S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

A new development, the field shirt, arrived at the start of the week.

It is an overshirt, or an unlined jacket with a shirt-style collar, or a heavy shirt with the trappings of outerwear.

It has a whole-cut upper body, much like the donkey jacket from last year. The sleeve and front and back chest, and shoulder in between, are all one piece (one piece for each side). It wears much like a one-piece raglan sleeve, with a very soft, natural drape over the shoulder. And plenty roomy, too. A tricky sleeve to pitch.

We've used two types of linen from the same mill, which have a tonal affinity. My favourite of the two is the lower, which is a heavy burlap linen, which was originally woven as sackcloth, but is now rather more refined (plus washed, to soften it up). Full of character and slub and one of the closest things we have to a tweed-like texture in warmer months.

The dark green has almost sold out, unexpectedly (I blame Instagram) -- and we hope to make a few more, cloth permitting. Maybe even the navy one, too.

Paul

 

[nsubrmnn]

I’m going to be in London, but only during the week. Is the shop only open on the weekends?

 

[sehkelly]

I’m going to be in London, but only during the week. Is the shop only open on the weekends?

Afraid so, yes. Hardly convenient, I know.

In the week I spend most of my time at one factory or another, overseeing production or otherwise pulling my hair out.

Having said that, I do sometimes come and go at the workshop, during the week, so it never hurts closer to the time.

 

[sehkelly]

More linen -- this time mixed with an equal amount of silk, then washed and tumbled for hours on end, until it boasts a pyjama-like bobbliness to go with the haphazard knots and slubs in the yarn.

We used this cloth -- woven on the south coast of Ireland -- for a summer version of the SB2.

It's our most long tailored-type jacket, which is to say, it is about the same length as a standard suit jacket. In all other respects it is resolutely casual, unstructured; which is quite a nice pairing with the cloth, which invites a certain amount of rough and tumble.

We had a good reaction to this on Instagram, and have decided to take the plunge -- after first feeling a little apprehensive because of the relative brightness of the material -- with a few pairs of matching trousers, too. They'll arrive next week.

Paul

 

[clee1982]

Side vents?

 

[sehkelly]

Side vents?

Yep.

 

[mistersparkle]

Paul, did you secretly drop a hooded parka? https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats/parka/

It looks superb and probably the closest thing we'll get to a fishtail (still looking for the perfect one). I love the high collar and the generous pockets.



May you please delve into the fabric more? How's the water resistance compared to Ventile? Is there any DWR that will wear off in years time?

Thank you!

 

[paddymac]

For such a small company, we made a disproportionately large number of woollen coats towards the end of last year ...

... and so this year, we've resolved to make even more .

To this end, we have just finished pattern development on the tielocken, which is a style I think I've mentioned at least once here already.

View attachment 926802 View attachment 926803 View attachment 926804 View attachment 926805

It is a sort of topcoat / trench hybrid, with instead of buttons, a fairly elaborate belt system, which is fixed at the side-seams.

That's only half the story, of course. It has an unusual type of sleeve and some interesting (I hope) pockets.

This is just the toile, and only has half a collar, and the cloth is just what we had to hand.

However, it does give a good idea of how the finishing thing will look -- changes permitting -- when it turns up this autumn.

Paul

Hi Paul,

What colours are you planning for this....

 

[Savage113]

More linen -- this time mixed with an equal amount of silk, then washed and tumbled for hours on end, until it boasts a pyjama-like bobbliness to go with the haphazard knots and slubs in the yarn.

We used this cloth -- woven on the south coast of Ireland -- for a summer version of the SB2.

View attachment 936861 View attachment 936862 View attachment 936864 View attachment 936865

It's our most long tailored-type jacket, which is to say, it is about the same length as a standard suit jacket. In all other respects it is resolutely casual, unstructured; which is quite a nice pairing with the cloth, which invites a certain amount of rough and tumble.

We had a good reaction to this on Instagram, and have decided to take the plunge -- after first feeling a little apprehensive because of the relative brightness of the material -- with a few pairs of matching trousers, too. They'll arrive next week.

Paul

Coming from the antipodes I think the “brighter” colour is bang on. Perhaps you should consider using these tones more if it proves popular (not yet an owner of your brand but looking forward to doing so)

 

[sehkelly]

Paul, did you secretly drop a hooded parka? https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats/parka/

May you please delve into the fabric more? How's the water resistance compared to Ventile? Is there any DWR that will wear off in years time?

Thank you!

The cloth is a synthetic (of poly and meta-aramid fibres, so I am told).

It is as such inherently waterproof, and can be boil-washed and still retain full efficacy (if that is the right term) in that regard.

It is very light, has a soft and matte handle — an appearance very much like cotton — and is superbly breathable. When you wear a one-piece sleeve coat made from it, say, you can barely feel it on your back, and even on a humid underground train it allows you to feel crisp and dry. But as soon as the rain comes, no matter how much or for how long, you will be bone-dry underneath. It is rather overqualified for civvy street.

It is also the bane of the factory since in a short space of time it blunts scissors and needles. Very strong fibres.

Compared to Ventile, I would say the words lighter, stronger, durable, and weatherproof-er. Hardly a far playing field, I must point out, as this is (a) synthetic and (b) more expensive per metre than our beloved Ventile.

Very much a case of low-tech vs. high — some will be reassured by the honesty of the former, and others excited by the latter. (I am both.)

 

[JackL2]

Any chance we can see a shot of the tielocken in development from the front? Looks great!

 

[sehkelly]

Any chance we can see a shot of the tielocken in development from the front? Looks great!

Here's one.

Sorry — a bit arty.

We are making the tielocken right now, as it happens. The first run. A few of our regulars enquired about it, having seen the development photographs — and agreeing to take the plunge based almost solely on them, and the fact the topcoat is a close relative — and so we're doing a short run of them this week in a grey Donegal box-tweed.

 

[paddymac]

is the grey donegal box tweed the same as- https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats/topcoat/topcoat-in-hand-woven-merino-tweed-in-granite/
?

 

[sehkelly]

is the grey donegal box tweed the same as- https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats/topcoat/topcoat-in-hand-woven-merino-tweed-in-granite/
?

No sir — but not far off.

Not quite so thick, bobbly, and a little darker in colour.

EDIT — here, this is the one: https://www.sehkelly.com/words/2013/10/return-tetris-tweed/.

 

[paddymac]

Is the grey Donegal box Tweed

No sir — but not far off.

Not quite so thick, bobbly, and a little darker in colour.

EDIT — here, this is the one: https://www.sehkelly.com/words/2013/10/return-tetris-tweed/.

So is this 100% wool because you mentioned the topcoat is a cotton wool mix tweed.

What other colours apart from grey are you planning to make? I'd be interested to be put on the waiting list if you have one