SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[smittycl]

I think so. I started this thread because I like to discuss tailoring, but find it difficult to have convos on the CM side of the board nowadays. I assume the Husbands thread will eventually devolve into people posting, "who actually wears this?" "Is this streetwear?" "Ah, fashion swings again." etc etc etc.

I guess you're likely correct on the arguing. I think it's a great idea for a thread. Actually wish my office would power down a bit suit-wise.

 

[clee1982]

I think so. I started this thread because I like to discuss tailoring, but find it difficult to have convos on the CM side of the board nowadays. I assume the Husbands thread will eventually devolve into people posting, "who actually wears this?" "Is this streetwear?" "Ah, fashion swings again." etc etc etc.

I would think husband paris stuff is quite wearable, actually can't think of any other RTW with similar aesthetics (maybe Tom Ford but TF has stronger chest vs. this feels more lean everywhere).

 

[Gus]

I had a really nice seersucker suit from them.
It "looked" great but the jacket was too tight to actually move in.
I still have a denim western i wear all the time and some navy wool fresco suit trousers that are really nice. I’d love to get another suit in a fuller cut.

the suit:

Spoiler

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Solid navy seersucker is a great look. I agree that a bit more of a relaxed fit would be ideal in the context of this thread.

I've been in contact with The Armoury for a MTO in navy seersucker in their Model 7 which is unlined and no canvas.

 

[Epaulet]

I'm really enjoying this thread as well! It's fascinating to see how our tailoring business has evolved throughout the pandemic.

Two years ago, we made all of our custom tailored clothing with Southwick. My number one fabric was wool fresco. The majority of our orders were full suits in four-season wools or tweed sportcoats. Guys mostly ordered for professional work attire.

These days, we're the second-largest client for Hickey Freeman. Our number one fabric is dyed Japanese Sashiko cotton.. quickly followed by casual chore coats in tweed and flannel. I'd say that most customers are looking for a unique and personalized item.. rather than something simple for work.

 

[oulipien]

find it difficult to have convos on the CM side of the board nowadays.

I'm pretty sure the only thread on that side I'm in is the NMWA one, which is probably unusual in a lot of ways, but I'm kind of surprised it's as bad as all that—what's changed?

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm pretty sure the only thread on that side I'm in is the NMWA one, which is probably unusual in a lot of ways, but I'm kind of surprised it's as bad as all that—what's changed?

I think there was a special community here about ten years ago made up of people who had a good sense of humor and a lot of knowledge about classic men's style. Over the years, many of those people left one by one for various reasons. Some moved on and started wearing different clothes, some started businesses, some didn't like how the forum felt increasingly commercial. The community there now feels different.

Now the CM board is mostly focused on: 1) expensive dress shoes as standalone objects, 2) boring clothes, and 3) discussions about who made what so people can find cheaper sources for things.

Someone on the CM side of the board recently likened the board to an "academic peer review." Like how you would submit a paper into a journal and get critiqued on it, this person felt this is what happens to posts. And I think he saw this as a good thing, as it helps The Dialectic that presumably turns people into better dressers. I personally find the dynamic off-putting and there's rarely any good humor or camaraderie on that side of the board, at least outside of affiliate threads. Threads quickly devolve into political fights, the most boring takes on clothes (e.g., "is this from the Derelicte collection?"), and repeats of the same grumblings about how no one dresses up anymore.

 

[kjb]

I think so. I started this thread because I like to discuss tailoring, but find it difficult to have convos on the CM side of the board nowadays. I assume the Husbands thread will eventually devolve into people posting, "who actually wears this?" "Is this streetwear?" "Ah, fashion swings again." etc etc etc.

oh so you've spent time in the Drakes thread too...

 

[pwbower]

Wait a minute, is this a CM thread focused on fun and encouragement rather than rancor and politics?? THANK YOU. I might even post some pics, which I have never done. You people seem nice.

 

[物の哀れ]

Solid navy seersucker is a great look.

Agreed.

Bonus regular seersucker.

 

[Epaulet]

Here's two recent suits that we ran in Natural & Aubergine Japanese cotton sashiko. This has been a really fun project! We get the fabric from Japan, wash and dye it in Los Angeles, then send it to Hickey Freeman in Rochester for production. The end product is a MTM suit in this rad textured cotton pique.

This is typically a very casual fabric (martial arts uniforms are pretty casual), so I think it's a nice SW&D take on the typical tailored suit

 

[Gus]

It may be a small detail to some, but I like a 3 patch pocket jacket, with one of them being a patch chest pocket for a more casual/relaxed style.

 

[Epaulet]

It may be a small detail to some, but I like a 3 patch pocket jacket, with one of them being a patch chest pocket for a more casual/relaxed style.

Same! I'm a huge fan of pairing a ticket pocket to an open patch hip pocket as well. We have a great customer in Hong Kong who always orders his jackets with this detail, and it's really nice.

 

[Gus]

These double patch hip pockets are ideal for your phone. You don't see the weight of the phone causing the outside pocket to sag or bulg.

I'm a huge fan of pairing a ticket pocket to an open patch hip pocket as well. We have a great customer in Hong Kong who always orders his jackets with this detail, and it's really nice.

View attachment 1744683

 

[Epaulet]

These double patch hip pockets are ideal for your phone. You don't see the weight of the phone causing the outside pocket to sag or bulg.

Ah good call. I know that he uses it for the HK metro card. I'm honestly not sure if it's large enough to hold a phone though.

 

[clee1982]

Here's two recent suits that we ran in Natural & Aubergine Japanese cotton sashiko. This has been a really fun project! We get the fabric from Japan, wash and dye it in Los Angeles, then send it to Hickey Freeman in Rochester for production. The end product is a MTM suit in this rad textured cotton pique.

This is typically a very casual fabric (martial arts uniforms are pretty casual), so I think it's a nice SW&D take on the typical tailored suit

View attachment 1744668 View attachment 1744669 View attachment 1744670 View attachment 1744671 View attachment 1744672 View attachment 1744673 View attachment 1744674

how do they stand over time? Does it bleed color at all?