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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

DWFII

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Maybe we'll have bespoke makers use goodyear and gemming soon, too?
Yes!! The triumph of mediocrity over exceptionalism!

At which point we can all proceed to wondering and/or 'discussing'...or in the case of the more discerning, lamenting... what the insole is made of. Leather or leatherboard? Leatherboard or pressed paper? And don't forget toe puffs and heel stiffs--pressed paper or celastic? Pros and cons...and always against the premise that 'affordable' (cheaper) and faster is better.

Or that 'better' is too elitist. So 'unwoke').

Oh!...my bad...we don't have to wait.

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"Oh, happy day!"
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Stefan88

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Yes!! The triumph of mediocrity over exceptionalism!

At which point we can all proceed to wondering and/or 'discussing'...or in the case of the more discerning, lamenting... what the insole is made of. Leather or leatherboard? Leatherboard or pressed paper? And don't forget toe puffs and heel stiffs--rressed paper or celastic? Pros and cons...and always against the premise that 'affordable' (cheaper) and faster is better.

Or that 'better' is so elitist. So 'unwoke' (or should that be asleep?).

Oh!...my bad...we don't have to wait.
Glad to see you took the bait, @DWFII :-D

@daizawaguy here you go!
The heel of the G&G was interesting. The leather heel stiffener was quite thick, and was used in combination with what looked like a celastic/solvent heel stiffener.
20190629_164646.jpg20190629_164625.jpg20190629_164724.jpg20190629_164542.jpg20190629_164515.jpg20190629_164509.jpg
And yes, these were always a little tight for me.
 

DWFII

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Nick V.

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Glad to see you took the bait, @DWFII :-D

@daizawaguy here you go!
The heel of the G&G was interesting. The leather heel stiffener was quite thick, and was used in combination with what looked like a celastic/solvent heel stiffener.
View attachment 1199496View attachment 1199497View attachment 1199498View attachment 1199499View attachment 1199500View attachment 1199501
And yes, these were always a little tight for me.
Interesting.....
The gemming appears to be wider than typically seen.
That ought to help prevent the rare cases of slippage.
Still not as good as HW, but an improvement over an already effective method.
 

DWFII

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@daizawaguy here you go!
The heel of the G&G was interesting. The leather heel stiffener was quite thick, and was used in combination with what looked like a celastic/solvent heel stiffener.
View attachment 1199500View attachment 1199501
FWIW...from what I can see, the toe puff is celastic (or something very like it) with no leather reinforcing as on the heel stiff.

Don't see any real evidence that you cut the gemming free--looks pretty intact to me. Coming at it from the inside as you did, you could have slipped a screw driver under the insole to get it started and ripped it apart with your hands.

Or at least I suspect I could have.
 
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Stefan88

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Don't see any real evidence that you cut the gemming free--looks pretty intact to me. Coming at it from the inside as you did, you could have slipped a screw driver under the insole to get it started and ripped it apart with your hands.

Or at least I suspect I could have.
I just ripped off the insole with a mix of cutting and using a screw driver. Will give the rib a go later :D
 

DWFII

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god i cant believe it worked. we're now literally arguing about gemming
Don't be so disingenuous...that was your intent all along.

You don't want to talk about gemming, don't bring it up!
 

Manuel

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There's a very good article on gemming in shoegazing here.
I remember speaking something about this issue.......I think.....is here but this is of inferior quality nevertheless, much work still need to be done to improve handwelted.
 

patrickBOOTH

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It looks that there is a midsole on those, am I seeing that correctly? Also I heard that G&G puts some sort of webbing in between the upper vamp and lining to reduce creasing. Was any of that spotted?
 

DWFII

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pB,

Are you referring to @Stefan88 's post? No midsole...if I'm correct what you seeing as midsole is actually just the edge of the upper.

FWIW, I might point out that if @Stefan88 had tried to do the same thing with a HW shoe...esp. one made with quality insole shoulder, good hand wax and a shoemaker's stitch...chances are he would have had to cut the insole and outsole literally into pieces.

It might also be said that in GYW shoes the welt is fundamentally just for show. The cement that holds the gemming on is what holds the shoe together. At its most basic, it's 'cement construction'.

So it may come as no surprise, IIRC, that, in some of their models, G&G has unabashedly gone to full blown cement construction...no welt wanted.

Just saying'...
 
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Nick V.

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If that were the case why bother stitching the sole to the welt?
It serves no purpose/function? I think not....
 

Stefan88

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So it may come as no surprise, IIRC, that, in some of their models, G&G has unabashedly gone to full blown cement construction...no welt wanted.

Just saying'...
You're taking this out of proportions.
Yes, Gaziano & Girling has added some cemented shoes to their collection.
For light, soft and flexible summer shoes. The choice of construction serves a purpose that a welted shoe cannot.


It's clearly described on their web site, that it's a non-welted shoe.
An alternative to cemented construction for that shoe may be the blake, while goodyear or handwelting would defeat its purpose. Gaziano & Girling has several welted slip-on too.
 

Stefan88

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Also I heard that G&G puts some sort of webbing in between the upper vamp and lining to reduce creasing. Was any of that spotted?
Here you go.
It's a suede, so not much creasing to be seen, and I'm not sure the purpose of the webbing is that.

As for the midsole, @DWFII got it right. It's from the uppers.
1200611
 

daizawaguy

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Stefan88 - it would be good to post that on the GG site too. I'm surprised for a $1500-$2000 shoe the use of these synthetics - and that blue foam also doesn't fit well in my mind for a shoe in this price range. Heard there is also a foam of sorts under the insole, or is it only the blue part at the heel? There is something yellowish under the white gemming... Perhaps anyway, this discussion is better continued over at GG...
 

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