Suit pocket flaps, or not?

[Soph]

Originally Posted by LARon

Leave it to Tomasso -- always has the right photo/sound patch ready. Yes, I have seen these. Do people still wear such jackets? Aren't they really more for fox hunt jackets? Have they ever really caught on with Americans?

I put my shotgun shells in the top pocket

 

[timeless]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I agree 100%.

Patch pockets are difficult to cut well. When you have one front and center like a chest patch, you will notice if it is not really great.

Alden wrote something about this on the London Lounge once about how difficult patch pockets are to do well in general. I prefer them to be a bit rounded and smaller at the top than the bottom.

I do not like much of what Borrelli does, but they cut a great patch pocket. Anybody looking to have a coat made with PP should visit a Borrelli shop.
I agree that Borrelli does a great job with patch pockets. I have 3 Borrelli patch pocket suits with a patch chest pocket and I continiue to get loads of compliments when I wear them...just a bit different than the norm.

 

[Dragon]

My default for suits are jetted pockets, and I will go for flaps every once in a while. Never tried patch pockets for my suits, but maybe someday (although I`m not eager to try).

For sports jackets my default is patch pockets, and I get flaps on occassion. I am thinking of trying jetted someday on a sports jacket as well.

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by whoopee

I like flapless patch pockets on summer suits and blazers. I think the chest patch works only for blue sport coats, and even then should be done delicately, lest the left side of the jacket be too cluttered. I am wavering between flapped patch pockets (with bellows) and flapless patch on a medium weight tweed suit project.

In regards to the original question, short of formal wear, always flaps on my besom pockets.
It seems to me that patch chest pockets also work well on spring/summer type fabrics in khaki, sand, etc.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by LARon

Leave it to Tomasso -- always has the right photo/sound patch ready. Yes, I have seen these. Do people still wear such jackets? Aren't they really more for fox hunt jackets? Have they ever really caught on with Americans?

John Steed on "The Avengers" wore flapped breast pockets frequently. He also wore jackets with no pocket on the chest at all. They're just not your usual OTR fare.

As for the original question, I like flap pockets on everything short of dinner jackets. I don't care for the way jetted pockets look, and I don't like how they sag over time. At this point, I can't imagine ever buying a flapless suit/sportcoat.

I like patch pockets when done well and on the right coat.

 

[LARon]

The John Steed reference underscores the point that breast flaps are more a British than American feature. In all other respects I agree with Doc.

 

[grimslade]

The David Chu wool sportscoat that was recently up on Sierra has unflapped patch pockets, including the breast pocket, pretty good waist suppression, spalla-camicia-style stitching on the shoulders, no shoulder-padding and is half-lined. It's an "olive-heather" color. Also has a working, detachable collar button that, when affixed, peeks out in the gorge. It's not perhaps "orthodox," but I think the total package works. And the slight shortness of the jacket (it's 30&quot has grown on me.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by LARon

Aren't they really more for fox hunt jackets? Have they ever really caught on with Americans?

If by "caught on" you ask whether they are on the rack at Men's Wearhouse, I doubt if they are.

 

[Get Smart]

I have a Huntsman tweed hacking jacket with breast flap pocket and it's a nifty detail. You could always tuck it into the pocket if you want it to appear more traditional, but the breast flap is definitely a feature you dont see often and makes the jacket stand out, in a subtle way

 

[LARon]

Originally Posted by Will

If by "caught on" you ask whether they are on the rack at Men's Wearhouse, I doubt if they are.

No, I'm thinking more along the lines of: if you passed 100 men in suits on the street -- all of whom had pockets on their jackets -- would you expect more than five or ten to have flap pockets?

As to your reference to Men's Wearshouse, I'm not quite sure what it means. Is it your view that MH defines what has "caught on"? (I just don't have sufficient familiarity with their business to know 1) what percentage of men shop there, nor 2) whether they sell things (quality aside) other than the conventional, i.e., what you'd find in any other store.)

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by LARon

No, I'm thinking more along the lines of: if you passed 100 men in suits on the street -- all of whom had pockets on their jackets -- would you expect more than five or ten to have flap pockets?

As to your reference to Men's Wearshouse, I'm not quite sure what it means. Is it your view that MH defines what has "caught on"? (I just don't have sufficient familiarity with their business to know 1) what percentage of men shop there, nor 2) whether they sell things (quality aside) other than the conventional, i.e., what you'd find in any other store.)

MW apparently sells more suits than anyone in the United States, with an emphasis on inexpensive ready to wear.

Unusual details, such as a flap on a breast pocket, are, if not for a functional purpose, a deliberate statement that the coat was bespoke. The men that have them do so because they don't want to see their clothes walking towards them on the street. "Catching on" is just what they don't want to have happen.