Skoaktiebolaget – Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, Löf & Tung

[KPDarb]

Many manufacturers are limiting their retailers in order to sell more directly to consumers. Independent retailers are under pressure because of this. Honestly, limitations in MTOs and GMTOs is something that has become more and more bothersome. It stared with Edward Green and has spread to G&G and others. Skoaktiebolaget was a very early adopter and advocate of the GMTO concept (I think we might have actually coined the phrase) so it is a paradox to say the least. I understand why manufacturers wants to sell directly to consumers but I wish they would also understand the need for good retailers. I believe there is an important symbiosis between manufacturer and retailers, even in this day and age of e-commerce, where access to consumers might seem much easier than before. But there is a limit to how far the (independent) manufacturers can reach without good retailers. Unless they are backed by a fashion conglomerate, upon which they will of course not be independent anymore.

I really appreciate this explanation and insight in the dynamic of the industry. Its a shame for makers to almost indirectly remove that face that is the independent retailer. From my experience, both first hand and witnessed, makers don't seem to have the ability to offer the same customer experience as a retailer. I really enjoy the GMTOs and hope only for a bright, group order filled future.

 

[Zapasman]

I wear standards width CS 316 (don't know if there even is a wide width) find it as wide as AE 65 last in E width if this helps. CS size 9, AE size 10

Hi sdfz, could you say is a TTS last?. Roomy enough in the instep and ball?. I am asking you that cause I am 8.5uk (mostly)-9 uk (depending on the last) and I am considering to pull the trigger with the Balmoral boot. TIA

 

[Zapasman]

Any pics in the wild of the CS Noir Shadow patina, please?. That Balmoral boot on thel 316 last resembles me to the GG Canterburys, wich is the best lovely Balmoral boot IMO.

 

[Dannefalk]

Do these have hidden eyelets as in the picture or visible eyelets as in the description when following the provided link?

Eyelets are hidden, as the picture! Description has been corrected.

 

[sdfzs]

Hi sdfz, could you say is a TTS last?. Roomy enough in the instep and ball?. I am asking you that cause I am 8.5uk (mostly)-9 uk (depending on the last) and I am considering to pull the trigger with the Balmoral boot. TIA

For me 316 is acctually roomy but not to the extent that I'm sizing down. I wear my normal carmina Detroit / Soller size for a fit allowing medium thickness socks. I would say that the width is about as per the mentioned carmina lasts. Only got derby boots so I can't comment in instep height but my impression is not that it's in the lower side.

As always, all feets are different....

 

[Zapasman]

^Thanks for your helpful reply.

 

[KPDarb]

I find 316 pretty TTS. A bit slimmer/narrower than CJ 325 but not enough to warrant a difference in size between the two.

 

[cypi2]

Hi sdfz, could you say is a TTS last?. Roomy enough in the instep and ball?. I am asking you that cause I am 8.5uk (mostly)-9 uk (depending on the last) and I am considering to pull the trigger with the Balmoral boot. TIA

I have a Carlos Santos field boot (derby as opposed to oxford).
I took it in the same size (UK 11) some EG derby boots on the 202 or the 82 (standard width) and as a Carmina oxford boot on the Detroit last (standard width as well).
Overall, I find the Carlos Santos 316 to be true to size and rather roomy at the ball of the foot:
It feels very slightly tighter than the Carmina Detroit, slightly roomier than the EG 82 and very close to the EG 202 (perhaps very very slightly roomier).
I am also thinking about purchasing this Carlos Santos balmoral boot, and, I will go with the same size as I went with the field boot (UK 11). I think this will work fine despite the fact that I have a high instep which often forces me to go 1/2 size higher or 'wide width' with oxfords.

 

[Leaves]

@Leaves

For the black seamless wholecut intero 771, is this weinheimer black calf or is it the regular vitello black calf?

We only use Weinheimer for our black shoes.

 

[Zapasman]

I have a Carlos Santos field boot (derby as opposed to oxford).
I took it in the same size (UK 11) some EG derby boots on the 202 or the 82 (standard width) and as a Carmina oxford boot on the Detroit last (standard width as well).
Overall, I find the Carlos Santos 316 to be true to size and rather roomy at the ball of the foot:
It feels very slightly tighter than the Carmina Detroit, slightly roomier than the EG 82 and very close to the EG 202 (perhaps very very slightly roomier).
I am also thinking about purchasing this Carlos Santos balmoral boot, and, I will go with the same size as I went with the field boot (UK 11). I think this will work fine despite the fact that I have a high instep which often forces me to go 1/2 size higher or 'wide width' with oxfords.

Thanks @KPDarb and @cypi2 for your fitting inputs. Now I would like to see that Noir Shadow patina and some Balmos on that last in the wild. Hopefully before the end of the next coming month.

 

[Leaves]

Can we do the JL Ilford on 8695 Last in the Pebble Gray Color (Pewter)?

Sorry, but this style is discontinued.

 

[Leaves]

I could not agree more with @CanadaCal and @Beav:
The monthly GMTOs give 'bigger-footed' people (UK 11 and above) more opportunities to purchase shoes at RTW prices which is great.

And, I wonder if I am the only person who'd welcome some handwelted Paolo Scafora GMTOs?...

For example, would there be any interest in the Paolo Scafora Pompei in Rubino calf?

That is, this austerity brogue:

View attachment 820050

In this leather:

View attachment 820051

We'd love to do some Scafora GMTOs soon, as there are now quite a lot of our clients who actually owns a pair and can order MTOs and GMTOs without the risk of ending up with the wrong size. And client organised GMTOs used to be a big thing, and I will always support those runs! Nudge nudge.

 

[Leaves]

Huh? So because i chose this moment to speak my mind and talk frankly you think i lack impulse control? Reality check, this is shoes not faces of real people i am judging. I repeat, it is shoes!

You call me a word you have to censor because i call the boot an abomination; and dare talking about impulse control, there is something about rocks and glass houses that comes to mind..



I agree that it lacks some kind of home, that it ventures into exotic without going all the way and i reckon that is my problem with it. I am certain that it requires a high degree of technical skill to perform this boot, but design wise i cannot help but think that it is going in various directions and i think the end result is confusing.

It's not more difficult to make compared to any other two tone Balmoral boot. I can't see the issue with the design, personally I really like it. But that's just me. The design is based off of a GMTO Button Boot that we have made several runs of. And we had it as a stock shoe as well.

 

[Leaves]

Do these have hidden eyelets as in the picture or visible eyelets as in the description when following the provided link?

Hidden eyelets and four pairs of speed hooks.

 

[Leaves]

@Leaves is the price increase on the GMTO wholecut because it's seamless? It seems like a substantial upcharge, but it's a beautiful shoe. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the premium.

Yes, technically it's very difficult. So there's an upgrade.