The Constructive Criticism Thread (15 Thumb Minimum)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Subscribed. Hopefully I can contribute with something.
     


  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This fit was substantially less-thumbed than some of my others, and also less-thumbed than most of the fits posted around the same time.

    Curious for some feedback as to what might be wrong with it. Suit too tight maybe? Fabric not nice? Should I have not worn a belt? (The belt and shoes were made together as a bespoke project.)

    I'm aware that there is some lapel bowing. This is pretty much unavoidable for me with OTR stuff.

    Here's another shot with more detail of the various fabrics and textures.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fabric did it for me.

    Can't make up my mind on the square/tie. I think I like it, despite being a bit too matchy matchy
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2015


  4. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior member

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    Suit fabric looks like Shantung, too. Too much fuzziness for the formal colours and style.

    But also photography, where a few negative influences add up: too much contrast in the light (washed out white). Lots of creasing in the trousers. Hand-in-the-pocket makes waist tight. Lapel bowing is most pronounced from this angle. From my own experience, the same outfit may look drastically different depending on light, pose and background.
     


  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Cox, it was the fabric, I think.
     


  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    There’s much interesting discussion about stripes in the Good Taste thread; predictably, given the purpose of that thread, the consensus there is pretty conservative. So far as suiting fabrics are concerned, universally approved patterns are pin stripes on worsted and chalk stripes on woolens and in both cases these should not be too close together. Beyond that opinions tend to diverge.

    Personally I’m a touch more open to multi-, complex, shadow, and other non-simple stripes in shirting fabrics, but even there I don’t like them too obvious so I tend to stick to monochromatic ones. I’ve got a couple of T & A shirts like that, but it’s admittedly a look more common in the UK than elsewhere.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  7. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    All very interesting and thank you for the feedback. I still like this suit; the fabric speaks to me for some odd reason.

    Even more odd is the fact that less than a week later, i bought an almost identical suit for three times the price. However, that one is Brunello Cucinelli and really nice, including the fabric.

    Methinks brown suits are G-d's way of telling you that you're making too much money.
     


  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    But I love brown suits!
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Chulillo
    [​IMG]
    It's common knowledge that I am a big fan of blue jackets and gray pants, but there are objective(ish) and subjective issues with this outfit. Objectivish stuff: the collar points look like they are well outside the vest and the sleeves look half an inch too long. Subjective: I think that's a pretty formal vest and the fabric on that jacket is most certainly informal. The outfit has a hodgepodge quality to it, with the vest and pants being both gray but from difference outfits. One thing to consider going forward is the cut of your pants compared to the cut of your jackets. You like your jackets very tight, but your pants generally are comfortable and loose looking. I know that with pants I have like that, I generally wear them with my more loose fitting, comfortable jackets (or cardigans). And slimmer pants I'll not wear with jackets with a more generous cut. Anyway, 28 people liked it, which is great, but it didn't do it for me for those reasons.

    @sugarbutch
    [​IMG]

    There are those who will say that tie is not casual enough for that jacket. I'm not sure if I am one of them. Butchy, thoughts?

    @Braddock
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    That tie belongs with a rough suit or jacket, not something smooth and city.


    @DonCologne
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    Colors are spot on, but I think the multicolored flowers of the tie are too spring/summer for the jacket.
     


  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    @Chulillo 's shirt sleeves are not too long; it's the jacket sleeves that are way too short.

    Other than that, pretty spot-on analysis @Claghorn . @sugarbutch 's tie definitely belongs with a worsted suit.

    Mind you, these are all pretty good fits despite the nitpicks.
     


  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I don't see spotted ties like this as particularly formal. Even in hindsight, I'm okay with this combo. The jacket is a worsted check, not a tweed FWIW.
     


  12. calypso

    calypso Senior member

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    don't know if i thumbed or not but i really like sugarbutchs outfit.
     


  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks!
     


  14. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Sub.
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Going to give this thread another go

    @Marc Voorhees
    [​IMG]

    The jacket fits well and the suit is definitely a keeper. But the colors are a little lackluster (though I've seen similar color combinations managed to have a stronger effect, so I don't know why this isn't doing it for me here), and double breasted suits (formal) and loafers (very casual) are an odd pairing.

    @heldentenor
    [​IMG]
    It took me a bit to figure out what it is about this outfit that didn't quite work for me. In the end, I think it might be that the tie and the square are a bit too vibrant for the jacket. A subdued jacket can probably take one vibrant piece, but two takes contrast to discordant.

    @Andy57
    [​IMG]
    With the addition of the sweater, there is one too many warm elements. Had the bowtie been blue or green, I think I'd've liked it more. Or if the sweater had been a cooler color.

    @Anden
    [​IMG]
    I really like this outfit, and I think brown shoes can work with a black tie. But I wish the shoes were a bit darker.
     


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