Split Toe Derby

[aj2603]

Great list aj - thanks for putting this together. I think I fall into a common thread here regarding this style. When I first started building my shoe collection I wasn't a fan, but the more I learn the more I appreciate its versatility and lines

I enjoy the Zonkey's. I acquired mine through a GMTO organized by @Burzan and have really fallen in love with the leather on these. The creasing is fantastic and the slightly contrasting stitching on the apron (lighter than the leather) really adds some visual interest.

On the leather - while they may call it Russian Reindeer it is not. It's Horween's hatch grain calf.

Thanks and good to know about the leather

 

[aj2603]

@aj2603 thanks for making the overview of available split toes. Some are nicer than others, some simply seem to be on the wrong last (though that is a matter of taste), and some are secretly put on the wish list.

Yanko also seems to have several split toe derby's in its collection on the 915 and 960 last. No experience with them -- 915 looks more elegant in my opinion.

it is a good alternative.. the price point is good. But i am not a fan of the last.. but thats just me..

I dont like the proportion of the vamp & the toe. But thats just me

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Fantastic list AJ. The fact you have illustrated each of your choices with visual representations demonstrates the research you have done.

Are you in the procurement process, or just showing the various available split--toes?
If it is the former, Zonkey Boot, SC, Hiro Yanagimachi are not really RTW since you have to wait a minimum of 6 weeks.

If it is the latter, thanks again for such beautiful examples of a very versatile shoe!

As for another example, Stefano Bemer makes a beautiful split toe. Unfortunately, you would have to wait several weeks since it is not RTW. They make everything by hand, including the apron. Whilst the picture shows a shorter apron, they easily can produce a shoe reminiscent of the Dover. Fortunately, the shoe would be hand-welted and hand-lasted unlike the Dover. Speaking of quality finishing and leather, tough to find something better at their price point (similarly priced to SC).

 

[aj2603]

I am not in the process or procurement. As of now I have 15+ dress shoes and I realised none of them r a black and dark brown plain cap to Oxford.

With a little bit of maturity and experience, I have realized they should be next on my buying list.

So a split toe is number 3 on my list after I get those 2.

TBH, I wanna get the EG Dovers. I am saving up money for those.

I don’t mind waiting. I really don’t mind waiting for MTO. It’s not like there is an urgency for any of these things.

Currently I am waiting for my Sagara boots which I commissioned in June and will be ready in September. So time is not an issue for quality

I am just doing my research. As i do for most of my shoes/ boots and when I saw this thread. I though of sharing and getting some feedback/ opinions in the process

 

[dieworkwear]

Some great options listed here. Personally love the Dover the most, although the StCs are a close second for that kind of shape.

IMO, split toes look best when they have a handsewn apron. Machine sewn ones can look a bit taxidermic, especially at that split-toe seam.

The unicorn, for me, is one with a rounder shape. Lots of great ones on the previous list, but they're all a bit sleek. Which probably makes up most of the split toes in my closet because that's what's on the market. But I also like a rounder toe cause it feels more in keeping with the casual and (originally) workwear style. Also easier to wear with jeans.

I have two pairs from Nicholas Templeman. First is sleek; second is a little more like JM Weston's Chasse, another split toe. But this one, I think, is a little easier to wear than the Weston. Paraboot Avignon is a good alternative for the stubbier version, if someone is looking for a semi-affordable RTW.

 

[aj2603]

I agree with u 100% that a hand sewn apron looks much better than a machine sewn.

Those are some beautiful shoes. but i am personally more inclined towards the more chiseled lasts.

 

[dieworkwear]

Have a pair of chiseled split toes currently being made by Cleverley. Made from buckskin suede.

 

[aj2603]

Have a pair of chiseled split toes currently being made by Cleverley. Made from buckskin suede.

WOW... I really like the Cleverley last

I have just started my shoe collection .. One day hopefully i'll get there

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

AJ that is an intelligent move to be selective. This way you minimize impulsive purchases.

My suggestion is do not even bother looking elsewhere. You sound pretty definitive with the Dover. You honestly will not find a better last than theirs. It is distinctive. In addition to their top quality leather. I believe the build quality of SC or Stefano Bemer marginally beats EG for the price however.

Having said that, the Dovers will last a lifetime, the hand-sewn apron looks fantastic, and the aforementioned last is incomparable. Buy what you like. Hell I did when I purchased my Dark Oak Dovers ones haha.

Be careful though. Once you embark along this path of high end shoes, your bank account will hate you forever! I am 64 shoes deep in this abusive behavior.
You have been Forewarned!

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

One last thing. Hopefully you paid attention to Dieworkwears' comments. Two Templemans (in different shapes), Cleverley, and I know he has more shoes.

Like I said, abusive behavior. Haha.

 

[aj2603]

AJ that is an intelligent move to be selective. This way you minimize impulsive purchases.

My suggestion is do not even bother looking elsewhere. You sound pretty definitive with the Dover. You honestly will not find a better last than theirs. It is distinctive. In addition to their top quality leather. I believe the build quality of SC or Stefano Bemer marginally beats EG for the price however.

Having said that, the Dovers will last a lifetime, the hand-sewn apron looks fantastic, and the aforementioned last is incomparable. Buy what you like. Hell I did when I purchased my Dark Oak Dovers ones haha.

Be careful though. Once you embark along this path of high end shoes, your bank account will hate you forever! I am 64 shoes deep in this abusive behavior.
You have been Forewarned!

Thanks for the advice.. TBH, I am kind of obsessed with a split toe right now.. Maybe because it is the only style i have never owned in my life.

My Bank account already hates me

I agree with u that SC are better Built.. But in my mind i have a picture that i might buy 3 split toes in the next 5 years. 2 of them r EG and SC for sure. My heart is still not set on the 3rd one.

PS: I try to be inteligent and selective. But when i see a shoe i like, logic and inteligence does not count for anything

 

[aj2603]

One last thing. Hopefully you paid attention to Dieworkwears' comments. Two Templemans (in different shapes), Cleverley, and I know he has more shoes.

Like I said, abusive behavior. Haha.

Yes... I consider myself as a newbie in this word. Dieworkwears is the Headmaster of this realm.

I am still on RTW.. Bespoke is still some years away for me.

 

[aj2603]

PS: This did look familiar

 

[dieworkwear]

when i wear norwegian split-toes:

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thundermarch may surpass DieWW.. Regardless they are in the executive board of shoes.

Pick up those Dovers, and cross the proverbial shoe bridge when it comes.
Whilst I am proponent for Hand Welted hand last etc etc., a good year welt is still a great build. Hence, the Dover is a fantastic buy. As a proud owner of Doak Dovers, I would steer you towards that color.

If you do decide to buy pairs thereafter, DieWW brings up a talking point about a chiseled toe. They have inherently dressy traits. Consequently, they become less versatile. A round toe is extremely versatile, while an almond toe is mildy more sleek.
I have a pair of Y. Fukudas which look extremely sleek and chiseled, however when I wear them with odd trousers my wife claims I look like a ballerina haha. So be mindful of balance lines with either your body and clothing.