The Definitive MANBAG Thread Part I: 2009-2014

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by Razele

Dior is terrible They make so much money from asians its not funny Our biggest designer store in Australia (carries full RO / Lanvin / Ann D collections) gets DH purely "for the asians" They love KVA so much
You have them to thank for the abortive Dior "Bee" print coated-canvas bags. Remember them? I even remember seeing some bags printed with HELMUT LANG in huge letters back in 2003-04 in Tokyo. I though, "What happened, Helmut?" I saw it as the beginning of the end.

Edit to below: If you can stomach the price and the garish logos, LV makes nice stuff. I can't foul them on that; all my LV items have held up quite well, and those that haven't, they generally are good about fixing their problems for free. Check out their "Naxos" line of grained calf; I think they put out a Keepall in it this year. Prices are TOO insane, but it's really beautiful stuff.

 

[lovelux2010]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

^

Synthetic and corrected leathers are getting better by the year, so especially if you are not buying in person, it is very hard to tell. Other than Hermes, which is easy to tell at first touch, sometimes in person it is even becoming difficult to tell by touch the kind of leather it is (thanks to different kinds of treatments/embossings/grain, etc.). That's why I generally recommend getting good at spotting hardware; you can't really fudge ****** hardware with clever lighting or a chemical.

Anyway, as for "fashion" brands, unfortunately the changing demographic of luxury buyers changed the way many brands make them. Young folk with access to interwebz and fashion mags want the "it" thing, and have no clue what makes a good bag. They also tire of it quickly. SO, the brands got "smart" (bad for us!) and realized why spend $500 to make a bag they'll charge $1500 for, when they can still get $1500, reduce the quality of hardware/leather/manufacture, and only have to spend $45 to make it?

Prada, Gucci, etc. were the first to figure this out, others are quickly realizing it. AND, even though they still make nice items on the top end, they are also putting out "entry-level" collections that get mixed in, and are absolute crap.

Even Dunhill, which is seen to be a "classic" brand, has some lines that are really poorly constructed, glued together with crappy leather and papery nylon linings. Hermes is about the only brand that you can always guarantee... but last time I checked, a calf leather (Clemence) messenger bag was nearly $7,000.

EDIT: Top choices right now for excellent bags are mostly brands that we don't have in the States. I've become a major convert to japanese brands, which make nice stuff for excellent prices ($500 or so). Aniary, Bravura DelT, Isetan Men's, Porter, Luggage Label, etc. (Check out the links provided above). Among "designers," I can't really recommend anything unequivocally, though Prada and Marc Jacobs mainline items in the boutiques tend to still be nice. I also really like Valentino Garavani and Celine's recent collections, though they, too are all over the map and pricing is really absurd.

I would avoid Dior, Lanvin, and Fendi, which have nice style, but awful construction. Gucci is all over the map, as is Burberry Prorsum. YSL is nice, but sometimes weirdly styled. Versace is garish as hell, but strangely they still put out a nice product (well made.)

I also really like Trussardi 1911 right now, and Calvin Klein Collection, though the latter is difficult to find.


epic post!

i cant afford hermes, unfortunately. bv looks great but perhaps a little too delicate..will have to see
i'll check out mj mainline and ysl if i can find some subtle stying..
seems like louis vuitton quality is actually good. they have a keepall 45 is epi leather (not monagram)..although its still a bit on the "flashy" side..

 

[lovelux2010]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

You have them to thank for the abortive Dior "Bee" print coated-canvas bags. Remember them? I even remember seeing some bags printed with HELMUT LANG in huge letters back in 2003-04 in Tokyo. I though, "What happened, Helmut?" I saw it as the beginning of the end.

Edit to below:
If you can stomach the price and the garish logos, LV makes nice stuff. I can't foul them on that; all my LV items have held up quite well, and those that haven't, they generally are good about fixing their problems for free.

Check out their "Naxos" line of grained calf; I think they put out a Keepall in it this year. Prices are TOO insane, but it's really beautiful stuff.

if that bag was around £1000 would be perfect, but i cant justify £2k nor do i have the funds! what do you think about the epi? looks too bling but i have not seen in person

 

[rach2jlc]

Epi isn't too flashy; I've had a few pieces, and I don't like the stiffness or the grain of it (personally). I don't like how it ages, either, and it just feels a little plasticky to me. That being said, it holds up well and people who like it, love it.


In other news:

Just started a bag compliment to WAYWT called WAYCT (what are you carrying today).
This thread is getting large, so I figured that we could keep both going, this one for information/general discussion, the other for daily pics. So, post your stuff!

 

[brad-t]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

Could you please just go away? Surely there must be a Filson/Camping/Animal-Slaying-with-Bare-Hands thread somewhere in desperate need of your acutely virile sensibilities.

will you adopt me?

 

[lovelux2010]

any opinions on mulberry?.. this looks nice but i have not seen in person...

http://www.mulberry.com/#/storefront...2042/category/

 

[Desi]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

In other news:

Just started a bag compliment to WAYWT called WAYCT (what are you carrying today).
This thread is getting large, so I figured that we could keep both going, this one for information/general discussion, the other for daily pics. So, post your stuff!
but i don't own enough bags!!

 

[pdsf]

Originally Posted by Razele

Dior is terrible They make so much money from asians its not funny Our biggest designer store in Australia (carries full RO / Lanvin / Ann D collections) gets DH purely "for the asians" They love KVA so much
Dior is terrible cos they make so much money from Asians? Anyway, I just thought Dior made so much money from Asians because they were usually of smaller frame and could actually fit into their stuff. The brand also frequently has in-your-face branding and that type of aesthetics seems to be more popular amongst certain cultures. Disclaimer - I am Asian, not overweight or anything but still too big/chunky for Dior.

Like my Murphys I am not bitter as they are not really my style

Originally Posted by lovelux2010

any opinions on mulberry?.. this looks nice but i have not seen in person... http://www.mulberry.com/#/storefront...2042/category/
Can you post the pics? The link takes you back to the top page. Mulberry gets mixed reviews here. My experience is that they are too $$$$ for what they are.

Originally Posted by Uncontrol

will you adopt me?
Yeah, me too, if that means he'd get me that LV Naxos bag. A bag I recently fell in love with, by Dries Van Noten:

Okay, I admit that I am Dries whore, but I have seen it irl and it's very nice. The leather looked much better than how it's depicted in the photo. It should age very well. I can't stomach the US$1700 price tag though. Thanks Rach for your bag wisdom.

 

[lovelux2010]

this ones pretty amazing by BV
http://www.bottegaveneta.com/us/en/s...e=U;color=1000

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by lovelux2010

this ones pretty amazing by BV http://www.bottegaveneta.com/us/en/s...e=U;color=1000
Yeah, BV is wonderful; I have nothing bad to say about them. Excellent construction, nice hardware, attention to details, etc. I hope, as their popularity increases, they don't start "streamlining" (meaning cutting corners), but so far they're still very nice. As well, this upcoming season is really a knockout; I was able to see them in person at the BV store in Tokyo and easily found 5-6 bags I wanted. Of course, I didn't want to mortgage my house to get them, but anyway...

Also, pdsf, that Dries is nice! What is the size? Assuming it wasn't steamer-trunk size (haha), it looks like a great shape/style.

 

[Mr.Chen]

Man, BV is barry noice! the bag looks amazing!

 

[alliswell]

Quick question for the cognoscenti - I'm looking for a canvas/leather tote, big enough for a shoebox. Any suggestions would be welcome.

 

[stevent]

I'm looking for a duffel that is max carry on size. Right now I am thinking of getting a custom made when I go to Shanghai later this month (prob around $100ish with top tier materials) or getting a custom VT Duffel village tannery (http://www.villagetannery.com/carryon.html). The Ben Sherman from Urban Outfitters here is super cheap in price (not sure about quality?) http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/urban...ULTS&color=031 and I am also considering a Filson: http://www.filson.com/products/duffl...taProduct=1019 What do you guys think? Any other bags you guys would recommend (I prefer all leather but canvas/leather is ok) Price limited to under $500 for a non-custom bag?

 

[StephenHero]

I like these backpacks.

 

[rach2jlc]

^I actually kinda like those backpacks you posted. I'm typically anti-rucksack, but I think on the right person, they'd work.

Also kinda like this Jil bag on yoox. I have no idea where or when I'd use it, but the fabric and styling are unique, and the size is nice. Price is pretty good, too.

http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/JIL+SA...K/sts/sr_men80