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Enzo Custom Fabrics

RTC16

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Hi,

New member here in the market for a new suit. I stumbled across Enzo Custom suits who is/was a Style forum affiliate, and they have a convenient location in my city. Ultimately I want a simple navy/dark blue suit and don’t want to spend more than $1000. I tried on a couple off the rack jackets at Nordstrom (Hugo Boss, Ted Baker) and they fit decently well as I have a fairly normal build. However, both of those were around $900 and based on what I’ve read here, they’re low quality and low value.

I also reached out to a tailor who I got my wedding tux from (Baroni Prive) and he would charge $750 for a comparable suit. I’ve read a few threads about Baroni on this site and feedback wasn’t overwhelmingly positive. However, I will say that my tux fits like a glove and I’ve received many compliments on it. I paid $500 three years ago so that’s a big jump especially if the quality is questionable.

That brings me to Enzo, specifically the fabrics used. I see different price points (looking at the lower tier ones to stay in my range), different names/numbers, etc. The differentiating factors appear to be Super 120/130/140/150, a non-super wool material, and the mill it comes from. Here are a few examples:

Super 140s Wool Blue Solid:
Mill: Signature (guessing house/not a prestigious one)
Composition: 100% Wool, Medium Weight
Price: $590

100% Wool Blue Solid
Signature, 100% Wool, Medium
Price: $690

Wool Blue Solid
Mill: Reda, 100% wool, medium
Price: $795

Wool Blue Solid
Mill: Vitale Barberis, 100% wool, medium
Price: $690

Super 120s Wool Blue Solid
Mill: Enzo Sartori (also house?)
100% wool, medium
$495

Lots of numbers and mills and prices that are honestly a bit confusing. I’m hoping someone is able to shed some light on what would be the highest priority of focus, be that the mill, the material type, a super #, etc.

At the end of the day, this is most likely a 5x per year suit so it won’t get too much wear and tear. But it seems like anything south of $500 is fairly crappy and will require $100+ in tailoring to fit me somewhat like my tuxedo. So if I’m going to be spending $700-$900, it might as well be something I’ll love wearing for the next 4-5 years.

I appreciate any insight you’re willing to offer and look forward to exploring this forum even more!
 

MrOxford

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Your focus should be finding an HONEST tailor. Never buy fabric from a tailor. The tailor will charge a large mark-up on the swatch that you're seeing and feeling with your hands. You will start to see the tailor's talent with a patterned fabric. The lines or pattern will not line-up correctly, when the tailor dart the front part of the jacket. Buy fabric from a fabric merchant. The fabric merchant will educate you on the fabric because he want a sale for the day. You can haggle on price per yard. Stick with 100% worsted wool. Stick with solid colour wool at the start of your sartorial journey. As your disposable income increases, you have the money to splurge on super smooth cloth 120s and 150s wools. The really good stuff is 100% cashmere. Pricey! LoL... Many tailors will try to persuade you with fancy names like Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna, or Holland Sherry. The reason is the extra money the tailor earns on the fabric. The tailor is not selling you the fabric at cost to the tailor. I can tell from the facial expression that the tailor is..... lying. You need to find a CMT (cut, make, trim) tailor. I've met a bespoke tailor whom refuses to accept clothe provided by the customer.

Here's a link to a fabric merchant. You can browse the price per yard there.

 

gimpwiz

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Enzo has a pretty good reputation here, considering their price.

1. Don't worry much about super numbers. Thinner wool / higher super numbers are technically more impressive, but what are they getting you specifically? If you don't know the answer then you shouldn't focus much on it. These days, a super 110s (plus minus, so, 100, 110, 120) is perfectly good workhorse stuff. Feels luxurious, built tough, won't destroy itself in a hurry -- when it comes from a good mill. Higher super numbers are generally about luxury, but they're not an all-around "higher quality" when it comes to things that matter; higher super numbers have trade-offs. On the flip side, lower numbers, or in fact no super rating at all, generally implies (from good mills) higher durability, or that the cloth isn't exactly a fine worsted (see: various worsted flannels, woolen flannels, british tweeds, etc that don't have any super number posted.) TLDR for a standard suit? Stick to 100, 110, or 120 in most cases unless you have specific reasons not to.

2. Do however stick to well known mills. Yes you will pay a higher price because of their brand strength versus a hypothetical mill making similar quality but without a big name. However, you will trade that money for time searching for lesser known mills, and for many of them you will be gambling on a $1000 suit to save $50 in fabric. VBC is well known. It's not "the best" but it is perfectly good, and they rarely put out bad product. You can spend 20 hours researching mills and then spend thousands buying garments made from different cloths to figure out that, yknow, there are options you find better price-value than VBC. Or you can pay a few dollars extra and just get VBC and not worry about it today. (Or Reda, or Loro Piana, or Fox, or Minnis, or a number of well known mills.)

3. Simplest actionable advice? Combine above to just get a suit made in VBC perennial in a super 110s. This is your most basic, good quality option, that should be available almost anywhere. Unless you have specific reasons not to, usually specific experience or desires or absolutely love a fabric that isn't one of the above... there are a million options but super simple is to just do that.

4. To answer what MrOxford wrote: As always, you can trade your money for time. You can spend time to talk to a tailor, discuss how much fabric you need, hunt it down, buy it, have it shipped, etc. Or again you can keep it simple and let your tailor do the work for you, for which they may or may not add a markup. Also, a company like Enzo may not even allow you to bring your own suiting fabric. You'd have to ask. I wouldn't bother, especially not without having a relationship already built up or without knowing the tailor definitely takes customer supplied fabric.
 

Jamesbond1

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Your focus should be finding an HONEST tailor. Never buy fabric from a tailor. The tailor will charge a large mark-up on the swatch that you're seeing and feeling with your hands. You will start to see the tailor's talent with a patterned fabric. The lines or pattern will not line-up correctly, when the tailor dart the front part of the jacket. Buy fabric from a fabric merchant. The fabric merchant will educate you on the fabric because he want a sale for the day. You can haggle on price per yard. Stick with 100% worsted wool. Stick with solid colour wool at the start of your sartorial journey. As your disposable income increases, you have the money to splurge on super smooth cloth 120s and 150s wools. The really good stuff is 100% cashmere. Pricey! LoL... Many tailors will try to persuade you with fancy names like Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna, or Holland Sherry. The reason is the extra money the tailor earns on the fabric. The tailor is not selling you the fabric at cost to the tailor. I can tell from the facial expression that the tailor is..... lying. You need to find a CMT (cut, make, trim) tailor. I've met a bespoke tailor whom refuses to accept clothe provided by the customer.

Here's a link to a fabric merchant. You can browse the price per yard there.

And you think Sultan is honest? Or his staff has the knowledge of what they are selling? Without the selvage on the fabric a fabric is from the mill he claims that it is?
Think again….
 

breakaway01

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Your focus should be finding an HONEST tailor. Never buy fabric from a tailor. The tailor will charge a large mark-up on the swatch that you're seeing and feeling with your hands. You will start to see the tailor's talent with a patterned fabric. The lines or pattern will not line-up correctly, when the tailor dart the front part of the jacket. Buy fabric from a fabric merchant. The fabric merchant will educate you on the fabric because he want a sale for the day. You can haggle on price per yard. Stick with 100% worsted wool. Stick with solid colour wool at the start of your sartorial journey. As your disposable income increases, you have the money to splurge on super smooth cloth 120s and 150s wools. The really good stuff is 100% cashmere. Pricey! LoL... Many tailors will try to persuade you with fancy names like Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna, or Holland Sherry. The reason is the extra money the tailor earns on the fabric. The tailor is not selling you the fabric at cost to the tailor. I can tell from the facial expression that the tailor is..... lying. You need to find a CMT (cut, make, trim) tailor. I've met a bespoke tailor whom refuses to accept clothe provided by the customer.

Here's a link to a fabric merchant. You can browse the price per yard there.


A lot of inaccuracies and half-truths here. Whether you should buy your fabric from your tailor or yourself depends on the mill. Tailors can often purchase fabric at trade prices for much less than you can at retail. Fox Brothers fabric is a well known example of this.

Also don't recommend 100% cashmere for tailoring for most people, and definitely not as a suit fabric. Far too fragile for trousers.

The mills you listed as "fancy" make excellent cloths. It is not all about profit for the tailor.
 

breakaway01

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I also reached out to a tailor who I got my wedding tux from (Baroni Prive) and he would charge $750 for a comparable suit. I’ve read a few threads about Baroni on this site and feedback wasn’t overwhelmingly positive. However, I will say that my tux fits like a glove and I’ve received many compliments on it. I
...
At the end of the day, this is most likely a 5x per year suit so it won’t get too much wear and tear. But it seems like anything south of $500 is fairly crappy and will require $100+ in tailoring to fit me somewhat like my tuxedo. So if I’m going to be spending $700-$900, it might as well be something I’ll love wearing for the next 4-5 years.

So wait. You really love the fit of your Baroni tuxedo, people compliment you on the fit, and you want to roll the dice with a different maker...for what reason exactly? "Quality"? Fit is always king. You will be wearing the suit only 5x a year, so durability is not really an issue over the next 5 years.

If you can specify fabric with Baroni, agree with @gimpwiz that VBC 110 would be a terrific choice.
 

gimpwiz

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Indeed. $750 for a well fitting half canvas suit that you like is a solid price. MTM is always a risk.

People will say this has worse quality than before, or that has worse quality than some other. The question always is, what exactly do they mean by quality. A suit is made up of, in addition to some length of cloth and lining and buttons and so forth, in addition to labor, about a thousand decisions on how it's going to come together.

Some of those decisions matter a lot. If there canvassing in the chest area, or is it all fused? Is the stitching even and is the stitch density high, or are we afraid it'll come undone and need repairs? Is the fabric chosen strong enough for regular wear? Are the lapels cut in a way that's pleasing, are they rolled in a way that's pleasing? Is the collar shaped and attached in such a way that it hugs your neck (your shirt collar) at all times? Is the armhole well matched to your body shape?

Some of those decisions only matter stylistically. Do you like the lapel roll? That's not a question of function, but style. Some are functional on the day to day: with a good armhole, you're more comfortable and you can do more things without looking silly. Some are functional long-term: canvassing generally looks better, holds shape better, and lasts better than fused suits, especially ones made with cheaper fusables (see: fusable bubbling after dry-cleaning.)

But a lot of menswear blogs focus on trappings. Do the lapels show pick stitching? Are the sleeves working, or are the buttonholes fake? Do you get to choose contrast stitching?

And also, a lot of menswear blogs come into the discussion assuming a certain level of quality and luxury, that you may not find relevant. Are the lapels hand-padded? Is the collar hand-shaped, and hand-sewn? Are the buttonholes hand-made or made with a buttonhole machine?

So when people say something has poor quality, ask the following questions:

- Are they comparing in the same price point? If you say a $750 armani suit is poor quality compared to a $750 suitsupply suit, I will agree with you almost every time, because suitsupply at its price point simply uses better construction that will, generally, drape better, look better, and last longer. On the flip side, if someone says that Baroni has poor quality compared to Brioni Brunico (sorry), well mate, one of those costs like 10x as much as the other, and you may as well ignore their comparisons. Like comparing my 30 year old civic to a new ferrari, pointing out that it's not as nice inside is eye-roll inducing. ;)

- Similarly, are they expecting things that only come with much higher cost? Tons of handwork isn't going to be found at a $750 price point, because the math just doesn't work out well, unless you travel to buy from some one-man tailor in a very very economically poor country. And even then, it's difficult.

- Can they explain exactly what quality is lacking? A lot of people parrot "poor quality" without being able to list any actual issues. You'd want examples like: "fused construction, patterns don't line up so only get plain weaves if at all, poor cloths that drape poorly and breathe poorly, and to top it off, garish branded buttons made out of cheap plastic."

- Same question for people who say quality went down. What was it before and what is it now, exactly?

- Is it a one-off problem? Sometimes people talk of poor quality but it's obvious they just got something that was a one-off issue. Maybe missed during QC (bad), maybe just bad luck. Did the company make it right? (Could they reasonably be expected to make it right?)

Everyone loves to talk about quality but much fewer make clear the specific issues and also put into context how other alternatives are better at the price point.
 

stuffedsuperdud

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I might be able to help, as I've probably ordered more items from them over the past 7 years than anyone else on this forum. A few notes I've picked up from bugging their staff:

First, their "cheaper" fabrics are cheaper not necessarily because of some hazy quality metric but simply because of economies of scale. They act as a distributor to other makers and some fabrics they buy in huge quantities from mills. The rags trade also in general is pretty opaque, and it's entirely possible that a cheap off-brand fabric and something expensive coming through a fancy merchant might be from the same mill, just priced differently to segmented markets to to avoid competing against itself. So there's that.

As an example, a friend of mine got his workhorse blue suit from their off-brand line for like $600. It's a perfectly functional suit and the fit came out beautifully on the first try. For me, my favorite casual summer suit is also from one of their off-brand books. It's a 8oz mildly textured mid blue that I've worn a billion times, and it has yet to pill even in the highest-wear spots. Not bad for the $650 I paid.

They have all the books that MTM places typically have, and are also reasonably priced, as you probably saw from their site. My VBC suits from them were around $1000, and Loro Piana around $1800. So, a touch cheaper than most MTM places, and a bit more than what you'd pay for, say, SM's MTO options. Nothing dramatically good or bad here.

Of course, like everyone else is saying, fit ultimately is king, and if your current guy has you dialed in, it might be a step back to go somewhere else. To maximize the chances of getting it right the 1st time, note that like most MTM, Enzo Custom is highly dependent on who measures and fits you. Which of their showrooms are you going to? In my experience, Brad at the Charlotte site is by far their best employee. He loves menswear, is very attentive and detail oriented, knows the books by heart, and will not impose his own style on you. I went to Burgan a lot when I lived in DC, and he knows what he is doing (and IIRC is actually their longest tenured employee and a personal friend of the founder from before they got into this) but on my last experience with him, a COVID era zoom session, he was kinda phoning it in. It that is your site I would suggest starting with whoever else is there instead of him. Regardless of site, they do a lot of try-on garments for first-timers, and that's your best chance at making sure it comes out right on the first try so take full advantage of it and don't be shy about speaking up if you don't agree with where the fitter is going.

They don't have a house style but most of their employees came up through the SuitSupply ranks or otherwise have backgrounds in fashion and not necessarily classic menswear, and while they are good at accommodating requests, if you don't say anything at all they will make you look a bit trendier than the happy-medium favored on this site, so be mindful of that.
 

classicalthunde

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Is there a particular reason you're going MTM rather than RTW? What city are you based in?

Personally, I'd be very warry of no-name in-house fabrics, they are almost certainly below the quality of name brands (Harrisons group, VBC/Drapers, Loro Piana, HFW, etc.). One of my major complaints about Enzo was the numerous and significant price jumps just to get into decent cloth.

Strongly agree with all of @gimpwiz 's points above, stay below S120, shoot for a name brand mill (VBC perennial classics are good), get something between 250-350g weight wise. That should be doable for $1-1.5K from a good MTM place.

If you're not a tough fit and dont plan on using the suit that often, I'd also check out Suit Supply and Spier and Mackay's MTO programs, both should come in well under $1K, leaving you a chunk of change for alterations. I'd order 2 sizes of their OTR stuff, figure out which one works for you best and then pick out your cloth and styling details
 

RTC16

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Your focus should be finding an HONEST tailor. Never buy fabric from a tailor. The tailor will charge a large mark-up on the swatch that you're seeing and feeling with your hands. You will start to see the tailor's talent with a patterned fabric. The lines or pattern will not line-up correctly, when the tailor dart the front part of the jacket. Buy fabric from a fabric merchant. The fabric merchant will educate you on the fabric because he want a sale for the day. You can haggle on price per yard. Stick with 100% worsted wool. Stick with solid colour wool at the start of your sartorial journey. As your disposable income increases, you have the money to splurge on super smooth cloth 120s and 150s wools. The really good stuff is 100% cashmere. Pricey! LoL... Many tailors will try to persuade you with fancy names like Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna, or Holland Sherry. The reason is the extra money the tailor earns on the fabric. The tailor is not selling you the fabric at cost to the tailor. I can tell from the facial expression that the tailor is..... lying. You need to find a CMT (cut, make, trim) tailor. I've met a bespoke tailor whom refuses to accept clothe provided by the customer.

Here's a link to a fabric merchant. You can browse the price per yard there.

Thanks for the info. I’ve only been to my tailor a couple of times (although he comes strongly recommended). Would it be insulting to bring my own fabric if that’s a product he offers himself?
 

RTC16

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...


So wait. You really love the fit of your Baroni tuxedo, people compliment you on the fit, and you want to roll the dice with a different maker...for what reason exactly? "Quality"? Fit is always king. You will be wearing the suit only 5x a year, so durability is not really an issue over the next 5 years.

If you can specify fabric with Baroni, agree with @gimpwiz that VBC 110 would be a terrific choice.
You make some very valid points. I suppose my perspective is that if $750 is what I’d be spending for something that will likely fit me very well, should I aim for the best possible quality/fit at that price point, or play it safe with something that may not be constructed as well.

I’ll see if I can get details on the Baroni from the tailor. Thank you.
 

RTC16

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Indeed. $750 for a well fitting half canvas suit that you like is a solid price. MTM is always a risk.

People will say this has worse quality than before, or that has worse quality than some other. The question always is, what exactly do they mean by quality. A suit is made up of, in addition to some length of cloth and lining and buttons and so forth, in addition to labor, about a thousand decisions on how it's going to come together.

Some of those decisions matter a lot. If there canvassing in the chest area, or is it all fused? Is the stitching even and is the stitch density high, or are we afraid it'll come undone and need repairs? Is the fabric chosen strong enough for regular wear? Are the lapels cut in a way that's pleasing, are they rolled in a way that's pleasing? Is the collar shaped and attached in such a way that it hugs your neck (your shirt collar) at all times? Is the armhole well matched to your body shape?

Some of those decisions only matter stylistically. Do you like the lapel roll? That's not a question of function, but style. Some are functional on the day to day: with a good armhole, you're more comfortable and you can do more things without looking silly. Some are functional long-term: canvassing generally looks better, holds shape better, and lasts better than fused suits, especially ones made with cheaper fusables (see: fusable bubbling after dry-cleaning.)

But a lot of menswear blogs focus on trappings. Do the lapels show pick stitching? Are the sleeves working, or are the buttonholes fake? Do you get to choose contrast stitching?

And also, a lot of menswear blogs come into the discussion assuming a certain level of quality and luxury, that you may not find relevant. Are the lapels hand-padded? Is the collar hand-shaped, and hand-sewn? Are the buttonholes hand-made or made with a buttonhole machine?

So when people say something has poor quality, ask the following questions:

- Are they comparing in the same price point? If you say a $750 armani suit is poor quality compared to a $750 suitsupply suit, I will agree with you almost every time, because suitsupply at its price point simply uses better construction that will, generally, drape better, look better, and last longer. On the flip side, if someone says that Baroni has poor quality compared to Brioni Brunico (sorry), well mate, one of those costs like 10x as much as the other, and you may as well ignore their comparisons. Like comparing my 30 year old civic to a new ferrari, pointing out that it's not as nice inside is eye-roll inducing. ;)

- Similarly, are they expecting things that only come with much higher cost? Tons of handwork isn't going to be found at a $750 price point, because the math just doesn't work out well, unless you travel to buy from some one-man tailor in a very very economically poor country. And even then, it's difficult.

- Can they explain exactly what quality is lacking? A lot of people parrot "poor quality" without being able to list any actual issues. You'd want examples like: "fused construction, patterns don't line up so only get plain weaves if at all, poor cloths that drape poorly and breathe poorly, and to top it off, garish branded buttons made out of cheap plastic."

- Same question for people who say quality went down. What was it before and what is it now, exactly?

- Is it a one-off problem? Sometimes people talk of poor quality but it's obvious they just got something that was a one-off issue. Maybe missed during QC (bad), maybe just bad luck. Did the company make it right? (Could they reasonably be expected to make it right?)

Everyone loves to talk about quality but much fewer make clear the specific issues and also put into context how other alternatives are better at the price point.
Thanks for the perspective. I’m no trained eye but as far as I can tell with my solid black Baroni tux, nothing seemed off nor have I seen anything falling apart. As far as canvas, I’m sure that’s something that I’d need to ask the tailor. I’ve tried to do the feel test but not truly sure what exactly it is that I’m feeling in terms of layers.
 

RTC16

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I might be able to help, as I've probably ordered more items from them over the past 7 years than anyone else on this forum. A few notes I've picked up from bugging their staff:

First, their "cheaper" fabrics are cheaper not necessarily because of some hazy quality metric but simply because of economies of scale. They act as a distributor to other makers and some fabrics they buy in huge quantities from mills. The rags trade also in general is pretty opaque, and it's entirely possible that a cheap off-brand fabric and something expensive coming through a fancy merchant might be from the same mill, just priced differently to segmented markets to to avoid competing against itself. So there's that.

As an example, a friend of mine got his workhorse blue suit from their off-brand line for like $600. It's a perfectly functional suit and the fit came out beautifully on the first try. For me, my favorite casual summer suit is also from one of their off-brand books. It's a 8oz mildly textured mid blue that I've worn a billion times, and it has yet to pill even in the highest-wear spots. Not bad for the $650 I paid.

They have all the books that MTM places typically have, and are also reasonably priced, as you probably saw from their site. My VBC suits from them were around $1000, and Loro Piana around $1800. So, a touch cheaper than most MTM places, and a bit more than what you'd pay for, say, SM's MTO options. Nothing dramatically good or bad here.

Of course, like everyone else is saying, fit ultimately is king, and if your current guy has you dialed in, it might be a step back to go somewhere else. To maximize the chances of getting it right the 1st time, note that like most MTM, Enzo Custom is highly dependent on who measures and fits you. Which of their showrooms are you going to? In my experience, Brad at the Charlotte site is by far their best employee. He loves menswear, is very attentive and detail oriented, knows the books by heart, and will not impose his own style on you. I went to Burgan a lot when I lived in DC, and he knows what he is doing (and IIRC is actually their longest tenured employee and a personal friend of the founder from before they got into this) but on my last experience with him, a COVID era zoom session, he was kinda phoning it in. It that is your site I would suggest starting with whoever else is there instead of him. Regardless of site, they do a lot of try-on garments for first-timers, and that's your best chance at making sure it comes out right on the first try so take full advantage of it and don't be shy about speaking up if you don't agree with where the fitter is going.

They don't have a house style but most of their employees came up through the SuitSupply ranks or otherwise have backgrounds in fashion and not necessarily classic menswear, and while they are good at accommodating requests, if you don't say anything at all they will make you look a bit trendier than the happy-medium favored on this site, so be mindful of that.
Ironically it would be Brad as I’m located in Charlotte. The tailor I’ve been referring to in this thread is Walid at Myers Park tailors, who came recommended by several people and has done a lot of suits for Charlotte’s pro athletes. Not sure if you’ve had any interactions with him in the past and can speak to the differences between him and Enzo.

As for your experiences, for a year-round navy suit at Enzo, which will probably be worn mostly for weddings, interviews, formal work meetings, etc, is there a particular material that you think would best suit my needs and keep me within budget? I appreciate your help.
 

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