The Lapelless Double-breasted Vest

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Would you wear one? Why or why not? Do you prefer DB peak or DB shawl or

DB notch* to the lapelless DB? If so, why? Is the lapelless DB less conspicuous than a DB with lapels? Dressier or less dressy? Does it look better with the wrap very high, or can it look good with a lower wrap?

I'd value any thoughts or opinions. SF member obiwan has said he owns one. Anyone else?

Manton, in a great post on vest lapel rules at AAAC, says they tend not to look as good as DB vests with lapels. But, he says, according to The Rules, they are not incorrect.

On to images. I had trouble finding any images of the lapelless DB in wear, especially with anything other than a frock coat. Does that tell us something? Anyway:

Poached this sketch of the cut from denverbespoke.com:

There's one in runway wear in 8x4 in the top photo of this blog post.

Here's a fancy one in wear with a frock coat from Sator's superb post on Kind Hearts and Coronets at clothesonfilm.com. You have to look carefully, but you'll see that the fronts do wrap. It looks like there's piping on the edges: see how the left front wraps over the right:

Here's a 10x5 in wear with a lounge coat, from the same post. Much easier to make out the silhouette:

Here are four pictures stolen from Sator's posts here at SF:

(In the bottom right of this 1876 plate):

This one (440) was posted by Dr. Kilroy at AAAC recently:

There's a 6x3 here in, of all things, a sweater vest.

Poached this one from The Eccentric Orange Gentleman blog.

Here's a link to one in a NOT SAFE FOR WORK video. Scene starts at 1:33. It's on Sam Neill as Sidney Reilly.

Does it look better with the tight V-shaped throat we've seen above, or the wide-cut U-shaped throat? Here's a link to Sator's 10x5 DB shawl in U-shape.
Imagine that the lapels were removed.


* It can look good when done well, as on Michael Ay329's here.

 

[random-adam]

I made the mistake last year of ordering a three-piece suit with this option for the vest:

...unfortunately, a version with a shawl lapels -- which I believe would have looked fantastic -- was unavailable.

That said I'll happily wear it, as it will be under a jacket and still look snazzier than a comparable SB vest.

 

[landshark]

I like the look of the lower cut ones. I would consider it if I ever had the opportunity.

 

[IndianBoyz]

Quite nice, where's this drawing from?

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Originally Posted by random-adam

I made the mistake last year of ordering a three-piece suit with this option for the vest:

...unfortunately, a version with a shawl lapels -- which I believe would have looked fantastic -- was unavailable.

That said I'll happily wear it, as it will be under a jacket and still look snazzier than a comparable SB vest.

Interesting, random. How do you like the total look with it on under your coat, as opposed to not wearing the vest? Does it broaden your torso in comparison to the two-piece look? Lengthen it?

IndianBoyz, I don't know for sure. Sator posted it in an epic 2008 thread on "Waistcoats." Search for "waistcoats, Sator, DB, bellied lapels" and you should find it. I'd guess it's a plate from a tailor's publication, like The Tailor and Cutter, circa 1905.

 

[IndianBoyz]

Thank you.

 

[random-adam]

Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii

Interesting, random. How do you like the total look with it on under your coat, as opposed to not wearing the vest? Does it broaden your torso in comparison to the two-piece look? Lengthen it?

It does neither; there's just enough of a hint of the vest showing so that folks know it's a 3-piece, but it's really subtle... until I undo the jacket button and the watch chain blings out all over everybody.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Originally Posted by random-adam

It does neither; there's just enough of a hint of the vest showing so that folks know it's a 3-piece, but it's really subtle... until I undo the jacket button and the watch chain blings out all over everybody.

Thanks. Yes, that's what I'm curious about (should have been clearer). What does it look like with the coat unbuttoned? More broadening, or more lengthening, like an SB vest?

 

[random-adam]

Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii

What does it look like with the coat unbuttoned? More broadening, or more lengthening, like an SB vest?

 

[PregnantBob]

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Thanks, random and PB. Just getting back from internet vacation. Great pics. random, the wrap of that vest looks great. It's low enough that it doesn't shout three-piece, but there's definitely something more elegant going on than a 2-pc SB. The suit is elegant, fun, and sober at the same time. Definitely wearable for business formal, as well as for weddings and such.

 

[random-adam]

Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii

Thanks, random and PB. Just getting back from internet vacation. Great pics. random, the wrap of that vest looks great. It's low enough that it doesn't shout three-piece, but there's definitely something more elegant going on than a 2-pc SB. The suit is elegant, fun, and sober at the same time. Definitely wearable for business formal, as well as for weddings and such.

Thanks! I had it made last year to get married in next weekend.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Originally Posted by random-adam

Thanks! I had it made last year to get married in next weekend.

Now I see why you wore the formal tie in the pic! You'll look very sharp, random. Congratulations.

 

[alexanduh]

i didnt know they made vests with lapels :O.

 

[GBR]

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