*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread ***

[sipang]

The show felt a bit disjointed and lacked cohesiveness but other than that I think it's pretty consistent with what Damir has been doing since FW10 (or maybe even SS10) when he started introducing more voluminous silhouettes and eased off on the drapey-drapey stuff. The ovoid shape and eastern influences are still there, some of the waist accessories are unfortunate though. I feel Damir's volume are more rigid and heavy whereas Yohji is all about fluidity, it seems almost sculptural at times. There are definitely some 80s vibes here (the more understated kind), which is not surprising given Doma's interest in Miyake, Armani etc... and his close relationship with the magazine Encens (Doma's stylist, Samuel Drira is co-founder and editor of the magazine) which is pushing that late 70s early 80s aesthetic (Matthew Ames, Christophe Lemaire etc)



[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[pickpackpockpuck]



Pretty much every high-end brand turned away from heavy branding a while ago, we aren't in the 90s. BV sells to Middle-Easterners/Chinese/Cultural lepers like LV (which still has some branding).

I probably wasn't clear. The piece (not my opinion, as I don't really have one on trends in high-end bags) was talking about how Maier did that when he took over at BV at beginning of 2000s, not saying BV has minimal branding compared to other brands today.

edit: also, think sipang hit the nail on the head regarding the difference in yohji's volume and damir's. their fabric choices (from little I've seen anyway) seem to really make that clear.

 

[snowmanxl]

Kris Van Assche ss13.
Really liked the tonal suits with techy jackets worn on top. Last look i posted is a favourite of mine
Didnt like the denim or the hats

 

[KingJulien]

The pants looked pretty nice but everything else is really blah. Is it me or does it seem like a pretty empty collection? I know, I'm not his biggest fan or anything, but it's like a few color blocked shirts, some shorts, a couple generic-looking tech jackets and that's it.

 

[hoozah]

shoes look cool

 

[snowmanxl]



The pants looked pretty nice but everything else is really blah.  Is it me or does it seem like a pretty empty collection? I know, I'm not his biggest fan or anything, but it's like a few color blocked shirts, some shorts, a couple generic-looking tech jackets and that's it.

Yeah it was a bit plain compared to other ss seasons but at the same time it's cleaner than previous seasons. By that I mean that the silhouettes are slimmer and it's very monotone.

Much better than dh lol (sorry kris )

 

[Lionheart Biker]

Was gonna post the same thing about DH. Though his own line´s show wasn´t impressive, there were a lot of elements that I dug. The shirts with the X lines across, the burgundy (?) jackets, some tees and suits. But DH bored the hell out of me... and those lapels

 

[northmenswear]

Dries, KVA, Jil, Raf and Marni. I don't bother paying attention to the other designers.

 

[the shah]



The show felt a bit disjointed and lacked cohesiveness but other than that I think it's pretty consistent with what Damir has been doing since FW10 (or maybe even SS10) when he started introducing more voluminous silhouettes and eased off on the drapey-drapey stuff. The ovoid shape and eastern influences are still there, some of the waist accessories are unfortunate though. I feel Damir's volume are more rigid and heavy whereas Yohji is all about fluidity, it seems almost sculptural at times. There are definitely some 80s vibes here (the more understated kind), which is not surprising given Doma's interest in Miyake, Armani etc... and his close relationship with the magazine Encens (Doma's stylist, Samuel Drira is co-founder and editor of the magazine) which is pushing that late 70s early 80s aesthetic (Matthew Ames, Christophe Lemaire etc)

RIP

etc...

 

[sipang]

yeah but Re$ort

 

[brad-t]

is it bad that i kinda like that damir resort collection? it's probably intellectually vacant but i like how it looks, at least.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

hah, saw that resort stuff. I think it's kinda awful. I guess it looks alright, but it seems so watered down and generic compared his other work. It could be the best collection Zara ever released though.

I haven't given up on Damir. I don't expect everything a designer puts out to be outstanding (is there anyone that's never put out something subpar?), and I'm curious to see what direction he goes in.

 

[sipang]

People are just mad he started using colors and shiny fabrics

 

[the shah]

it's not the colors and shininess , i quite like color and recall he had almost an entire collection made up of different shades of reds (woooo a whole color!)
it's just the fabrics themselves, i can't believe some of this recycled garbage bags he's using to make jackets and knits nowadays but the earlier stuff i've handled like the wool trousers i have are so incredibly lightweight and soft you can enjoy them.

i'm staring to think this whole luxe business is becoming an obsession. he's broken through, now putting out more and more accessories footwear and scents $DamirDoma$ is gonna be around if he keeps this up

hah, saw that resort stuff. I think it's kinda awful. I guess it looks alright, but it seems so watered down and generic compared his other work. It could be the best collection Zara ever released though.

I haven't given up on Damir. I don't expect everything a designer puts out to be outstanding (is there anyone that's never put out something subpar?), and I'm curious to see what direction he goes in.

exact

the future direction is what may save him because since past year and half is been trash

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Here's the whole Tillman Lauterbach collection.

David Bowie’s ‘Andy Warhol’ from 1971 on the speakers spelled out the muse for Tillmann Lauterbach’s much-welcomed return to the catwalk, which opened Paris Fashion Week yesterday afternoon. But it might as well have been Bowie’s ‘China Girl’ scoring the show, for there was little doubt that the German designer had looked to China – his home for the past three years – for inspiration for his grand retour à la maison. He used Christopher Wakos’ 1982 documentary following Warhol on a visit to China to merge the two, and with much triumph. The result was a stunning exercise in the restructuring of the straight-lined, clean-cut traditional Chinese men’s costume, which incorporated elements of Warhol’s intellectual uniform. “The American wardrobe is so casual and completely wearable, and the Chinese wardrobe has all this tradition in it. I tried to fuse the two together,” Lauterbach told i-D backstage. A predominantly Asian cast paraded a string of utilitarian, often boxy silhouettes, which hinted at Lauterbach’s third SS13 component, the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century – no doubt a nod to China’s current position as a country in explosive development. “I wanted to do something contemporary Chinese, because I think what people see of China here in Europe is not really what’s happening in China. I wanted to make it understandable,” Lauterbach noted.
http://i-donline.com/2012/06/tillmann-lauterbach-paris-270612/