Sam Disano vs Adamo Marrone vs Victor Alacqua

[Chris - NZ]

I will be commissioning my first bespoke suit in Sydney and was wondering if you can kindly comment/provide opinions and personal experience with above tailors. The thread will hopefully build on what has been previously discussed.

All three were more than happy to have a chat over the phone to explain how it will work but unfortunately that is the extent of my comparative data with the exception of previous threads. Below is a summary of information regarding each tailor:

Sam Disano
By far the most affordable but I will have to plead/beg to ensure good amount of waist suppression and high armholes
Not a lot of flexibility if one want deviate from his "˜house style' - structured
Machine made (is machine vs hand made debate reserve for the purist?)
Need to provide own buttons
Discovered by Sator and has the ability to produce great suits provided one has extensive knowledge on how to do so. An inexperienced customer like myself may not fair as well.

Adamo Marrone
Highly rated by forumites
Shoulder padding is softer
Involves plenty of hand work

Victor Alacqua
Claimed to have the most hand work of the three
He said that he only uses "˜Optima' canvas and Horn buttons
Cost is $3,500 and a further $500 for an extra pair of trousers - fabric not included

According to Sam, I will need around 6m of fabric with an extra pair of trousers (I'll be providing fabric to save time given that I'll only be there for a week). But previous threads have indicated that 5.5m is plenty for a similar build (6"1, average build, light pin stripe fabric)

Originally Posted by Despos

Talk with your suit maker to be sure.
In yards you want 3 3/4 for a suit, 2 1/4 for jacket 1 3/4 to 2 yards for a trouser. In meters a bit less.
Better to have a bit more than too little cloth. Especially if you must cut the suit one way.
A tailor will use less cloth, a CTM house will require more cloth to be safe.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chris - NZ]

Anybody?

 

[Sator]

Adamo also uses top quality body and chest canvas, and horn buttons. Trust me, I know, since I help him to source the stuff. I brought some of the canvas (he uses different body canvas depending on the cloth) he has is in at the moment for him. Optima is just a term that some local Italian tailors use for wool-hair body canvas. Americans tend to call it hymo, I think. Whatever you call it, it's just wool-hair body canvas.