Moving to London. How to adjust wardrobe.

[samus]

I spent the summer at a large British law firm, and brown shoes were not uncommon. Granted, I worked mostly with other Americans, but most of them had been in the UK for many years. My only client meetings were with continentals though, so maybe it'd be different with British clients around. I'll find out in 6 months.

 

[comrade]

Spats. You'll need several pair.

 

[FidelCashflow]

if black shoes are the law... why do all the jermyn street shoemakers have at least 50% of their collection in brown?

 

[VKK3450]

Originally Posted by R-H

Sincere question:

If non-black dress shoes are not acceptable for UK business wear, why do all the great English shoe makers sell brown/tan/burgandy/etc shoes?

Who wears these shoes?

People who dont live in London or don't work in conservative dress banks (or different functions in banks), weekends, etc...

K

 

[cdmoore1855]

599

HK is a lot less formal than London, mainly due to the weather being considerably warmer (except today is 8c and thats damn cold for HK), if you worked for the London law firms here you may be expected to wear black shoes but in many Finance jobs here people wear beige or navy trousers and brown shoes. Suits and jackets are not always worn either, it all depends upon the firm you work for. Where I work I can wear whatever I want, many staff wear jeans including the boss. We only dress up for meetings and then I would almost always wear brown shoes. I find black shoes boring and only use them for the most conservative of clients or black tie events.

 

[Ich_Dien]

Originally Posted by FidelCashflow

if black shoes are the law... why do all the jermyn street shoemakers have at least 50% of their collection in brown?

Something as absurd as 80% of all shoes made by EG, JL, Tricker's and C&J are for the export market where people don't care for such rules.

 

[Schorsch]

Don't do it. Don't try to be british, you'll only end up looking like you're...well, trying to be british. Be the well-dressed American. In fact, spend the money here at Brooks or J. Press, and go full trad.

 

[UserNameToronto]

Originally Posted by Schorsch

Don't do it. Don't try to be british, you'll only end up looking like you're...well, trying to be british. Be the well-dressed American. In fact, spend the money here at Brooks or J. Press, and go full trad.

Not bad advice to a New Yorker, but you really need to refer to my username and OP.

I'm also young/junior enough that really standing out it not always a positive quality.

When in Rome...

 

[Jay Gatsby]

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Originally Posted by Jay Gatsby

see - even the chimney-sweeps wear black shoes

 

[romafan]

Pick one:
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Attachment 39161

 

[MikeB]

In what area will you be working?

Traders dress very differently to advisory / corporate brokers, for instance.

Lawyers also dress differently, in certain subtle respects.

If you will be relatively junior (around VP level, judging by your age?) and working on the advisory side (IBD) then I would suggest, as per some of the above suggestions:

Suits

Some dark, plain suits (navy blue, charcoal grey). Leave the pin stripes to the traders, unless very subtle.

Single breasted, two or three button.

For cheap, disposable buys, TM Lewin or Charles Tyrwhitt, as recommended above.

Your bank probably has a discount code, and you should certainly not pay more than around £150-250 a suit. The assistant can also send the suits off for alterations, if necessary.

Roderick Charles do some cheap(ish) suits when on sale (around £250) and they have adjusters on the trousers as opposed to belt loops. Mine fitted poorly when they came back from being altered, however, and I gave up... they are sat in my wardrobe and have barely been worn. Lesson learnt - if it doesn't fit well the first time, insist that they send it back for further adjustments.

A lot of the guys also get MTM from the various travelling tailors who court bankers, although I'm not convinced it is worth it (buy cheap, buy twice, as they say), nor is the cost within your budget.

Shirts

I would get a selection of light, plain shirts. White, pale blue, pale pink.

Go for french cuffs. Collar-wise, I like a spread collar, but others prefer a 'Prince of Wales'. The key is to avoid the pointy, US style collared shirts.

Again, you will be safe with most of the options that you can pick up cheaply at TM Lewin or Tyrwhitt (pay around £100 for 4 - do NOT pay full price).

Lewin and Tyrwhitt also have a slim fit range which works well, depending on your body shape, plus a variety of collar / cuff sizes.

Some of the guys go to Pink, but you're paying around £80 a shirt from there, and I'm not convinced it is worth it as a junior banker.

Some subtle striped / checked shirts can also work well, but nothing too gawdy. DEFINITELY no contrasting collars / cuffs until you reach at least board level (and even then...)

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/product.aspx/!31439 = NO! (there's a reason it's on discount)

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/product.asp...miFitted!25312 = Acceptable

Shoes

I would echo the above, regarding black shoes only.

I can tell you for a fact that, if you come to the office on a Monday - Thursday in a suit and in brown shoes, people will either tease you to your face if they respect you enough, or comments will be made behind your back.

Maybe less amongst the juniors, but I have certainly been talking with a couple of MDs who passed comment on a certain individual turning up to meetings in scruffy brown shoes. The person in question was later chopped, as part of wider cuts. Not necessarily a direct correlation, but your footwear will definitely cause people to pass judgement on you (rightly or wrongly).

Seriously, it may sound petty, but why put yourself in the spotlight for something like that?

I distinctly remember going for drinks with my current team as part of the 'milk round', and several of the MDs taking subtle glances at my footwear...

At the very least, make sure that your shoes are properly polished. Most banks have a shoe shiner who will come round and do it for you for a couple of quid, if you cannot be bothered.

Typical fare is black oxfords, although some guys wear monks or loafers (and not just Americans...).

Safest bet is lace up, plain black oxfords.

If you are buying on the cheap then TM Lewin and CT do reasonable shoes for around £100. Can't say I'm overly impressed by mine, but they do the job.

Crockett & Jones if you can afford it (over Church's... personal preference). Mine have served me well.

Others can perhaps advise you better in terms of brands, but at least the above will give you a guide as to tyle.

Personally, I would avoid pointed or squared off toes, although you will see loads of people wearing them.

Socks

Considered a sin by some, plain black socks are the easiest to obtain on the cheap. You can literally buy a couple of weeks' worth for a fiver, and get change back. No one will comment on black socks.

Avoid anything gaudy if you don't want comments. I've certainly received a few in the past!

Ties

As mentioned above, if you fancy splashing out then Hermes prints are still in vogue.

I would avoid any striped / regimental ties.

Plain ties can work well (I have a burgundy tie from TM Lewin that cost about £20 and has served me well).

For a British touch, a dark blue tie with pink spots.

Knot-wise, you'll see a whole range.

I tend to go for a smaller knot (4-in-hand or half windsor), with a dimple. People do not seem that concerned with knots, though.

In fact, many people don't wear ties to the office, only to meetings.

Pocket squares / braces (suspenders)

Do not bother. You will come across as a flashy ponce.

Cufflinks

No real trends, here.

I would go for several pairs that you can mix and match throughout the week.

As a staple, if you can afford it, get yourself a pair of subtle sterling silver links, preferably avoiding the 'submarine' style fastening... a plain pair connected, with both sides connected by a chain, will do the job.

Although others may disagree, I think that the very cheap fabric 'ball' links are acceptable. I wouldn't wear them myself, but nor would I look down on someone who did, especially if quite junior.

Overcoat

You'll see all types, from macs to Barbours to the typical cashmere overcoats.

If you're on a budget, I would go for a cheap cashmere mix in dark grey or blue from Lewin / CT.

Single breasted.

Again, others may be able to offer better advice in this department.

Case

Avoid a briefcase if you are quite junior. A satchel will do the job... I tend to use a black fabric 'laptop-style' bag without a shoulder strap, and have never had any comments.

Others use a typical satchel (leather, shoulder strap).

Some of the more senior guys have tan briefcases (they seem to avoid black for the most part, for some reason). The more battered the better, by the look of things!



Right, I think that's me done. Best of luck!

 

[MikeB]

I forgot to mention.

NO button-down collars with ties. Or at all in the office, unless it's a Friday and you're wearing jeans / chinos.

 

[fwiffo]

I did the same as the OP before and worked in the square mile (financial services). Hardly saw any black shoes except from Canucks. OCBDs basically singled you out as a yank (my company is American).

 

[599]

I was in Churches London yesterday and saw they have a new 'City Range'. They had a Hong Kong, London, Paris, New York, Tokyo model. All of which were black.

I found it amusing to stumble across such a range after reading this forum and going to the shop to buy some more black shoes for my HK trip.

I did not make a purchase, but liked the London and NY shoes from the range.

a little less than usual at £225 for each, as they are made with a brazilian leather - not european