack, but that broken twill sticks out pretty well. Denims with more "nep" and "slub" will generally mean they are vintage fabrics, or newer fabrics produced on older machines... Either case is generally good.
- Train Tracks. Yeah train tracks occur on non-selvedge denim, and they don't instantly mean selvedge... But on vintage jeans they almost always have a distinct appearance. That's how I caught a pair of Big E's once while walking down the racks at a Value Village... Traintracks.
- Outer Leg Seam. Selvedge denim jeans are almost always made with the outer leg seam (not inseam) "flat" or like opened up. I know there's a technical term for it that @Takai or someone would know, but I'm spacing it right now. Usually jeans that have the "folded over" leg seams are not selvedge. I will sometimes feel that seam, and if its folded then I pass em over. ALSO, if the outside of that seam is heavily stitched like with cheaper "work jeans", then they are generally not selvedge.
- Regarding Levi's.... I usually just look for darker indigo denim, the thicker leather patches, and certain model numbers like 501, 501XX, 501ZXX, 514. Those are usually the selvedge models they offer. I've SEEN some like 510's or 569's on eBay and etc that were selvedge, but i've never seen that in person. Also, of course you'll want to more closely inspect any super old looking, or super worn pairs of 501's. Most people don't even want to touch really fucked up dirty Levis, but I dig in there hoping to see them Redlines or that Big E.
Selvedge doesn't instantly mean quality or value of course... But it's "hot" right now. A lot of cheaper brands like Uni-Qlo, GAP... even Nana Repubs are making jeans with selvedge to capitalize on the trend. While those are usually not worth picking up for eBay, and not that great for personal use... I tend to cop them for cheap and hock em at trade shops. Sometimes they price em pretty high. Also, there's some jeans out there that are valuable even without selvedge. I will always pick up Nudies in excellent condition if they're selvedge or not.
Using this knowledge, I've actually been able to score some super high quality jeans without knowing anything about the brand. A perfect example of that was when I found some nearly brand new "Paulrose Products" jeans over a year ago. I had never heard of that brand at all. I determined they were high end due to their insanely thick leather patch, the overall character and nep / slub of the denim, the bartacks, belt loops and hidden rivets in the back pockets. I picked them up for $7.99, and when I got home I saw that they were like $230+ jeans. Oddly enough, they are like a niche Heritage off-shoot brand in the Naked & Famous family. I intend to sell them, but currently they are locked up in my private denim vault. The character of their denim is among the best I've ever seen. I guess they weave it on special "low tension" shuttle looms, which gives it such awesome texture.
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