Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[Bling]

Thanks GG Allin, that's very helpful.

Something about the Wyatt grabs me. I think it might be the more aggressive taper in the first photo. I think I prefer the buckle on it as well. Still not 100% sure. Unfortunately the Terry is not in stores in Canada; I will be trying on the Wyatt.

 

[Bling]

Interestingly, the Terry's are featured heavily in the Fall RTW look book. The Wyatt, not at all.

FALL WINTER 22 LOOKS | Saint Laurent | YSL

Discover FALL WINTER 22 LOOKS from the collection by Saint Laurent. Shop the official online store | YSL.com.

www.ysl.com

 

[GG Allin]

Interestingly, the Terry's are featured heavily in the Fall RTW look book. The Wyatt, not at all.

FALL WINTER 22 LOOKS | Saint Laurent | YSL

Discover FALL WINTER 22 LOOKS from the collection by Saint Laurent. Shop the official online store | YSL.com.

www.ysl.com

I'm gonna get flamed for this, but I kinda feel like Vacc is starting to hit his stride with his menswear (at least relative to Hedi at Celine). Even when a particular look is not for me, I think that it achieves an elegance and style that is sorely missing from post-dancing kid Celine. The one exception is that Venetian collection that literally made me nauseous.

Pierre Clementi, the late French actor and avant garde filmmaker, who's role in Belle de jour was supposedly the main inspiration for the latest collection, was cool as ****. I've been checking out some of his roles recently, was actually watching Le pont de Nord last night which I'd never seen before. I have this weird obsession with coolness, which is obviously really subjective--but I don't think Hedi's latest collections are hitting their target in this regard. To me, it seems like he's drifting more into the geeky vibe that the latest Gucci does so well.

 

[SirGrotius]

That's a great insight and boils down things very simply. SLP's latest offerings suggest and elegant cool to me and are still quite wearable, Celine's a little more hit and miss and verges on the nerdy side with most of its pieces, although a confident nerd if that makes sense.

 

[shoegazesummer]

I'm gonna get flamed for this, but I kinda feel like Vacc is starting to hit his stride with his menswear (at least relative to Hedi at Celine). Even when a particular look is not for me, I think that it achieves an elegance and style that is sorely missing from post-dancing kid Celine. The one exception is that Venetian collection that literally made me nauseous.

The Venetian collection, SS22, felt like it borrowed some ideas from Celine's Teen Knight Poem (frilled collars, the gothic romantic vampire look) and injected it with more femininity. Where TKP was still very much so influenced by men for menswear (Kurt Cobain, the grunge scene, etc), Saint Laurent SS22 felt like they wanted to do something similar but wanted to diffrientiate it by going in the opposite direction. And they achieved that by having a lot of lace, waistcoats, a return to very skinny looks when menswear as a whole has trended wider.

I actually do like SS22 (even if some looks were way too feminine for me personally), but it still felt like a collection in Hedi's shadow because of the TKP comparisons. For Saint Laurent FW22 and SS23, on the other hand, I agree with you that Vaccarello finally hits his own stride without seemingly needing to rehash Hedi SLP or feel the need to compete with him at Celine as a 1-1 competitor. Especially with the recent Celine collections deviating from what Saint Laurent's image and brand stands for, making it more obvious Saint Laurent should do its own thing instead of trying to compete with Hedi directly. But I also think SS22 was a base for that to begin with, where Vaccarello was able to make a bolder claim that he can utilize femininity and elegance to make his mark compared to Hedi using various male music idols as his.

 

[micheyll]

The more I look at this Playboy sweater, the more I adore it. I'm just not sure how wearable something with a Playboy logo really is. But it just looks so damn good.

 

[SirGrotius]

Perfectly stated shoegaze. They each have their own creative spaces now, as the initial Vacc SLP seasons were so derivative I assumed that leftover members of Hedi's team were doing the work. I do find some of the over the top feminine pieces from Vacc's collections a touch distracting, but I understand how it works within his œuvre.

Have to agree Micheyll. At first, I ignored it and thought it was a bit passé if anything, but the more I see the cut, the fabric, and especially the styling there I know it'd look great. Definitely something you could realistically wear, what 2-4 times a year at most unless you're just the playboy sweater dude.

 

[RedVelvetWounds]

The more I look at this Playboy sweater, the more I adore it. I'm just not sure how wearable something with a Playboy logo really is. But it just looks so damn good.

I feel that. When I first saw it I said something along the lines of "If you're making a rock and roll mohair sweater you might as well go all out." And I think they've done that here.

Definitely something you could realistically wear, what 2-4 times a year at most unless you're just the playboy sweater dude.

Same dude as the Playboy zippo dude.

 

[Bling]

The Venetian collection, SS22, felt like it borrowed some ideas from Celine's Teen Knight Poem (frilled collars, the gothic romantic vampire look) and injected it with more femininity. Where TKP was still very much so influenced by men for menswear (Kurt Cobain, the grunge scene, etc), Saint Laurent SS22 felt like they wanted to do something similar but wanted to diffrientiate it by going in the opposite direction. And they achieved that by having a lot of lace, waistcoats, a return to very skinny looks when menswear as a whole has trended wider.

I actually do like SS22 (even if some looks were way too feminine for me personally), but it still felt like a collection in Hedi's shadow because of the TKP comparisons. For Saint Laurent FW22 and SS23, on the other hand, I agree with you that Vaccarello finally hits his own stride without seemingly needing to rehash Hedi SLP or feel the need to compete with him at Celine as a 1-1 competitor. Especially with the recent Celine collections deviating from what Saint Laurent's image and brand stands for, making it more obvious Saint Laurent should do its own thing instead of trying to compete with Hedi directly. But I also think SS22 was a base for that to begin with, where Vaccarello was able to make a bolder claim that he can utilize femininity and elegance to make his mark compared to Hedi using various male music idols as his.

I actually love this about the fall season SLP. It makes the look even more distinctive and radical vis a vis the rest of what's out there. The slightly feminine slant is also countering current trends and is, as mentioned above, distinct from Slimane.

Micheyll - love the sweater, in fact I love that whole outfit. Contrasting silhouette with a slightly larger (but tastefully so) sweater, and skinny leather pants. Also contrast with the comfortable looking knit and the rock star pants. Very cool.

Personally, I prefer the playboy print to the other sweater in this year's collection with Saint Laurent on it. More subtle, and in 2022 the PB logo has taken on a kind of irony that I appreciate.

 

[Bling]

Update: went with the Wyatt Chelsea in smooth black leather. Had to go down a half size; unfortunately they didn't have the jodhpur in my size, but I fell in love with the Chelsea after trying it on. Much more comfortable than I was expecting.

I was surprised to see that the Toronto boutique I visited had none of the men's fall 2022 pieces, though they said they were getting it soon.

Also grabbed a pair of D2s; I'd been eying them for a while and finally pulled the trigger.

Made the mistake of trying on an off-white Teddy...man those things *feel* incredible. I don't know if it's placebo or the real thing, but all SLP pieces that I have tried feel so, so good.

 

[SirGrotius]

Good call Bling - there's often a "ahh" factor to the Saint Laurent pieces, especially outerwear, knitwear, well almost everything IME. They're often lined with premium quality fabrics, e.g., the teddy I own is a substantial wool with buttery leather detailing, robust snap buttons with a pleasing sheen, a perfect slim fit, and a delicate, luscious silk lining, not to gush hyperbolic about it.

 

[SirGrotius]

With fall settling in, a classic moto jacket tempts me. I’m debating between the SLP “plunged lambskin” version or the Celine. The SLP looks clean, but a touch less interesting. Celine seems a bit more aggressive. What does plunged mean exactly in this case?

SLP

Celine

 

[Simon Dykes]

I have the L01, but think I prefer the Celine here. Also looks like the celine has more usable pockets for actually putting your hands in, which is somehting I find a bit annoying about the SLP. Possibly a consideration with cool weather coming.

I think plunged refers to the tanning / dying process, not sure on specifics exactly but I'm guessing it's a desirable characteristic

 

[Nyarlathotep]

A typo of 'plonge´?

 

[GG Allin]

I've decided I'm going to buy a double rider too, and am going to get an l01. If you look on gr@iled, the usual people who proxy out of outlets are posting new ones in both the calf and the plonged lamb, for a decent discount. You obviously can't return them, although I've heard about one particular seller being willing to accept them.

Anyway, I only mention this because it seems to show that the classic l01 is in the outlets, so if you're near one Grotius you may want to swing by and see what you think.

I know everyone raves about the original ss13 one, for having a really slim cut to it, as well as superior leather quality--but I think I"m going to get one of Vacc's recent productions because I don't need a super slim cut and the leather quality on the new ones is probably going to be good engouh for me anyway.