Shoulders cut

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lestat, Aug 6, 2004.

  1. lestat

    lestat Member

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    Hi all,
    congratulations for the forum and the contributions, precious to someone new to the field like me.
    Probably thanks to age, I am switching more and more from a casual clothing style to a more formal one, in which I am a total novice.
    My problem is that I have very broad, extremely straight shoulders and a muscular breast (I am 180 cm 80 kg): it could sound ok, but reality is that, in most suits, I end up looking more or less like a packet of cigarette.
    Can any of you advice any tailor/brand whose suit could fit a body type like mine, especially concerning the shoulders area? I am especially interested in italian ones, since I have occasion to travel frequently there.
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Ebay seller world*class*consignment may have some St. Andrews suits left in your size (maybe not). Anyways, that cut is apparently a virtually padless shoulder, so it won't make you look like a box.
     
  3. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for the plug, johnnynorman3 [​IMG] The unpadded shoulder is the right idea, but those St. Andrew's won't have nearly enough waist suppression for him. It's a tough one - you are going to have trouble with shoulder padding, or shoulder width, or drop, or possibly all three. Going to Italy is a good idea - the suits will be cut a lot slimmer there, and you will primarily have to worry about shoulder width...
     
  4. TomW

    TomW Senior member

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    Lestat,

    I sympathize with your predicament. I suffer very nearly the same issue - to a slightly lesser degree - I wear a size 43 jacket (roughly 45-46" at the chest) share your broad and fairly flat shoulders along with a 33" waist. Finding RTW suits which fit is difficult - the best for my particular situation have been Zegna and Vestimenta with minor alteration, and a few others with more extensive work. The only perfect solution for me has been Made to Measure or bespoke - both of which are rather a bit more expensive. The absolutely worst thing is a traditional American Sack suit - much too much excess fabric under the arm, the waist and hip.
     
  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Yes, I was wondering about the waist suppression as well. What about taking in the suit an inch or two at the waist. Really what I was thinking though is that too severe of a waist suppression may give to much of a V look for his taste, and that the real culprit in the "cigarette box" look was not the lack of waist supression, but rather a too squared shoulder. Additionally, I think it will be very important to get a fully canvassed suit -- IMO a fused suit's biggest problem is that it looks and drapes boxy due to the stiffness. And, Andrew, your goods plug themselves.
     
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Get an Armani suit - everyone else on the board slags him, but his soft shouldered, crepe suits are perfect for a big guy. The use of crepe, in particular, softens all those sharp angles. Vestimenta uses a lot of the same crepe for their house brand suits, which is probably why they work well for TomW. This may not be intuitive, but get a suit with moderate rather than severe waist suppression (English style.) The former will flatter your athletic shape. The latter may may you look like a cartoon character.

    BTW, purportedly, all of the governator's suits are Armani, and he cleans up pretty well - and he used to be Mr. Universe.
     
  7. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    LA Guy, where did you hear that? I've read articles that say his suits come from a tailor in BH--I forget which one. At any rate, he would not likely fit any mainstream RTW (maybe even MTM depending on the pattern base), so I would have thought custom to be much more likely.
     
  8. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is true. Perhaps I should clarify. What usually happens is that very fit guys with big shoulders end up buying a suit that is a size or two large, because the shoulders are too narrow on the smaller sizes. Not a good look. I suppose I'm really not helping here though, am I. Lestat knows this already...
     
  9. lestat

    lestat Member

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    Thank you all for your advices.
    I´ll give a try to Armani, hoping to find a good tailor to make some modifications. However, I´ve read that most Armani on eBay are fakes. How true is that?
     
  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Well, you'll have to wade through the blatant fakes, and then you'll have to wade through the items misrepresented as Giorgio Armani (the Mani diffusion line is a very popular item to sell on eBay as an Armani.)
     

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