Suit Jacket Length

[Shikar]

I am 6 1, and prefer blazers in 46L and suits in 46R.

Regards.

 

[literasyme]

What these picture illustrate is that sizing is completely unreliable -- the 40R navy blazer looks like the longest of the three, certainly longer than the 40L corduroy jacket.

However -- and I know that that isn't what you're asking -- body length seems like the least of your problems. They all look a size too big. The collar on the cord jacket has a huge gap, and the other too hang off your body to an extent that sizing down seems like a better choice than having them altered. Taking the sleeves up seems fairly easy to do, especially if the buttonholes are fake/absent. I'd buy a coat based on body fit, sleeves can usually be adjusted.

 

[Gus]

I am 6' 2", 185, with a long torso and 35 inch arms. I have worn a 41L or 42Long since the 80's. I always did it to be sure my jackets covered my rear. And, ever salesman said I should wear it. However, now I find that a Long is too long for me and makes me look older and my suits/jackets look older. I have been buying 42R for about 1 1/2 years and like the shorter look. But find it still long enough to cover my backside.

To go one step further I have taken some of my better jackets in to have them shortened. Three are now 1 1/2" shorter and they look great. The fact that they had a good button stance, were LONG already and had patch pockets that were moved seemed to keep everything in balance when done. I'm delighted with the results.

 

[TheFoo]

I've met a lot of alterations tailors with dubious taste, so I wouldn't necessarily worry that they're telling you to wear a long instead of a regular. I also don't think you can reduce the science of jacket length to precise measurements. Certain styles and cuts in different fabrics will look better at different lengths on the same body. At the end, the only good test is the eyeball test.

 

[literasyme]

+100

 

[bigmar11]

I have the exact same measurements. 16 -36 shirts and 42 suit. I also have the same dilemma- always buy 42 L but fear its the salesman making sure there is enough sleeve. From now on I'm only getting 42R.

One thing I do have figured out is shirts. Get Brooks Bros shirts 16/36 online and have my tailor take in the sides.

 

[gregaz]

What a timely topic! I was just getting ready to post something about this issue, and it turns out you are already discussing it, and I am not alone. I am 6'1", and have always been told I am a 40L, because I have 36" arms. But, my legs are longer (33" inseam) than the torso, and recently I have discovered that I prefer the look of 40R jackets with where they end.

The one thing that has not been discussed is the natural waist of a jacket. I had a tailor tell me once that if you wear a shorter jacket, the natural waist will fall higher than it should and look weird. Any thoughts on this?

Also, here are four photos of my fits - first two are 40R's and second two are 40L's The difference in length is about 2". Thoughts on length?

40R

40L

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by gregaz

What a timely topic! I was just getting ready to post something about this issue, and it turns out you are already discussing it, and I am not alone. I am 6'1", and have always been told I am a 40L, because I have 36" arms. But, my legs are longer (33" inseam) than the torso, and recently I have discovered that I prefer the look of 40R jackets with where they end.

The one thing that has not been discussed is the natural waist of a jacket. I had a tailor tell me once that if you wear a shorter jacket, the natural waist will fall higher than it should and look weird. Any thoughts on this?

Also, here are four photos of my fits - first two are 40R's and second two are 40L's The difference in length is about 2". Thoughts on length?

40R

40L

yes imho the the reg jacket length looks good. but the waist length on the long looks better.
if the the pockets on the long seem to be rather high then shorten the bottom.
but watch that pocket space, because 2" would be far too much.

 

[gregaz]

Originally Posted by a tailor

yes imho the the reg jacket length looks good. but the waist length on the long looks better.
if the the pockets on the long seem to be rather high then shorten the bottom.
but watch that pocket space, because 2" would be far too much.

To be perfectly fair, the only jacket that has been tailored is the first one. Is the waist length something that can be tailored easily, or is it something that is difficult to adjust?

 

[TC (Houston)]

I think the first jacket is by far and away the best, and the length (which is certainly on the shorter side of acceptable) suits your physique very well. It's actually quite flattering IMHO. The button stance is perhaps just a tad high. I have the same issue, and just live with it until I go bespoke. Of course the other alternative is to shorten the longer jackets, but the proportions of those in relation to your body shape just do not look right. Admittedly it could be the blousiness of the others that are making them look quite wrong for you.

 

[gregaz]

Originally Posted by TC (Houston)

I think the first jacket is by far and away the best
You would - it's a Zegna!

Thank you for your comments - really appreciate it.

 

[sho'nuff]

i honestly think the last two (the longs) are better looking on you than the regs.

 

[TC (Houston)]

Originally Posted by gregaz

You would - it's a Zegna!

Thank you for your comments - really appreciate it.

LOL, great, so now you can wear my clothes better than I wear them myself.

Seriously, the shoulders on that jacket are excellent.

 

[Dburr]

My jackets end at thumbs end - anything shorter or longer does not work for me. JMHO

 

[literasyme]

I much prefer the look of the Rs on you -- the Ls make your legs look short, sort of paradoxically given that they're actually disproportionately long... I wonder about the placement of the waist argument. If your torso is disproportionately short (I have the same issue), surely your waist will be higher than it "ought to" be -- i.e., if you're tall because you have long legs, then your waist might well be at the same height as that of a smaller person with shorter, but less disproportionate legs. Does that make sense?