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Shoulder shape/width

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by itsstillmatt, Jun 10, 2007.

  1. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    What sort of shoulder fit do the members here prefer. I personally prefer a very soft shoulder with a touch of extension that produces a sort of dropped shoulder look. What do you guys like?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    No padding, no wadding, no extension for me. I can live with wadding, if necessary or if the tailor is just a stubborn old cuss, but I hate padding. I prefer the drape effect with no extension. Not that I don't see the virtues of extension, but it doesn't work for me. I'm hardly built like a truck, but my shoulders are wide enough with respect to the rest of my telephone pole body that extention ends up looking really contrived on me.
     


  3. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Not sure what you mean by "a bit of drop." Do you mean that there is a pretty clear indication where your own shoulder ends, with the jacket shoulder sort of extending beyond that, but dropping down a little at that point?
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Tight to the shoulder, sweater-like.
     


  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tight, tight, tight. I want the shoulder to end at my shoulder. Nothing looks worse than a saggy padded shoulder that shows where the wearer's real shoulder ends. So phony, so aesthetically displeasing. Makes me shudder. Brrr.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Nothing looks worse than a saggy padded shoulder that shows where the wearer's real shoulder ends.

    Generally speaking, padded extended shoulders don't sag. That said, I still don't like the way they look. I do however like saggy unpadded, a la A&S or Rubinacci, just not on me.
     


  7. TheHoff

    TheHoff Senior member

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    If one has bulky natural shoulders and has the padding removed from a say, Canali or Brioni, will the jacket also look longer because it is sitting further down on the torso?
     


  8. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Generally speaking, padded extended shoulders don't sag. That said, I still don't like the way they look. I do however like saggy unpadded, a la A&S or Rubinacci, just not on me.

    Oh but they can, and boy, do they look awful. I think you're thinking of well-done examples, but many older OTR jackets manage exactly this look. I see it all the time on the street -- sometimes it's because the shoulder is way too large, sometimes it's because the jacket is ill-sized, sometimes it's because the wearer has abused his poor coat, sometimes it's just time taking its toll. I noticed a fellow on the subway yesterday wearing an extended shoulder that he would crush whenever he leaned his shoulder against the wall/door, which he did frequently. Looked like a mountain range. A saggy, ghastly mountain range. Of awfulness.

    (Also, my use of "padded" was to distinguish this unfortunate, unintended look from the A&S style you mention. Personally, I don't like that either, but different strokes for different folks.)
     


  9. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Another useful contribution from the king of emoticons.

    Here's a pic for you. No padding, wadding at the sleevehead, no extension, moderate drape:

    [​IMG]
     


  11. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
     


  12. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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  13. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    This is what I would consider soft with a touch of extension: [​IMG] also this, [​IMG]
     


  14. macuser3of5

    macuser3of5 Senior member

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    Pretty much in between edmorel and drizzt3117; with little padding.
     


  15. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I can't look at that pic with that tie so damn askew.
     


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