The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

[Stylewords]

Opps... wrong thread... but suggestions are welcome!

Maybe it's your stance, but there's a big difference between the left and right sleeve length. As is, definitely do not shorten the right sleeve. The left could be shortened a touch, but coat sleeves should be longer than jacket sleeves.

 

[bjhofkin]

I've got a better pic with a better stance. I think I should just shorten the sleeves for sure... Still on the edge about the waist, though. Suppress more?

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Some thoughts:

- From photo looks like right sleeve is MUCH shorter than the left – but could just be the photo.

- Assuming the photo is accurate, I would absolutely NOT shorten the sleeves beyond what the right sleeve length is currently.

- Balance looks like it's tilted forward – but again tough to tell from the photo. A profile pic would be helpful there. (Also, I'm not a tailor so I'm not sure what coul be done about that.)

- I actually think the shoulders/torso look good, and from this photo would not be inclined to suppress the waist any further – but again, more angles would be helpful.

 

[dieworkwear]

I've got a better pic with a better stance. I think I should just shorten the sleeves for sure... Still on the edge about the waist, though. Suppress more?

View attachment 1744391

Personally not feeling the coat. If it's something you can return, I would look for better options.

 

[Stylewords]

Personally not feeling the coat. If it's something you can return, I would look for better options.

That's not really very useful, is it? At least explain your criteria (which might not be important to the poster).

 

[dieworkwear]

That's not really very useful, is it? At least explain your criteria (which might not be important to the poster).

If the person is interested in hearing more, they can ask me. My reply was not directed at you.

 

[bjhofkin]

Posted this in the cloth thread just now but thought this might actually be a better place for it:

What is it called when the cloth facings sort of extend to become the lining itself, as in these photos?

And what are the pros cons of that method – specifically regarding overcoats? Could it be a way to make a heavier/warmer coat out of an otherwise lighter cloth?

 

[dieworkwear]

Posted this in the cloth thread just now but thought this might actually be a better place for it:

What is it called when the cloth facings sort of extend to become the lining itself, as in these photos?

View attachment 1744802

View attachment 1744803

And what are the pros cons of that method – specifically regarding overcoats? Could it be a way to make a heavier/warmer coat out of an otherwise lighter cloth?

I've seen the first photo you posted described as a French facing or self facing. I've seen the second photo you posted described as buggy lined or butterfly lined.

Back when he was still writing, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe claimed that a jacket lined with Ermazine wears cooler than partially lined coats where the inside is made with another layer of the outside shell. I have fully lined summer jackets made with Bemberg and partially lined jackets that are butterfly lined and made with a French facing/ self facing. I can't tell the difference in terms of heat, but I don't live in a particularly hot place.

 

[bjhofkin]

I've seen the first photo you posted described as a French facing or self facing. I've seen the second photo you posted described as buggy lined or butterfly lined.

Back when he was still writing, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe claimed that a jacket lined with Ermazine wears cooler than partially lined coats where the inside is made with another layer of the outside shell. I have fully lined summer jackets made with Bemberg and partially lined jackets that are butterfly lined and made with a French facing/ self facing. I can't tell the difference in terms of heat, but I don't live in a particularly hot place.

Got it – thank you.

It's really the first photo I'm talking about then because, as I said, I'm curious if it's a way to make a heavier/warmer coat from an otherwise relatively lighter cloth.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

How would you button a coat like the Drake's one from the current season? Do you think it would be okay to leave undone the button at the top, while buttoning the middle and bottom ones, like in the second picture here? Or would that look off somehow?

I'm asking because that seems to convey more of the characteristic fullness and relaxed shape that has been discussed in the last couple of pages.

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It's hard to know until you're actuall wearing the coat. Sometimes I wear my dbs with all three buttoned (especially when very cold). Sometimes with just the bottom two. Sometimes with just the middle. Sometimes open. One of my dbs has a button up top around the collar too and I sometimes button all the buttons. A lot also depends on what I am doing with the collar and lapels. Different coats don't all look good worn the same way. I also just like to mix things up.

 

[classicalthunde]

Got it – thank you.

It's really the first photo I'm talking about then because, as I said, I'm curious if it's a way to make a heavier/warmer coat from an otherwise relatively lighter cloth.

I've been cautioned against it as a bigger guy who wears oxford shirts often, as the fabric can catch and not drape properly on some lighted sport coats. Don't know if this would be as prominent with a heavy overcoat

 

[tamimasa]

Personally not feeling the coat. If it's something you can return, I would look for better options.

Thanks for the input. I actually like the coat very much, so probably gonna keep it.

Edited: The only thing I dislike about it is the length... if it were longer then that'd be perfect.

 

[Stylewords]

Thanks for the input. I actually like the coat very much, so probably gonna keep it.

Edited: The only thing I dislike about it is the length... if it were longer then that'd be perfect.

Coat looks good. Enjoy it.

 

[kolecho]

I've seen the first photo you posted described as a French facing or self facing. I've seen the second photo you posted described as buggy lined or butterfly lined.

Back when he was still writing, Will at A Suitable Wardrobe claimed that a jacket lined with Ermazine wears cooler than partially lined coats where the inside is made with another layer of the outside shell. I have fully lined summer jackets made with Bemberg and partially lined jackets that are butterfly lined and made with a French facing/ self facing. I can't tell the difference in terms of heat, but I don't live in a particularly hot place.

I'd say Will is correct and add that the jacket is also lighter. Practical tailors prefer half lined jackets and zippered pants. I observed that iGents like self lined jackets and button-up pants. I am shifting toward the practical tailor's side myself.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I couldn't resist this coat I found and ordered it. I already have two Bals, but my main winter one is very flashy. Seller claimed it is from the '40s or '50s.

I wanted one for days where I blend into the background, and this fit the bill. No idea on warmth, but I'm sure I could layer up heavily underneath. That mottled charcoal texture is one I haven't seen before and it sang to me.

It reminds me of some of the coats in this illustration

Here we go, this feels very "Wet Bandit" from Home Alone. It has an interesting red/orange undertone due to some orange thread I didn't notice initially, likely how it got its interesting texture. It feels like an old, thin rug from the childhood home I grew up in. Due to the lighter weight, this raglan "flows" around me compared to my heavier one

Spoiler: Me wearing the new coat

 

[bjhofkin]

Here we go, this feels very "Wet Bandit" from Home Alone. It has an interesting red/orange undertone due to some orange thread I didn't notice initially, likely how it got its interesting texture. It feels like an old, thin rug from the childhood home I grew up in. Due to the lighter weight, this raglan "flows" around me compared to my heavier one

Spoiler: Me wearing the new coat

Hilarious.

I was actually watching it with my daughters last weekend and thinking about Joe Pesci's coat.