Stuggling to find a comfortable loafer size, should I just give up on loafers?

[HPT704]

I've read through a lot of past threads and a lot of people seem to agree that loafer sizing is difficult, but often the advice is contradictory. Most advice seems to recommend going down a size, so i tried an Allen Edmonds 9.5 length Wide width. It felt tight in the width and would flair out on the sides, but was very loose in the heel. So I went down to a 9 length X-Wide width, which felt better in the toes/width, but still very loose in the heel (while at the same time causing chafing on the achilles and malleolus). I tried wearing them with insoles which helps with the looseness in the heels but increases the achilles chafing and flairing on the sides. Not sure if I should make any adjustments for length/width, or just power through the pain?

 

[paxonus]

What is your Brannock size? I have quite a few pair of AEs, including loafers, and they are all basically true to size. The key for me was getting the correct width.

 

[maxalex]

Loafers are generally more loose in the heel than lace shoes, although your pictures do look like those are too wide along the sides. That said, the floppy loose loafer is a hallmark of trad Ivy style that I recall from my youth in New England, although I personally do not approve.

Are you sure you need wide? Just a guess but it could be that a normal width would fit better overall, and any resultant tightness in the toe box would work itself out as the leather softens and breaks in. A lot depends on the socks you wear--thinner is better with loafers in my opinion, or even no socks in summer (in that case I add inserts to keep the shoes dry and clean). The achilles pain is common in new loafers and usually resolves as the leather breaks in. Are you shopping in one of their 78 stores? If so, I would keep trying different sizes...likely you'll find something.

 

[dieworkwear]

What you're seeing is that sides bowing out. @ntempleman, who works as a bespoke shoemaker, once explained to me why this happens with ready-to-wear loafers, but I don't remember what he said. Perhaps he can chime in.

 

[rjc149]

Allen Edmond shoes are all built on different lasts. The "last" is the wooden template, or mold if you will, that the shoe is built around.

So, different Allen Edmond models will be designed to fit different types of feet, depending on the shape, contour, and volume of the last.

The key to getting a good fit with AE is to find their last that best fits your feet. This may mean giving up on a model you like, if the last just doesn't fit well. A 9.5 on one last may not fit well, while it may fit like a glove in another last.

Given that they offer a good variety of loafer models, you should find something in a last that fits you well. It's possible this particular loafer's last isn't for you.

A Complete Guide to Allen Edmonds' Lasts

Allen Edmonds shoes come in a variety of lasts and lengths, ranging from 6 to 16. They do offer middle sizes, and each half size increases by approximately one-sixth of an inch. The widths of Allen Edmonds shoes range from the narrowest AAA to...

www.styleforum.net

 

[ntempleman]

loafers are a tricky one to fit right, I’d say you’d need something a fair bit narrower through the sides judging by the photos. That would typically make the front narrower on most rtw shoes though, which might not suit you all that well. Worth a try at least

 

[HPT704]

As dieworkwear mentioned, they look wide in the pictures because they are bowing out. The same thing happened when I tried a narrower model.

 

[HPT704]

@dieworkwear Thank you, "bowing out" is the terminology I was looking for.

 

[dieworkwear]

those loafers 🤝 me 30 mins into a house party

bowing out

 

[HPT704]

@paxonus I'm not sure what my Brannock size is, AE's website recommends going in store to get sized, so I'm going to try that. So far I've just been ordering online.

 

[HPT704]

@rjc149 Thank you, this was very helpful. I have been only trying this particular model, so I think I will try going in store for a proper fitting.

Edit: forgot to mention that this model is the Cavanaugh, which is the 114 Last according to this guide ("the last is fuller across the ball of the foot ")

 

[Casaubon]

The issue has been explained here in detail, and it apparently has to do with the shape of the feet:

Understanding The Fit of a Shoe

I had a good question from a reader not too long ago and it was all about fit and how big the gap should be between your shoe laces on the facing. I like

theshoesnobblog.com

I have the same problem so I was also looking for an explanation at one point. Perhaps there is a solution to this, I am far from an authority on the issue, but personally I have almost given up on loafers. Not that much of a problem since I am more of a boot guy myself.