My Ideal Neapolitan Jacket - Gazman’s

[dieworkwear]

any neapolitan tailor cuts in that style.

That's the ideal, but in practice, I find it's not always so easy to get coat that looks like that in real life. Including from some of the tailors listed in this thread. I think you just have to try a tailor and see how they work for you -- and if that silhouette is even possible on your body type.

Since Neapolitan tailoring is very soft, it's not always possible to create that silhouette if you don't have a certain figure. And since Neapolitan tailors often rely on more on the fitting process, rather than the pattern drafting process, one customer's experience may not be as indicative of another person's experience with the same tailor.

I find coat-to-coat differences vary more among Italian tailors than English tailors because they're essentially just sketching out something and pinning it on you, whereas English tailoring is more structured both in terms of its construction and production process.

 

[usctrojans31]

Check out Sartoria Guerra. Seems a similar cut to my eye. But as others have said, Gazman has an easy to fit frame.

 

[Alan Bee]

Thanks for the replies. I've just noticed a lot of the neapolitan examples posted dont tend to have extended shoulders, but I much prefer the ones that do. I think Formosa is pretty much what I'm looking for, but more than anything I just wanted to give Gazman props as having a great looking outfit. FWIW, I do have an athletic figure and am in pretty goodshape, so not too worried about that @dieworkwear

@birdlives80

Why would you need to extend your shoulders if you are indeed athletically built? If you truly have an athletic build with a steep drop, you will understand the nightmare that is tailoring to hide, or shall I say balance, your broad shoulders with the rest of your outfit from top to bottom.

This means cutting the shoulders (as close as possible" to its natural line, cutting a more generous coat waist to disguise the drop, and a large skirt to maintain congruity with the shoulders. If you have a deep "small of the back" created by a combination of muscular back and strong glutes, that means you cannot have that lovely S-Curve because your vents will surely flare. So again, the waist has to be cut loose considerable to allow the garment to fall gracefully at the vents.

It also often means wearing very full cut trousers to maintain the line and silhouette, your broad shoulders having set the tone at the top.

In my opinion, that jacket doesn't flatter @gazman70k as well as it could. It follows the body too closely hence a "Christmas Tree" silhouette. It is also a bit short to my eyes with a too high button stance. The trousers as well, too slim. I just feel like the entire silhouette is all over the place ....

This is coming from someone who has a very similar (if not more extreme) drop.

Alan Bee

 

[FlyingHorker]

Looks similiar to Spier & Mackay's OTR neapolitan cut

 

[FlyingHorker]

@birdlives80

Why would you need to extend your shoulders if you are indeed athletically built? If you truly have an athletic build with a steep drop, you will understand the nightmare that is tailoring to hide, or shall I say balance, your broad shoulders with the rest of your outfit from top to bottom.

This means cutting the shoulders (as close as possible" to its natural line, cutting a more generous coat waist to disguise the drop, and a large skirt to maintain congruity with the shoulders. If you have a deep "small of the back" created by a combination of muscular back and strong glutes, that means you cannot have that lovely S-Curve because your vents will surely flare. So again, the waist has to be cut loose considerable to allow the garment to fall gracefully at the vents.

It also often means wearing very full cut trousers to maintain the line and silhouette, your broad shoulders having set the tone at the top.

In my opinion, that jacket doesn't flatter @gazman70k as well as it could. It follows the body too closely hence a "Christmas Tree" silhouette. It is also a bit short to my eyes with a too high button stance. The trousers as well, too slim. I just feel like the entire silhouette is all over the place ....

This is coming from someone who has a very similar (if not more extreme) drop.

Alan Bee

I don't get the Christmas Tree silhouette. If by that, you mean an A-line silhouette, it doesn't look anything like that.

While the button stance could be lower, it looks quite balanced as is with the open quarters. The length reaches well past the fork of his crotch.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think Gaz consistently looks great. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Alan Bee]

I think Gaz consistently looks great. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

@dieworkwear

I don’t know him and if you say so, I’m quite sure he does. But the reference point is this particular outfit which I’m my opinion could be significantly improved upon by a slightly different cut and composition.

Alan Bee

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear

I don’t know him and if you say so, I’m quite sure he does. But the reference point is this particular outfit which I’m my opinion could be significantly improved upon by a slightly different cut and composition.

Alan Bee

Just FYI, when you quote someone, you don't have to @ them. Doing so sends them two notifications, instead of one.

 

[birdlives80]

@birdlives80

Why would you need to extend your shoulders if you are indeed athletically built? If you truly have an athletic build with a steep drop, you will understand the nightmare that is tailoring to hide, or shall I say balance, your broad shoulders with the rest of your outfit from top to bottom.

This means cutting the shoulders (as close as possible" to its natural line, cutting a more generous coat waist to disguise the drop, and a large skirt to maintain congruity with the shoulders. If you have a deep "small of the back" created by a combination of muscular back and strong glutes, that means you cannot have that lovely S-Curve because your vents will surely flare. So again, the waist has to be cut loose considerable to allow the garment to fall gracefully at the vents.

It also often means wearing very full cut trousers to maintain the line and silhouette, your broad shoulders having set the tone at the top.

In my opinion, that jacket doesn't flatter @gazman70k as well as it could. It follows the body too closely hence a "Christmas Tree" silhouette. It is also a bit short to my eyes with a too high button stance. The trousers as well, too slim. I just feel like the entire silhouette is all over the place ....

This is coming from someone who has a very similar (if not more extreme) drop.

Alan Bee

I disagree on all points. If anything his silhouette is an inverted V, and to call that a high buttoning point is insane to me. But I would just direct you to this thread and co-sign Derek’s argument: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/extended-shoulder-supremacy.646078/

 

[birdlives80]

Looks similiar to Spier & Mackay's OTR neapolitan cut

I recently got one of these and I agree, the cut and style are not far off from what we’re talking about and it looks good on me, but I was disappointed in the feel of the actual construction, very cheap/stiff feeling canvas.

 

[Alan Bee]

I disagree on all points. If anything his silhouette is an inverted V, and to call that a high buttoning point is insane to me. But I would just direct you to this thread and co-sign Derek’s argument: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/extended-shoulder-supremacy.646078/

You call that silhouette an inverted V? Otherwise a pear-shape? Ok, here's where we end the debate ..

You disagree with ALL points without even articulating what it is you disagree with. I don't need to read through Dereks thread. I have a 14 inch drop and I've been tailoring bespoke clothing for a while, often with some silhouette type errors at my own expense. I've learned to use my own eyes (and not some hypothetical thread on StyleForum) what works for an athletic V-Shaped fellow ...

Alan Bee

 

[birdlives80]

You call that silhouette an inverted V? Otherwise a pear-shape? Ok, here's where we end the debate ..

You disagree with ALL points without even articulating what it is you disagree with. I don't need to read through Dereks thread. I have a 14 inch drop and I've been tailoring bespoke clothing for a while, often with some silhouette type errors at my own expense. I've learned to use my own eyes (and not some hypothetical thread on StyleForum) what works for an athletic V-Shaped fellow ...

Alan Bee

I meant inverted triangle. And it’s not hypothetical, it has lots of examples to illustrate the point.

 

[dieworkwear]

You call that silhouette an inverted V? Otherwise a pear-shape? Ok, here's where we end the debate ..

You disagree with ALL points without even articulating what it is you disagree with. I don't need to read through Dereks thread. I have a 14 inch drop and I've been tailoring bespoke clothing for a while, often with some silhouette type errors at my own expense. I've learned to use my own eyes (and not some hypothetical thread on StyleForum) what works for an athletic V-Shaped fellow ...

Alan Bee

Man, you are just like Foo, but without any of the fun parts.

 

[Alan Bee]

Man, you are just like Foo, but without any of the fun parts.

Derek, My twin brother is the comedian. Clearly, those genes skipped me completely ....

 

[dieworkwear]

Derek, My twin brother is the comedian. Clearly, those genes skipped me completely ....

Have you considered studying comedy the way you study clothes? Comedic Arts was a popular trade publication in the 1930s and it has many timeless jokes.