MTO vs MTM Tuxedo

[poorsod]

I just want to make a note to the OP that the kind of fabrics the forum likes are not the most soft, silky and luxurious. Instead, we prefer fabrics that have body, drape well, hold the crease and get better with age. However they tend then to have a rougher hand.

If you require soft, silky and luxurious feeling fabric you might want to look elsewhere.

 

[Moustache Mike]

I just want to make a note to the OP that the kind of fabrics the forum likes are not the most soft, silky and luxurious. Instead, we prefer fabrics that have body, drape well, hold the crease and get better with age. However they tend then to have a rougher hand.

If you require soft, silky and luxurious feeling fabric you might want to look elsewhere.

I have a Jack Victor suit made from Super 100's wool, the fabric and its weave have a very rough texture is there is nothing soft about it. I don't want a 200's super silky fabric, something that has body and drapes well, as well as holding a crease is important to me... I just don't want my Tux to have the same kind of rough feeling to it as my suits.

I may be new to all this, but I'm sure there has to be a happy compromise between Drape/Body and Soft/Luxurious

Are implying that the 8810 is a rough looking and feeling fabric ?

 

[TheFoo]

8810 is not rough looking or feeling. Poorsod is giving you a general disclaimer. Mohair imparts a very dry, crisp finish.

 

[poorsod]

I was giving a disclaimer because I was hoping to establish your expectations. When mentioned your interest in Super #'s I got the impression that you thought that the higher the Super # the better the cloth and the smoother the fabric the better the cloth. After all, these days Super # cloths are being marketed as the higher the number, the better the cloth. The super # is only 1 dimension in describing the wool. Here is a video describing other aspects such as length, strength, crimp, and luster and why they are important.

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[TheFoo]

This is too much information! He doesn't have time to learn all this before he has to order the cloth. I was trying to make it stupid simple.

 

[poorsod]

I don't know about you but when I was first starting out in bespoke I had the impression that softer material was intrinsically better and that the suit's shape and performance could be sorted out with tailoring. If my first bespoke suit turned out coarser to touch than readily available S120-150 RTW, I would wonder if I had been cheated or lied to. My first bespoke suit was a S150's Charles Clayton from Chan. It still feels great but doesn't look nearly as nice as some of my other suits.

 

[TheFoo]

Somewhat similar story on my end. When I first got into tailored clothes, I didn't know much about cloth. So, it was hard for me to guage anything without reference to RTW. But that's exactly why I'm trying to guide the OP to a decision he won't later regret.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Great job, Foo. This is the best participation that I've ever saw from you in a thread, polite and instructive. I'm learning a lot from the informations shared here.

 

[Moustache Mike]

8810 is NOT in the new Smith Woollen Formal Book that WW Chan recently replaced their older book with, that is the reason why it was not suggested. They are checking to see if the 8810 is still being made, and if they can order it. The next hurdle is seeing if a source for Midnight Grosgrain Silk can be tracked down...

( I'm shooting for Midnight Blue Grosgrain Lapel facings and bowtie, don't care if folks think its crazy... I've seen it before and it's 100% sharper than the standard black on blue look imho )

 

[marcodalondra]



8810 is NOT in the new Smith Woollen Formal Book that WW Chan recently replaced their older book with, that is the reason why it was not suggested.  They are checking to see if the 8810 is still being made, and if they can order it.  The next hurdle is seeing if a source for Midnight Grosgrain Silk can be tracked down...

( I'm shooting for Midnight Blue Grosgrain Lapel facings and bowtie, don't care if folks think its crazy... I've seen it before and it's 100% sharper than the standard black on blue look imho )

I selected and bought my 8811 and seen all the others fabric in Smith formal book @ Smith HO location, very recently. I suspect WW Chan has an edited book of fabric they wish to order. I have seen tailors with such books