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The non-black dinner jacket thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CaymanS, Mar 15, 2013.

  1. nh10222

    nh10222 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 27, 2013
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    We are not supposed to need a watch in the evening, nor to be in a hurry, concerned with things other than the occasion at hand etc. Wear a pocket watch with morning dress and other day wear, but go minimalist in the evening, without a watch, if you can.

    Then again, if you are a butler, perhaps you could be excused for needing to know the time as part of your duties. Still, you should be able to refer to clocks.

    Quote: Veremund Far better for the evening, in my opinion. Something small and thin, with a plain dial and simple strap, that could be totally concealed, like a Cartier Tank sans second hand, would be the best choice for those who had to shoot through by tram immediately after the conclusion of the evening's hostilities, had a spy mission to accomplish OHMSS or simply couldn't bear the thought of going without a timepiece for a few hours. Just don't spend the whole night checking it.

    Anyway, clearly not something many people consider important in today's fast-paced world, in which time is money or some other concern, even in the evening.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  2. table21

    table21 Senior member

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    Mar 18, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto
    Half the beauty of this jacket is lost as a combination of iphone photography and my lack of a good place to shoot a pic in my condo, however here is my purple zegna silk/cashmere dinner jacket.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I find a wrist watch, if it happens to protrude, to be much less discreet than a pocket watch, which only shows when one opens one's jacket in an informal fashion. If, unlike me, you can get a watch to stay put under your cuff without it driving you bonkers, then it's a fine choice. Though, I agree that this particular watch chain is a little bulky and long for evening wear. I prefer silver (or, in my case silver coloured) jewelry in the evening, and I think a thin, silver chain would be less obvious. If I were to wear gold, I would probably go for a shorter chain that goes across only half of my waistcoat. Knowing my own tendency toward stylish anachronisms, and word play, I would find it hard to make an anachronism of my time piece. I am quite sure I would revive the watch fob, or key chain.

    Quote:
    I agree that any wristwatch that becomes visible tends to look sloppy, and ruin the elegance of evening wear. As I said above, if it truly stays beneath the cuff, then it makes as little difference as pink and green suspenders under your waistcoat. I tried out a very slim, silver wristwatch with my Tuxedo (I thought it would be better than black, as it goes under the white cuff) but it slides a bit on my wrist (as I find comfortable) and when it popped out, just looked sloppy. I am genuinely curious, do you see many pocket watches and chains at the Black Tie events you attend? BTG's brief description of its history with the Tuxedo is that it became nearly extinct around the turn of the twentieth century, popping up from time to time up through the 1940's, but dying off pretty much completely after that.
     
  4. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Vancouver, BC
    I am going to go against the trend, here, and say that we should take our cue from the longer pedigreed white DJ, rather than the fringe elements, and go with self-faced lapels, when there would be much contrast with the jacket itself with black. Black Watch is quite dark isn't it? I think black would work, in that case. A red tartan, I would definitely go with self faced. For table21's dark purple, I think the black is very sharp.

    For those jackets where the black lapel would create too much contrast, definitely self-faced lapels. A shawl collar certainly does recall the smoking jacket, and indicate it is a dinner jacket, and not a sport coat. With peak lapels, might I suggest facing the collar in black satin, grosgrain, or velvet? It is smaller, and less prominent than the lapel, and its location does not interfere as much with the jacket's lines.

    I think the heavily contrasting lapels make the jacket more distracting/eye catching, which makes it less formal than one with self-faced lapels.
     
  5. cpmac7

    cpmac7 Senior member

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    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
  6. table21

    table21 Senior member

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    That looks too much like a sports coat for my tastes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    ^^^^^^^^
    Agree. If it had a shawl collar, I think it would look like a DJ. Or, grosgrain or satin faced peak lapels, or self faced with silk faced collar. I think this one could go either way with the lapel facings.
     
  8. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    That certainly is no dinner jacket; merely an odd looking sports coat.
     
  9. LeviMay

    LeviMay Senior member

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    Location:
    Alberta
    I just ordered a burgundy, single-breasted satin-shawl lapelled dinner jacket. I went with side vents, but have been reading that ventless is more traditional. My reasoning is that the vents will be more practical. Anyone see any problem with this?[​IMG]
     
  10. ballmouse

    ballmouse Senior member

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    Aug 21, 2011
    [​IMG]

    David Niven pulled it quite well in The Pink Panther. But then again, there's only one David Niven.
     
  11. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    No problem with any of it. Side vents are fine, and a bit less formal. I don't think anyone is going to stop you to say "I quite like the burgundy, but those side vents are rather gauche, to my eye." However, if they do, they had better be in impeccable White Tie, and with a beautiful woman.
     
  12. LeviMay

    LeviMay Senior member

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    Apr 28, 2011
    Location:
    Alberta
    Picked up my burgundy smoking jacket today. Looks kind of brown or purple here. The colour is really tricky to photograph. Anyway...

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Ayo Ariyo

    Ayo Ariyo New Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2014
    Neeeeed to know where this was purchased if possible?? or anything similar in this colour, thanks in advance
     

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