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Suit brands for 29'' waist and 42'' shoulders - A wardrobe expansion

Kraken

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[NOTICE TO READ: If a long post annoys you, you can simply read the 1st and last paragraph.]

After browsing the forums and having learned what proper fit is, I am currently faced with an issue. I know that the RTW clothes I bought don't fit me will and I concluded that MTM/Bespoke is the only way to go. The problem is that I have a pronounced V shape and I am also very thin. I am 6' 2'' tall and weight 145 pounds. To get a good fit on RTW suits, I would need 42''-40'' shoulders and 29''-31'' waists. I am 23 years old and a graduated from university 2 years ago.

Because of that, I started buying some MTM clothes. I got 6 MTM shirts and a bespoke blazer at a local italian tailor in Ottawa. I also bought 3 kent wang shirts which I needed to slim the waist by an additional 4''. Unfortunatly, the 2 suits I own are RTW and don't fit that great, but they are my only suits. I am an external auditor for a Big 4 accounting firm and I need to dress professionally. My responsabilities are increasing and I am expecting to be manager in 2- years. I have to scale my wardrobe up to then. I currently have a large selection of ties and pocket squares so I don't appear to look the same every day. I am also slowly acquiring a collection of chained cufflinks.

I am looking into buying a new suit around December. My initial plans were to get another bespoke suit from my local tailor. I am confidant the fit will be better than that of my blazer since it is a second commission. His prices are a bit step, but there are not many good tailors in the area and he has a very good reputation. I feel confidant in his skills. A suit with the fabric I wanted would cost about 1,700 and 2,300 with an extra pair of trousers. I am also considering making it a 3 piece suit (2-button peaked) with one of the trousers to be worn with suspenders. I have never worn suspenders and I want to know if I like them or not. Usually when I wear a belt it is just for show since the trousers can rest above my waist bones.

With that said, the dilemna I am facing is at this rate, it will be very slow for me to expand my wardrobe. I am a crazy perfectionnist and in the long run I should be perfectly happy with my wardrobe. But then again, maybe I am wrong to having abandonned 'commercial' suit brands? Maybe I just didn't look hard enought or at the right places and I could buy suits that would equally fit me?

Is there any brands that you think would suit the bill? Does anyone have a better strategy to expand my wardrobe? If more information is needed, I will repost but I already feel bad because I can never make a short post... Thanks for the help!
 

Nicola

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Your shoulders or your chest is 42"? Shoulders that size aren't that wide.

Do you need a suit or will odd jackets work?
 

LAPL

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I wear a 42 R in suits and I have a waist that is 28.5-29 inches as well. However, unlike you, I am 6'0 175lbs. All of the suits I currently own are Ralph Lauren Black Label suits and they fit great. They have a 7 inch drop from the chest to the waist which only comes to a 35, but my tailor is able to re-cut the pants to eventually make them fit great. In addition the jacket needs a lot of work, but the end result is always great for me. Besides bespoke, this has been the best option I have come across. You can find RLBL suits on this board for relatively cheap prices. Hope this helps.
 

Kraken

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The 42'' correspond to suit measurements, not sure if that is based on chest or shoulders. That is usually the size to fit my shoulders right. I took some measurements of my actual body (bodybuilder style) and here are the precise numbers:

36'' chest (measured under armpits)
45'' shoulders (measured by wrapping around body)
29'' waist (above waist bone and under belly button)

I will take another look at RLBL as was suggested. Do they all have the same cut or should I look for a particular suit?

I actually prefer suits but odd jackets are fine. The suits are required for important meetings. Some of the juniors occasionally wear suits and I don't want to be dressed down all the time. As a result I want to wear suits a minimum of 3 days a week.
 

SkinnyGoomba

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36" Body Builder style chest?

Seriously i must be mr. Olympia with my 38" chest.

Honestly your shoulders are probably normal and you probably wear a 38 or 36 Reg.
 

David Reeves

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Judging by your over arm measurement your probably a stock size. I actually have a 36" chest but I have the shoulder of a size 40"..........adding to problems with buying off the rack I have a big ass too.
 

SkinnyGoomba

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Originally Posted by David Reeves
Judging by your over arm measurement your probably a stock size. I actually have a 36" chest but I have the shoulder of a size 40"..........adding to problems with buying off the rack I have a big ass too.

or is that what the ladies tell you?
 

EZETHATSME

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Originally Posted by LAPL
I wear a 42 R in suits and I have a waist that is 28.5-29 inches as well. However, unlike you, I am 6'0 175lbs. All of the suits I currently own are Ralph Lauren Black Label suits and they fit great. They have a 7 inch drop from the chest to the waist which only comes to a 35, but my tailor is able to re-cut the pants to eventually make them fit great. In addition the jacket needs a lot of work, but the end result is always great for me. Besides bespoke, this has been the best option I have come across. You can find RLBL suits on this board for relatively cheap prices. Hope this helps.

+1

I wear a 42R, my waist is 32. Wide shoulders, narrow waist... 5'11 175 lbs. RLBL fits great for me, although I too have to have the pants worked on some. Well worth it though. Keep an eye out for a seller named "Holdfast" on here, he often sells Black Label at good prices. I just purchased a charcoal suit from him, it is beautiful. Good luck!

EZ
 

Nicola

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Originally Posted by Kraken
The 42'' correspond to suit measurements, not sure if that is based on chest or shoulders. That is usually the size to fit my shoulders right. I took some measurements of my actual body (bodybuilder style) and here are the precise numbers:

36'' chest (measured under armpits)
45'' shoulders (measured by wrapping around body)
29'' waist (above waist bone and under belly button)
.


But you're wearing a 42? Only way that makes sense is if it's some slim cut narrow shouldered brand. You'd be swimming in a normal 42. I'd be swimming in a 42 and I'm bigger then you.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Kraken
The 42'' correspond to suit measurements, not sure if that is based on chest or shoulders. That is usually the size to fit my shoulders right. I took some measurements of my actual body (bodybuilder style) and here are the precise numbers:

36'' chest (measured under armpits)
45'' shoulders (measured by wrapping around body)
29'' waist (above waist bone and under belly button)


Suit sizes are based on chest measurement, so you have a 36" chest but wear a size 42? You should really post some pics as I can't see how you can possibly wear a suit 3 sizes too big without it looking 3 sizes too big.
 

apropos

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Originally Posted by EZETHATSME
+1

I wear a 42R, my waist is 32. Wide shoulders, narrow waist... 5'11 175 lbs. RLBL fits great for me, although I too have to have the pants worked on some. Well worth it though. Keep an eye out for a seller named "Holdfast" on here, he often sells Black Label at good prices. I just purchased a charcoal suit from him, it is beautiful. Good luck!

EZ

Actually, sadly, he hardly puts stuff up for sale anymore.
frown.gif
 

zjpj83

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Originally Posted by Kraken
The 42'' correspond to suit measurements, not sure if that is based on chest or shoulders. That is usually the size to fit my shoulders right. I took some measurements of my actual body (bodybuilder style) and here are the precise numbers:

36'' chest (measured under armpits)
45'' shoulders (measured by wrapping around body)
29'' waist (above waist bone and under belly button)

I will take another look at RLBL as was suggested. Do they all have the same cut or should I look for a particular suit?

I actually prefer suits but odd jackets are fine. The suits are required for important meetings. Some of the juniors occasionally wear suits and I don't want to be dressed down all the time. As a result I want to wear suits a minimum of 3 days a week.


You have a 36 inch chest but are wearing a 42 jacket? Huh?
 

LAPL

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Judging by your posted measurements you aren't a 42 in suits, but rather a 36. That being said, you'd probably take a 36 in a Ralph Lauren Black Label which means the pants would be a 29. This would fit you perfectly and most likely need very little alterations. I'd recommend going to a store that sells RLBL and trying on a 36 and potentially a 38, but I HIGHLY doubt that you wear a 42 in suits.
 

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