Oxxford 1220 vs. RLBL: which to buy?

[usctrojans31]

Ahoy all,

I have since decided to buy myself two new suits over the next several weeks and have decided on RLBL or Oxxford 1220, in the requisite navy and charcoal. I have since outgrown all of my existing suits, which were all sent to goodwill.

About me: I am 6'4" and fluctuate between 175 and 180 pounds with a slim/average build.

I prefer the silhouette of the RLBL better and the only alteration required is hemming the pants. Conversely, I prefer the fabric and construction of the 1220, but need to get a fair amount of suppression added into the coat.

Which route would you recommend that I go?

 

[ryoneo]

Well, how much are you going to spend? Retail?

 

[Quadcammer]

RLBL for me. Oxxford's cut is not for me, and probably not for your either base don your measurements. With enough waist suppression, it might look ok, but I think a nicer cut from the beginning would be better.

 

[Superfluous]

Out of curiosity, what size RLBL do you need?

 

[usctrojans31]

Price is less of an issue; I have free money coming to me and decided to utilize it. Ralph Lauren tends to do their 40+15 later on in the season, which I can conceivably wait for as I will be in Milan for the next 4 months.

Quad - the 1220 is a slimmer cut than the traditional Oxxford Type A and Type B. I realize that I haven't seen legit measurements of the BOC of it. When I saw them this weekend, the store only had 40R, so I extrapolated. RLBL is one of the few brands that has a BOC of 32" in a 40L, which I absolutely need. Most tend to sick with a 31" or a 31.5" which is simply not long enough.

I think just typing that up answered my own question, which was my initial plan to go RLBL. I was seduced by the 1220's that I saw on sale recently and just loved the details, fabric, and construction.

 

[Quadcammer]

You're right, the 1220 is a bit slimmer, but I'll admit I still preferred the typical RLBL cut. Fits my body type better.

 

[usctrojans31]



Out of curiosity, what size RLBL do you need?

I wear a 40L in it.

 

[ryoneo]



Price is less of an issue; I have free money coming to me and decided to utilize it.

Well, if this is the case, could you go MTM?

 

[usctrojans31]

I said it is less of an issue, not no issue I want to stay remotely on budget and not blow all of my free money on clothing and save most of it.

I had always planned on going Black Label, as I mentioned it fits me perfectly OTR, including a flush back and sleeve length. I was just thrown a curveball when seeing the 1220 for the first time in person and seeing the construction. FWIW, one can typically find the 1220 on ebay for around $800 per suit, which I find to be a good/acceptable price point.

 

[S. Able]

Fit, fit, fit! Go with the RLBL. If the Oxxford doesn't fit the way you want it to, you will likely be disappointed, at least to some degree (notwithstanding the excellent construction). Truth be told, the differences in construction are probably not as pronounced as you think they are. The regular Oxxford line is a different story.

 

[Knowledge is King]

Why are you limiting yourself to just RLBL and Oxxford 1220? You're goint to be in Milan for the next four months? Why not look around in in Italy?

 

[usctrojans31]

S - that was my plan all along, but the 1220 threw a wrench into my plans. I have never had a suit fit me as well as RLBL does as I am a goofy shape. I have pretty small shoulders and a fairly small frame and require a 32" BOC as written above. The construction is obviously underneath standard Oxxford, but I put it right on par with Belvest.

Knowledge - I will naturally look there, but I have bad luck with a lot of cuts. Right now, the RLBL Anthony is my favorite go-to suit that I have seen. It is slim, but not fashiony slim, and I should be able to get a very long time out of both of them.

 

[Klobber]

Oxxford better construction than RLBL, but RLBL more contemporary styled with slimmer fit. In these cases, would put fit and style as suits your physique above any quality related perks. Personally, I would go RLBL, for others it would be Oxxford. Show us some pictures, and we may assist you further.

 

[S. Able]

As I understand it, Oxxford does not hand pad the lapels and collars of the 1221 line. This is one of the reasons that it sells for less. If you take away the hand padded lapels and collars, an Oxxford coat starts to look more like the other high-end RTW/MTM makers. From what I have seen, the 1221 is still VERY well made, it just doesn't share the comparative advantages in construction (for lack of a better term) with the mainline. Because Caruso makes a very nice garment the differences in construction are really not that great IMHO. So I guess what I am trying to say is that the reason for picking the 1221 over the RLBL should be that you like they way it looks on you better, or you like the fabric/color better or you want to support American makers....yadda.

I have this dinner jacket with as much hand work as I could have asked for (hand padded lapels and collar, shoulder seem, hand set sleeves, all button holes (including the button-fly trousers) etc.). It even has midnight grosgrain lapels. At any rate, it really doesn't fit me as well as I would like it to and doesn't look all that great on me. As a result, it doesn't get worn all that much and I cringe at most of my wedding photos. I would trade in the hand work for a better fitting jacket quick than you can say Jack Robbins. Such is life I guess.

 

[Harold falcon]

I'd buy Oxxford first for myself, but if the RL fits you better than it is the only reasonable choice.