Need help planning AE shoe wardrobe

[bmessick]

I have decided to toss all my old crappy shoes and replace them with Allen Edmonds. I went to the store to get sized and have researched all the models. I'm creating a wish list and then will proceed to purchase as I find decent deals. I live in Southern California and work in the software industry. The office environment is very casual and I am looking to dress up nice jeans (Hugo Boss, AJ) and occasionally dress slacks--with long sleeve button down shirts. Sport coats don't fit the environment even though I'm in management. With these considerations, I need most of my shoes to work in a casual to business casual settings.

Here is what I'm thinking so far:

1. Strands, Bourbon
2. Strands, Walnut
3. McAllister, Merlot
4. Fifth Ave., Black

My logic: The Strands, Bourbon will be the workhorse shoe. It has strong character while not being overly ostentatious. I debated on getting two sets of Strands, but I felt the colors were different enough. The Strands, Walnut is probably my favorite color but I don't want to over-do it and so thinking this would be a once-a-week type of shoe. On the McAllister, Merlot I'd use it when wearing darker colors...again probably a once-a-week shoe. While I felt the McAllister was a bit busy for me, the darker Merlot colors seems to tone that down. The Fifth Ave., Black would be the dress-up shoe. Since I'll rarely wear a suit or sport coat, I figured I should step down one notch from Park Ave.

I know the first 3 shoes are all very similar in style. However, there are many weeks where I will wear jeans every single day. Do I have too much broguing going on? Should I throw a boot in there? Would love some thoughts on what I should replace or perhaps add to this list. Want to keep it at about 5 max.

 

[jrd617]

Bringing back this award from circa 2009

 

[jrd617]

You might also try Herring and Meermin.

Better lasts, similar quality

 

[Fred G. Unn]

If you are wearing jeans every day, you need to be looking at bluchers, not balmorals. You just listed 4 balmorals, all fine with suits, but not really appropriate with jeans. If you really want AEs you should be looking at their bluchers like the Kenilworth, Larchmont, MacNeil, Williams, Hancock, etc.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]



If you are wearing jeans every day, you need to be looking at bluchers, not balmorals. You just listed 4 balmorals, all fine with suits, but not really appropriate with jeans. If you really want AEs you should be looking at their bluchers like the Kenilworth, Larchmont, MacNeil, Williams, Hancock, etc.

What he said, and look at their loafer offerings as well...

 

[bmessick]

I appreciate the feedback and will consider adding a pair of bluchers. I was planning on wearing the balmorals with dark blue slim-fit jeans, a nice belt, and button-up shirt. Do you still think the Strand and McAllister are too formal for this? Besides the tradition of not wearing balmorals with jeans, what is the concern on how it will look? It seems that high-end jeans fit better and are using more elegant fabrics than perhaps when these guidelines were set way back when. Without trying to be a hipster, does it really clash that much or leave a bad impression to dress-up the feet in casual wear?

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

In the real world, it won't matter. If you really like those models, then simply buy and enjoy. I'm sure your jean outfits will look fine to anyone outside of SF. On this website we are a sartorially staunch bunch, so out tastes are more classic than contemporary.

So unless you are looking to change or evolve your style, you should be pleased with your shoe choices and run. AEs are well made shoes, and should serve you well with care...

 

[gringodaddy]

^^^ generally agree except I'd swap out the black stitch caps for ptb's. Ever seen a guy in jeans and black cap toes and thought it looked good?

 

[bmessick]

I totally agree on not wearing the black cap toe with jeans. I had just thrown it in there for the future funeral or very formal event. But good call on going with some PTB's. Perhaps I'll switch out the Fifth Ave. for some Kenilworth Derby's. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[Ironist]

My first two nice shoes were walnut strands and merlot mcallisters. If you must get ae get the strands. Almost universally accepted in everyone's wardrobe. It's good with khakis and light grey slacks. I don't really care for my mcallisters now. Burgundy shoes is a must but there are better burgundies in other brands. But I'd probably say they are two of the better ae styles. If you are going jeans and getting 5 pairs then get a pair of shoes dedicated to jeans instead of 5 shoes you can wear with everything. I'd get some meermin monkstraps or some loafers. Really, it sounds like loafers and monks are better for what you want. Get a brown captoe for when you dress up and then you are all set. Suede is nice too. Don't go all out ae though. You may find your tastes evolving after your first pair so do it slowly. Meet in and kent wang are good value.

 

[Ecstasy]

Get a pair from the independence collection. For some reason they barely crease for me, and are a hell lot more comfortable.

 

[Fred G. Unn]

The problem with balmorals with jeans is the clash of formality. Bals are more formal, and jeans no matter how nice, are not. JS is right that outside of SF most people aren't going to care, but IMO if you're starting over from scratch you might as well do it right.

You are right that you need a black cap toe in your wardrobe so I'd keep the PA, although there are many other options available that I prefer. The PA has a stubby cap and I am not a fan of the 6-eyelets. Check out this thread for some other possibilities: http://www.styleforum.net/t/362365/the-quintessential-dress-shoe-black-cap-toe-oxford/0_30

A brown wingtip blucher is one of the most versatile shoes IMO. You can dress it up with suits, dress it down with jeans, it can go with virtually anything. My fave is the RL Marlow (by C&J) but the AE Williams longwing looks pretty good. MacNeil in burgundy shell is a good option too.

A plain toe blucher is also very versatile, at least on the casual end of the spectrum which is where you'll mostly be wearing them. I'd add something like the Kenilworth in bourbon. A suede chukka is another classic that looks great with jeans too, so I'd add something like the Mojave for a 4th pair. How's this for a versatile 4 shoe AE wardrobe, with an emphasis on shoes wearable with jeans?

 

[RogerP]

I would not wear balmorals with jeans.

 

[gringodaddy]

Unless you wear a suit regularly I disagree about the versatility of any black captoe. a sleek highly polished black derby with a suit is less jarring to most eyes compared to a captoe with jeans. Imo anyway

 

[bmessick]

Thanks Fred for the detailed response and I appreciate all the opinions. I did receive my first pair of AE's (Strands in Bourbon) and have been wearing them jeans and a dress shirt and getting lots of compliments. I'm going to see how the fit goes and take my time building up the collection. The that I decided to focus on AE is because of their width choices and the fact that I've gotten a proper fitting. Plus I live 10 minutes from the South Coast Plaza store which makes it convenient. So here is my new wish list.

1. Strands, Bourbon (done)
2. Strands, Walnut
3. Plain-toe blucher or monk strap (I'm liking Paul Evans...http://www.paulevansny.com/collections/monk-straps/products/single-monk-strap)
4. Chukka (need to do more research)
6. Fifth Ave or PA