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The "Actively Discovering 'New' Brands" Thread

Claghorn

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This is a thread for folks to go about discussing brands they've discovered (defined as: not really discussed on SF yet) or would like to discover. This involves purchasing a product and reviewing it. Could be pants, jackets, squares, ties, suits, etc.

If you stumble on a brand but don't want to go about sampling it, still post about it here and hopefully someone else will be willing to.

Tagging some folks who, off the top of my head, might both be willing and able to contribute.
@Cleav
@EFV
@SeamasterLux
@sprout2
@TweedyProf
@Coxsackie
(also, please tag anyone else that might be game)

------------

First one: Tadino, a Spanish tie maker.
http://www.tadinostore.es/

I came across him on Instagram. Some of his ties were on sale for 49 euros with free shipping to the United States, and some of the non-sale ties were enticing, so I figured why not, I'll order one to at least see if the others are worth it.

After ordering, I reached out to the founder, Salvador Gadoy, for some basic info on his company. He's trained as an architect but developed a passion for menswear. At some point last year, he hired a seamstress and the two of them began studying ties. His stated goal is to be the first Spanish brand to produce unlined ties.

The tie is 100% handmade and everything is done in house--something which he considers very important.

Alright, so I ordered this wool tie, 3 fold, handrolled, and lined.


Long story short: I wouldn't recommend this tie, even at 49 euros.

The biggest, and really only, issue is the knot. It took me five tries to get a halfway decent knot (seen here). The first four attempts were bad (by normal standards even). The culprit? The lining is way too thick. Much too thick for a wool tie. At least, I'm assuming this is the culprit.

The images of this tie on his website demonstrate the problem:




After receiving the tie, I asked him about the lining (which is wool with a thin cotton layer facing the front), curious if his other three folds use the same lining. His English isn't fantastic, so I'm not 100% sure he understood my question, but it seems as though the other three fold wools use the same lining and that they will continue to do so.

He also said his focus is on seven fold ties. And it's a new endeavor for him, so I suspect that his product will continue to improve. If someone wants to try his sevenfold ties, they should--since the issue is probably in the lining, I'd think they'd be safe. But I'd caution against the three folds at the moment.

A couple of pictures from his website:



 
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Claghorn

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@mimo
@jrd617
 

jrd617

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Ahem, I was waiting for that tag :)

I don't know that I have anything truly "new" to review. My RTW wardrobe is full of good stuff SF already knows about:

Suits/Jackets/Coats/Pants: Zegna, Corneliani, Corneliani for PRL, Partenopea, Caruso, Canali, Belvest Howard Yount
Shirts: Barba, Mastai Ferretti, Kamakura

Some stuff I'd be interested in seeing reviewed:

-Viola Milano ties
-Chipp's new ancient madder ties
 

jrd617

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Are cloth reviews allowed?
 
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Claghorn

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Buy a VM or a Chipp (earn that tag)

I'd also like to see some of the new Berg&Berg reviewed.
 
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jrd617

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What about "new" tailors?

I'd like to see reviews on finished stuff from Paone and Corcos
 

jrd617

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Oh, got one! I have two pairs of Howard Yount pants coming in Italian-made fresco.

Will be interesting to see how they differ from the Minnis stuff
 

dirnelli

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The MTO line of handmade shoes by Dimitri Gomez in Paris also has to be one of the most undercelebrated products on SF, I propose hereby to redress that wrong:

http://www.dimitribottier.com/4.aspx

Gomez does bespoke for 3000€ and MTO for 1800€. But what many people don't realize is that his made to order line follows exactly the same handmade process as his bespoke line, except he's working from his stock of pre-made lasts instead of making a custom last for a specific customer. So basically, if you're not preoccupied with having a specific sculpted wooden last for your specific foot, you're saving €1200 on exactly the same shoes as his bespoke line. It shouldn't be a problem for most people's feet, since his pre-existing lasts come in every shape and size, in three different widths per foot size. So you get to choose every single design feature yourself, and every type of shoe style that he has already done, and you don't even have to choose the same last size between the left foot of the right foot. That's getting pretty damn close to bespoke for me, at only €1800, which seems like a steal, given that Dimitri is recognized as one of the best bespoke shoemakers in Paris.
 
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dirnelli

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If you're looking for handmade limited-edition bowties, this up and coming French brand is worth knowing about:

http://www.leloirenpapillon.com

Michael-François Loir it's constantly thrifting fabrics, 1 m here in 1 m there, and making up a few handmade bowties from them, probably no more than five or six per design.
His other specialty are his hand-sculpted lapel pins, which are his trademark.
He'll be exposing at Pitti for the first time in June, so I predict he's going to attract a lot more buzz as of that moment.
 

dirnelli

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France offers host of great value-for-money propositions (are you sensing a theme here?), which never really gets celebrated by the rest of SF, except notably in the French tailoring thread, worth checking out:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/346199/...ad-e-g-camps-de-luca-cifonelli-smalto-and-etc

In the bespoke shirt-making department I would quickly highlight both Courtot and Lucca in Paris, at 250€ per fully handmade shirt.

And the record for the least-expensive fully handmade bespoke suit must be held by soon-to-retire Jean Rotin in Marseilles, 800€ for a jacket IIRC.
 
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Claghorn

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devil.gif

You should include pictures as well
 

poorsod

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I met up with Mary a few months ago in Paris and was able to schedule an initial visit and a fitting in the same week. I believe her shirt making business is unusual in that she does everything herself - the pattern making, cutting, sewing and embroidering.

The initial visit involved getting measurements, choosing fabric and choosing the collar shape.

I chose something from the Thomas Mason book

1000



and the voile Bonfanti (top swatch).

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The fitting later in the week was with a simple white shirt as described in the initial post, so I won't reiterate.

I've made some comments before:
During the process, she sends pictures

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It took about 2-3 months to compete the shirts.

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Note the hand made buttonholes

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Pleated cuffs, three on one side, two on the other
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Split gusseted shirt tails
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Round 2

Thomas Mason linen

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