The New Brooks Brothers

[Nobilis Animus]

I think he was saying that BB's problems are not unique, and those other classic clothiers suffer from the same problem.

I can only think of a small handful of classic clothiers, beyond custom clothiers and small boutiques, who aren't having this problem, although Brooks Brothers is among the worst of them. I think it helps to keep the business small so you don't have to move as much volume. Or if you grow big, it has to be a luxury brand like Loro Piana. The middle tier with a big real estate footprint pushes you into that Brooks Brothers problem.

Oh, the inherent ambiguity! I thought he meant sales as in profit.

It's true, there's always that risk with growth. I don't pretend to more about business operation than that - I just know why I make spending decisions.

 

[wildcat10]

Yes, but men's suitmakers are generally not known.

Women's fashion at these events are generally covered to a much larger degree. And for suitmakers, I've only seen the President's clothes discussed. No one discusses which guests wore what suitmaker.

I agree with you. An article about men's suits at the inauguration would barely be able to hold the interest of styleforum classic menswear nerds.

The second gentleman wore Ralph Lauren too, probably because Kamala Harris also wore Ralph Lauren. Maybe they got a package deal

Now i'll go back to look for that "best dressed politicians" thread somewhere around here ...

 

[TheChihuahua]

No one moves to this model willingly. They do it because they're forced to for the short term. J. Crew didn't try to popularize this model, they were pressured into it. Same with Brooks Brothers. With too much real estate, lagging sales, unsold inventory, empty stores, etc. they've had to draw customers in with discounts. And then those customers become accustomed to shopping on sales and never buy at full price again.

allen Edmonds sort of falls into this trap too.
Allen Edmonds makes a great shoe. But it’s a good year welted shoe, not something people usually go through quickly or need urgently. As such, most of their customers are willing to wait for the model they want to go on sale. And then when it comes to shelling out $399 for the shoe it’s sort of like, well I can get it for $200 if I just wait.

i just bought 3 belts from Allen Edmonds. Fantastic quality as far as I’m concerned. Average price probably not much more than what Macy’s is selling Tommy Hilfiger belts or mens wear house selling those cheap plasticky leather belts for. Would I pay $100 for one of these moving forward? Tough to justify when I know half price is coming around the corner.
Also just bought a belt from brooks brothers. Probably first time I have purchased something for myself from them in 5 years? Like $39 for it. I’m pleased.

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

I think BB could have an angle on the modern biz casual market

most middle aged men with some money don’t really care about clothes and just want standard stuff that looks normal/professional

they should keep whatever part of their legacy remains relevant for this context (such as OCBDs) and get rid of the rest

their old customers will hate it but they are a dying breed

it should ideally be a place you could walk in and spend a few thousand $ and be completely outfitted for work

this probably means a lot of BS like fleece vests and dress sneakers at this point but that’s the world we live in

 

[WhyUEarly]

I feel like big corporations underestimate how much free advertising and halo effect MiUSA has on their products when you can get politicians to use your products. But I suppose once you made the decision to start offshoring, the MBAs just see economies of scale.

 

[wildcat10]

I think BB could have an angle on the modern biz casual market
...

this probably means a lot of BS like fleece vests and dress sneakers at this point but that’s the world we live in

It sounds like Banana Republic, but maybe that's where things will end up.

Banana Republic + OCBD + some 1818 suits

 

[smittycl]

I feel like big corporations underestimate how much free advertising and halo effect MiUSA has on their products when you can get politicians to use your products. But I suppose once you made the decision to start offshoring, the MBAs just see economies of scale.

Schumer has always been a supporter of Hickey Freeman.

Report: Biden, Schumer sport Hickey-Freeman-made outfits at Inauguration

Biden's ensemble, which was designed by Ralph Lauren, was created in the Hickey-Freeman factory in the city.

www.whec.com

 

[smittycl]

 

[smittycl]

 

[comrade]

"it should ideally be a place you could walk in and spend a few thousand $ and be completely outfitted for work"

That's exactly what it was up through the 1980s and probably long before.

It is where the Northeastern elite, wannabe elite, and professional class
bought their wardrobes, including a well-respected bespoke department.

 

[Texasmade]

It's kind of strange to think of BB having a bespoke department nowadays.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

It's kind of strange to think of BB having a bespoke department nowadays.

I posted links a while ago to one of Vox's old IG pictures where he shows one of their suits from the 1950s custom department. It was a quintessential 'Ivy' look, but without all the exaggerated effects of the later decade. They could definitely cut better than a sack for the more discerning clients.

 

[TheChihuahua]

I think BB could have an angle on the modern biz casual market

most middle aged men with some money don’t really care about clothes and just want standard stuff that looks normal/professional

they should keep whatever part of their legacy remains relevant for this context (such as OCBDs) and get rid of the rest

their old customers will hate it but they are a dying breed

it should ideally be a place you could walk in and spend a few thousand $ and be completely outfitted for work

this probably means a lot of BS like fleece vests and dress sneakers at this point but that’s the world we live in

When I think of the worst aspect of brooks brothers I think of their business casual line. Khaki pants with button down shirts with no style at all, screaming middle management getting through the day with as little effort as possible.
As much as I blame the acceptance of business casual for contributing to the dumbing down of America, I blame companies like brooks brothers for making it even more unbearable for their complete lack of effort to add any style to “biz caj” at all.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

When I think of the worst aspect of brooks brothers I think of their business casual line. Khaki pants with button down shirts with no style at all, screaming middle management getting through the day with as little effort as possible.
As much as I blame the acceptance of business casual for contributing to the dumbing down of America, I blame companies like brooks brothers for making it even more unbearable for their complete lack of effort to add any style to “biz caj” at all.

Care to explain?

 

[TheChihuahua]

Care to explain?

Business casual sucks in general, o guess that is a good starting point. However, some styles have developed from this over the past 2 decades that are quite nice.
Unfortunately, brooks brothers has failed to evolve and represents the worst of “biz caj life”. Generic khaki pants with a button down shirt, no style, no identity.

thebrooks brothers business casual line seems more like a junior partner that was forced upon a great professional attire company. Instead of keeping up with changing trends and developing a nice look, they sort of developed this “well I guess we have to make this boring line of clothes.”

i am not a brooks brothers hater. One of the great American companies as far as I’m concerned. They dress JFK and some of my most memorable purchases came from them. I probably have a hundred brooks brothers ties.

But one area where they really failed was their business casual outlet style generic offerings that were downright terrible (When I say terrible, I mean that in a loving way for a brand I expect more out of. The quality is still better than many other low quality offerings)