My Ideal Neapolitan Jacket - Gazman’s

[Alan Bee]

Have you considered studying comedy the way you study clothes? Comedic Arts was a popular trade publication in the 1930s and it has many timeless jokes.

You know me too well Derek, don’t you? I might just take you up on that ?

Alan

 

[FlyingHorker]

I recently got one of these and I agree, the cut and style are not far off from what we’re talking about and it looks good on me, but I was disappointed in the feel of the actual construction, very cheap/stiff feeling canvas.

Hmm, I didn't pay much attention to the canvas feel when trying them on in person. I'll have to do that when I order a jacket.

 

[aristoi bcn]

That's the ideal, but in practice, I find it's not always so easy to get coat that looks like that in real life. Including from some of the tailors listed in this thread. I think you just have to try a tailor and see how they work for you -- and if that silhouette is even possible on your body type.

Since Neapolitan tailoring is very soft, it's not always possible to create that silhouette if you don't have a certain figure. And since Neapolitan tailors often rely on more on the fitting process, rather than the pattern drafting process, one customer's experience may not be as indicative of another person's experience with the same tailor.

I find coat-to-coat differences vary more among Italian tailors than English tailors because they're essentially just sketching out something and pinning it on you, whereas English tailoring is more structured both in terms of its construction and production process.

Fully agree disregard the note about the English tailors as I have had no experience with them.

The body type of each one will make a difference but there will be some features that will prevail and make that no matter which tailor cuts the jacket, you will know that it is a neapolitan jacket. Sometimes there's an extended shoulder, sometimes not. Usually there'll be front darts, but not always. Lapels will be wide and straight as default but not with Rubinacci (these come with belly).
And yes, almost every jacket done in a different order will come differently even from the same tailor, which I find quite frustrating.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Of course if you are short and overweight you will look very different to gazman in a neapolitan jacket but I think the op has already this into account.